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Fresh Crème Ancienne Face Oil Elixir
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Fresh Crème Ancienne Face Oil Elixir

Efficacy62/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
Hippophae rhamnoides oil, Ribes nigrum seed oil + 8 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“DrynessIf you want to know more… Fresh Elixir Ancien is an ultra-nourishing face oil that smoothes the complexion and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”
Source: Sephora

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: helianthus annuus seed oil, simmondsia chinensis seed oil.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

Hippophae rhamnoides oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient. Contains various ingredients including vitamins and fatty acids that could work in the skin to neutralize free radicals and minimize moisture loss - if enough of these compounds is able to penetrate the skin in an active form.~2.3–3.5%
Ribes nigrum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.~3.2–4.8%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~1.5–2.3%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~5.8–8.7%
Limnanthes alba seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~22–33%
Triticum vulgare germ oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).~4.8–7.1%
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineKey activeEffect: MediumIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~0.1–0.35%
Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.15–0.55%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.35–0.8%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.4–0.95%
Anti-aging
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, Limnanthes alba seed oil + 2 more
Limited evidence
What the product description says
“DrynessIf you want to know more… Fresh Elixir Ancien is an ultra-nourishing face oil that smoothes the complexion and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”
Source: Sephora

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineEffect: LowIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~0.1–0.35%
Limnanthes alba seed oilEffect: LowThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~22–33%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.4–0.95%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.2–0.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Commiphora mukul resin extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Medium risk
We flagged 7 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hippophae rhamnoides oilA good emollient. Contains various ingredients including vitamins and fatty acids that could work in the skin to neutralize free radicals and minimize moisture loss - if enough of these compounds is able to penetrate the skin in an active form.High~2.3–3.5%est.
Commiphora mukul resin extractA plant extract might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skinHigh~1.7–2.5%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.55–1.25%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~5.8–8.7%est.
Ribes nigrum seed oilAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.Medium~3.2–4.8%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.2–0.7%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Triticum vulgare germ oilA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).3/5~4.8–7.1%est.
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Ingredients

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Limnanthes alba seed oil~22–33%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient

More about Limnanthes alba seed oil
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~5.8–8.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Triticum vulgare germ oil~4.8–7.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).

More about Triticum vulgare germ oil
Ribes nigrum~3.8–5.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ribes nigrum
Ribes nigrum seed oil~3.2–4.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.

More about Ribes nigrum seed oil
Hippophae rhamnoides oil~2.3–3.5%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A good emollient. Contains various ingredients including vitamins and fatty acids that could work in the skin to neutralize free radicals and minimize moisture loss - if enough of these compounds is able to penetrate the skin in an active form.

More about Hippophae rhamnoides oil
Commiphora mukul resin extract~1.7–2.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin

More about Commiphora mukul resin extract
Helianthus annuus seed oil~1.5–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.55–1.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Tocopherol~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.2–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.35–0.8%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline~0.1–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Is claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness

More about Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline
Palmitic acid~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Ingredient list view

Limnanthes alba seed oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Triticum vulgare germ oil, Ribes nigrum, Ribes nigrum seed oil, Hippophae rhamnoides oil, Commiphora mukul resin extract, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl palmitate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, Palmitic acid

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 10 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Pharmacology and Phytochemistry of Oleo-Gum Resin of Commiphora wightii (Guggulu)hindawi.com
  2. 2
    Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  3. 3
    Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
  4. 4
    Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  6. 6
    Allergic contact dermatitis induced by rosemary leaf extract in a cleansing gelpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Fresh Crème Ancienne Face Oil Elixir
FreshCrème Ancienne Face Oil Elixir
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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.