Freya & Bailey

Freya & Bailey FORTE! COLLAGEN FACE MOISTURISER WITH RETINOL + AHA FRUIT ACIDS

Name: Freya & Bailey - FORTE! COLLAGEN FACE MOISTURISER WITH RETINOL + AHA FRUIT ACIDS
Brand: Freya & Bailey

Efficacy37/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

Sodium hyaluronate, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 6 more

Good evidence

What the product description says

“COLLAGEN FACE MOISTURISER WITH RETINOL + AHA FRUIT ACIDS”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hyaluronic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, cocos nucifera oil.

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~2–3%

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~4–6%

Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~5–7.5%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~23–34%

Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~1.6–2.4%

Saccharum officinarum extractKey activeEffect: HighSugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.6%

Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~6.6–10%

TocopherolEffect: LowPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~2.6–3.9%

Evens skin tone

Retinyl palmitate

Weak evidence

What the product description says

“For Dull and Uneven Skin Tones The Retinol agent repairs skin and helps stimulate collagen production Delivers hydration not oil to fatigued complexions Boosts + tones while shielding against free radicals + pollutants Pollution and + Stressed Skin Rejuveniation”

Source: Candour Beauty

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.15–0.65%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Tocopherol, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 2 more

Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (tocopherol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

TocopherolKey activeEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~2.6–3.9%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~4–6%

Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking~1.3–1.9%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.1–0.5%

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · Tocopherol, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 3 more

Moderate evidence

This product contains tocopherol. This ingredient help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they might be able to prevent early signs of aging (like fine lines and wrinkles), at least to some extent. These ingredients will not be able to "reverse" signs of aging.

TocopherolEffect: LowPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~2.6–3.9%

Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~1.6–2.4%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.1–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

3 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract + 1 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 7 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extractA plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.85–1.3%est.

Citrus limon fruit extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~0.55–1.25%est.

Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.15–0.65%est.

Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~6.6–10%est.

Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lackingMedium~1.3–1.9%est.

Acer saccharum extractA plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compoundsMedium~0.45–1%est.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~0.1–0.5%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~5–7.5%est.

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~4–6%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Glycerin~23–34%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Olea europaea fruit oil~6.6–10%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil

Cocos nucifera oil~5–7.5%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil

Butyrospermum parkii butter~4–6%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Tocopherol~2.6–3.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Sodium hyaluronate~2–3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Hyaluronic acid~1.6–2.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid

Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract~1.3–1.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking

More about Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract

Saccharum officinarum extract~1.1–1.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharum officinarum extract

Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract~0.85–1.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract

Citrus limon fruit extract~0.55–1.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus limon fruit extract

Acer saccharum extract~0.45–1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compounds

More about Acer saccharum extract

Aha fruit acid

Not recognized

Retinyl palmitate~0.15–0.65%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~0.1–0.5%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate

Multivitamin complex, de-stressing blend

Not recognized

Ingredient list view

Glycerin, Olea europaea fruit oil, Cocos nucifera oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Tocopherol, Sodium hyaluronate, Hyaluronic acid, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract, Saccharum officinarum extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract, Acer saccharum extract, Unknown, Retinyl palmitate, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Unknown