Helan Natural

Helan Natural Vanilla Oolong Silkening Cream

Name: Helan Natural - Vanilla Oolong Silkening Cream
Brand: Helan Natural

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing

Glycerin, Cetearyl alcohol + 9 more

Good evidence

What the product description says

“Vanilla Oolong Silkening Cream”

From product name

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": glycerin.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.1–3.7%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.5–1.9%

Cetyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability~0.45–0.7%

Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~2.3–2.9%

Hydrogenated vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.5%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~2–2.5%

Olus oil· EmollientEffect: LowAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~5.5–6.7%

Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~4.2–5.2%

Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.7–1%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

6 strong irritants: Parfum, Benzyl salicylate + 4 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~1.6–2%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.7%est.

Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

CoumarinA fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Alpha-isomethyl iononeA fragrance. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

Hexyl cinnamalA fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~2.3–2.9%est.

Sucrose polystearateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1–1.2%est.

Sodium stearoyl lactylateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.5–0.75%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.45–0.7%est.

Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.

Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.2–0.35%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

3 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.7–1%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.5–1.9%est.

Hydrogenated vegetable oilAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~1.2–1.5%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Olus oil~5.5–6.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Olus oil

Dicaprylyl carbonate~4.2–5.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate

Glycerin~3.1–3.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Olea europaea fruit oil~2.3–2.9%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil

Glyceryl stearate~2–2.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Parfum~1.6–2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Cetearyl alcohol~1.5–1.9%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Hydrogenated vegetable oil~1.2–1.5%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable oil

Sucrose polystearate~1–1.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sucrose polystearate

Tamarindus indica seed polysaccharide~0.7–1.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Tamarindus indica seed polysaccharide

Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.7–1%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Butter~0.55–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Butter

Euphorbia cerifera wax~0.65–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Euphorbia cerifera wax

Benzyl alcohol~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol

Xanthan gum~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Sodium stearoyl lactylate~0.5–0.75%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl lactylate

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Cetyl palmitate~0.45–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability

More about Cetyl palmitate

Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate

Tocopherol~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Benzoic acid~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid

Lecithin~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Sorbic acid~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid

Ascorbyl palmitate~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Citric acid~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Benzyl salicylate~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate

Coumarin~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritating

More about Coumarin

Alpha-isomethyl ionone~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Alpha-isomethyl ionone

Limonene~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Hexyl cinnamal~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritant

More about Hexyl cinnamal

Ingredient list view

Water, Olus oil, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Glycerin, Olea europaea fruit oil, Glyceryl stearate, Parfum, Cetearyl alcohol, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Sucrose polystearate, Tamarindus indica seed polysaccharide, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Butter, Euphorbia cerifera wax, Benzyl alcohol, Xanthan gum, Sodium stearoyl lactylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Cetyl palmitate, Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, Tocopherol, Benzoic acid, Lecithin, Tocopheryl acetate, Sorbic acid, Ascorbyl palmitate, Citric acid, Benzyl salicylate, Coumarin, Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Limonene, Hexyl cinnamal

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 4 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oilonlinelibrary.wiley.com
3
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu

Helan NaturalVanilla Oolong Silkening Cream

Buy at SmallFlower$24.00 Amazon

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Buy at SmallFlower$24.00 Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.