Fresh Crme Ancienne Eye Cream

Fresh Crme Ancienne Eye Cream

Efficacy62/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
14 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Fine Lines and Wrinkles, Loss of Firmness and Elasticity, and Dark Circles Formulation.”
Source: Sephora

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, honey.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: beeswax, butyrospermum parkii butter.

BeeswaxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.2–0.75%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.2–1.8%
Limnanthes alba seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~2–3%
Cera albaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.4–0.95%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.15–0.55%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.35–0.85%
Hippophae rhamnoides oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient. Contains various ingredients including vitamins and fatty acids that could work in the skin to neutralize free radicals and minimize moisture loss - if enough of these compounds is able to penetrate the skin in an active form.~0.55–1.25%
HoneyKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the skin and might have some anti-bacterial properties. Can be an allergen~4.5–6.8%
MelKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and attract water to it~22–33%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~1.3–1.9%
Propylene carbonateEffect: LowIs used to dissolve other ingredients and create nice product texture~0.85–1.25%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.2–0.75%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.7%
Rosa damascena flower waterEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~0.3–0.7%
Anti-aging
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Visibly firms while smoothing the look of fine lines and crow’s feet. . Rosewater.”
Source: Sephora

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - butyrospermum parkii butter - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.2–1.8%
Limnanthes alba seed oilEffect: LowThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~2–3%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 strong irritants: Citrus limon peel oil, Rosa damascena flower water + 5 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hippophae rhamnoides oilA good emollient. Contains various ingredients including vitamins and fatty acids that could work in the skin to neutralize free radicals and minimize moisture loss - if enough of these compounds is able to penetrate the skin in an active form.High~0.55–1.25%est.
Echinacea purpurea extractPlant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.95%est.
Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~0.35–0.85%est.
Rosa damascena flower waterUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.7%est.
Anthemis nobilis flower oilAn essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skinHigh~0.2–0.8%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.7%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Peg-7 glyceryl cocoateHelps oils and water mix together and works as a cleansing agentMedium~2.6–3.9%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~1.3–1.9%est.
Cera albaForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergenMedium~0.4–0.95%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Sodium metabisulfiteA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.2–1.8%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Mel~22–33%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and attract water to it

More about Mel
Honey~4.5–6.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAntibacterial

Helps attract water to the skin and might have some anti-bacterial properties. Can be an allergen

More about Honey
Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate~4.6–6.8%
Formula
Stearalkonium hectorite~3.5–5.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create an even product consistency

More about Stearalkonium hectorite
Peg-7 glyceryl cocoate~2.6–3.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oils and water mix together and works as a cleansing agent

More about Peg-7 glyceryl cocoate
Limnanthes alba seed oil~2–3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient

More about Limnanthes alba seed oil
Jojoba oil peg-150 esters~1.5–2.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Jojoba oil peg-150 esters
Pentylene glycol~1.3–1.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.2–1.8%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Propylene carbonate~0.85–1.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Is used to dissolve other ingredients and create nice product texture

More about Propylene carbonate
Hippophae rhamnoides oil~0.55–1.25%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A good emollient. Contains various ingredients including vitamins and fatty acids that could work in the skin to neutralize free radicals and minimize moisture loss - if enough of these compounds is able to penetrate the skin in an active form.

More about Hippophae rhamnoides oil
Echinacea purpurea extract~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating

More about Echinacea purpurea extract
Citrus limon peel oil~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil
Osmanthus fragrans flower extract~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Rosa damascena flower water~0.3–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower water
Anthemis nobilis flower oil~0.2–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

An essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin

More about Anthemis nobilis flower oil
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.35–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.15–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Tocopherol~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Sucrose laurate~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Sucrose laurate
Water~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Cera alba~0.4–0.95%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingCleansing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Cera alba
Beeswax~0.2–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Beeswax
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.2–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glycerin~0.15–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Parfum~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Sodium metabisulfite~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium metabisulfite
Citric acid~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Geraniol~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Limonene~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Citronellol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Ingredient list view

Mel, Honey, Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, Stearalkonium hectorite, Peg-7 glyceryl cocoate, Limnanthes alba seed oil, Jojoba oil peg-150 esters, Pentylene glycol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Propylene carbonate, Hippophae rhamnoides oil, Echinacea purpurea extract, Citrus limon peel oil, Osmanthus fragrans flower extract, Rosa damascena flower water, Anthemis nobilis flower oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Tocopherol, Sucrose laurate, Water, Cera alba, Beeswax, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Parfum, Sodium metabisulfite, Citric acid, Geraniol, Limonene, Citronellol

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 15 studies and safety reviews.

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Fresh Crme Ancienne Eye Cream
FreshCrme Ancienne Eye Cream

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