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Helia-D Classic Moisturising Night Cream
Helia-D

Helia-D Classic Moisturising Night Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
Panthenol, Urea + 17 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Classic Moisturising Night Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: diglycerin, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol, urea

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.45–1.05%
Triticum vulgare germ oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).~0.9–1.35%
UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~1.2–1.9%
Helianthus annuus extractKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.7%
DiglycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.8%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.5–2.3%
LysineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.55%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.8–2.7%
PcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.15–0.5%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.2–3.2%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.35–0.85%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~3.2–4.8%
Hydrolyzed wheat proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten~0.15–0.65%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that softens the skin~1.1–1.6%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~2.8–4.2%
Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.15–0.6%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.1–0.4%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.1–0.4%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.55–1.25%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · Lysine, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 3 more
Moderate evidence

This product contains lysine. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

LysineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.55%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.8–2.7%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin~1.1–1.6%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.1–0.4%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.55–1.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Parfum, Limonene + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.8%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.3%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.5–2.3%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.55–1.25%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.4–0.9%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.8%est.
Hydrolyzed wheat proteinCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to glutenMedium~0.15–0.65%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.1–0.4%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.3%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.8–2.7%est.
Triticum vulgare germ oilA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).3/5~0.9–1.35%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~3.2–4.8%est.
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Alternatives
The closest match we found
Blue Light Defence Hydro Cream
endota spa Blue Light Defence Hydro Cream
Closest match64% match
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Peg-4 polyglyceryl-2 stearate~3.9–5.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Peg-4 polyglyceryl-2 stearate
Cetearyl alcohol~3.2–4.8%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Coco-caprylate/caprate~2.8–4.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Glycerin~2.2–3.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.8–2.7%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.5–2.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Urea~1.2–1.9%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil~1.1–1.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

An emollient that softens the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil
Triticum vulgare germ oil~0.9–1.35%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).

More about Triticum vulgare germ oil
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.55–1.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAntibacterialReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Panthenol~0.45–1.05%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Phenoxyethanol~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Tocopheryl acetate~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Propylene glycol~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Sodium pca~0.35–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Diglycerin~0.35–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Diglycerin
Helianthus tuberosus extract~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Helianthus tuberosus extract
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Parfum~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Helianthus annuus extract~0.2–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Helianthus annuus extract
Hydrolyzed wheat protein~0.15–0.65%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten

More about Hydrolyzed wheat protein
Sorbitol~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol
Lysine~0.15–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Lysine
Pca~0.15–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Pca
Allantoin~0.1–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Lactic acid~0.1–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Disodium edta~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Limonene~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Potassium sorbate~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Citral~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Citric acid~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ingredient list view

Water, Peg-4 polyglyceryl-2 stearate, Cetearyl alcohol, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Glycerin, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Urea, Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, Triticum vulgare germ oil, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopheryl acetate, Propylene glycol, Sodium pca, Diglycerin, Helianthus tuberosus extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Helianthus annuus extract, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Sorbitol, Lysine, Pca, Allantoin, Lactic acid, Disodium edta, Limonene, Potassium sorbate, Citral, Citric acid

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Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Helia-DClassic Moisturising Night CreamYOUR PRODUCTendota spaBlue Light Defence Hydro CreamBABORSkinovage Argan CreamMarudermHyaluronic Acid Moisturizer Face & Body Cream
Match—64%63%61%
Price———$21.99
Shared key ingredients—6 of 116 of 116 of 11
Key difference—DimethiconeNiacinamideNiacinamide
Irritancy High Medium Medium Low
Drying alcohol—— Contains drying alcohol —
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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Helia-D - Classic Moisturising Night Cream" works well for improving skin hydration The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Humectants in this product (panthenol, urea, diglycerin, glycerin and pca) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Helianthus annuus extract, triticum vulgare germ oil, butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride and cetearyl alcohol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This formulation also uses an effective concentration of panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) - about 0.45% - 1.05%. Panthenol helps strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and reduce inflammation in skin.

Irritation risk

We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 14 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  2. 2
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Topical urea in skincare: A reviewpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oilsmdpi.com
  5. 5
    Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
  6. 6
    Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
Helia-D Classic Moisturising Night Cream
Helia-DClassic Moisturising Night Cream
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