What's In My Jar
Helan Natural Ginkgo Biloba, Blackberry, and Butcher's Broom Ointment
Helan Natural

Helan Natural Ginkgo Biloba, Blackberry, and Butcher's Broom Ointment

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
15 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Working in combination, organic common bilberry water, sweet almond oil and butter, and Vitamin E protect capillaries and provide an emollient and nourishing layer to skin in need of improved circulation.”
Source: SmallFlower

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil.

Prunus amygdalus dulcis seedKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.5–1.9%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.4–1.7%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.1–3.8%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.5–0.7%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~2.4–3%
Hydrogenated vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.65%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~4.3–5.2%
Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.95–1.15%
Stearic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~1.2–1.5%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~1.7–2.1%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.4–0.6%
Glyceryl undecylenate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and helps preserve the product formulation~0.4–0.65%
Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.25–0.45%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 8 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (ginkgo biloba leaf extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Ginkgo biloba leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating~0.5–0.7%
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking~0.55–0.8%
Aesculus hippocastanum seed extractEffect: LowPlant extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating~0.6–0.95%
EscinEffect: LowA compound obtained from horse chestnut. It is claimed that this chemical can improve circulation, but there is no evidence available that it works in skin~0.55–0.85%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.4–0.6%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.25–0.45%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.1–0.15%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Mentha piperita oil
Medium risk
We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Mentha piperita oilUsed as a fragrance and can be irritatingHigh~0.6–0.95%est.
Aesculus hippocastanum seed extractPlant extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.6–0.95%est.
EscinA compound obtained from horse chestnut. It is claimed that this chemical can improve circulation, but there is no evidence available that it works in skinHigh~0.55–0.85%est.
Ginkgo biloba leaf extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.5–0.7%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.4–1.7%est.
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lackingMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Vitis vinifera leaf extract—Medium~0.55–0.8%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.4–0.6%est.
Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Glyceryl undecylenateHelps oil and water mix together and helps preserve the product formulationMedium~0.4–0.65%est.
Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenicMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.1–0.15%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
4 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.25–0.45%est.
Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.15–0.3%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~4.3–5.2%est.
Hydrogenated vegetable oilAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~0.35–0.65%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit water~10–13%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Vaccinium myrtillus fruit water
Cetearyl alcohol~4.3–5.2%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glycerin~3.1–3.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Coco-caprylate/caprate~2.4–3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Sorbitan stearate~1.9–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate
Dicaprylyl carbonate~1.7–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed~1.5–1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.4–1.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Stearic acid~1.2–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Palmitic acid~0.95–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Mentha piperita oil~0.6–0.95%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance and can be irritating

More about Mentha piperita oil
Aesculus hippocastanum seed extract~0.6–0.95%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Plant extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating

More about Aesculus hippocastanum seed extract
Escin~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A compound obtained from horse chestnut. It is claimed that this chemical can improve circulation, but there is no evidence available that it works in skin

More about Escin
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking

More about Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract
Ruscus aculeatus root extract~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ruscus aculeatus root extract
Vitis vinifera leaf extract~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
More about Vitis vinifera leaf extract
Ginkgo biloba leaf extract~0.5–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating

More about Ginkgo biloba leaf extract
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.5–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Xanthan gum~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Benzyl alcohol~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Tocopheryl acetate~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Hydrogenated vegetable oil~0.35–0.65%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable oil
Cetearyl glucoside~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside
Glyceryl undecylenate~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and helps preserve the product formulation

More about Glyceryl undecylenate
Glyceryl caprylate~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Maltodextrin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate
Lecithin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Butter~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Butter
Myristic acid~0.15–0.3%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic

More about Myristic acid
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Citric acid~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ingredient list view

Water, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit water, Cetearyl alcohol, Glycerin, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Sorbitan stearate, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Stearic acid, Palmitic acid, Mentha piperita oil, Aesculus hippocastanum seed extract, Escin, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract, Ruscus aculeatus root extract, Vitis vinifera leaf extract, Ginkgo biloba leaf extract, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Xanthan gum, Benzyl alcohol, Tocopheryl acetate, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Cetearyl glucoside, Glyceryl undecylenate, Glyceryl caprylate, Maltodextrin, Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Butter, Myristic acid, Ascorbyl palmitate, Citric acid

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 14 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  3. 3
    Contact dermatitis as an adverse reaction to some topically used European herbal medicinal products – part 1: Achillea millefolium–Curcuma longaonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  4. 4
    Lonicera caerulea and Vaccinium myrtillus fruit polyphenols protect HaCaT keratinocytes against UVB-induced phototoxic stress and DNA damagesciencedirect.com
  5. 5
    Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects. 2nd edition.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Safety Assessment of Ginkgo biloba-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
Helan Natural Ginkgo Biloba, Blackberry, and Butcher's Broom Ointment
Helan NaturalGinkgo Biloba, Blackberry, and Butcher's Broom Ointment
Buy at SmallFlower$19.95Amazon

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Buy at SmallFlower$19.95Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.