Estée Lauder Micro Essence Skin Activating Treatment Lotion with Sakura

Estée Lauder Micro Essence Skin Activating Treatment Lotion with Sakura

Efficacy100/100IrritancyLow
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
Acetyl glucosamine, Acetyl hexapeptide-8 + 2 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“In addition, the Micro-Nutrient Bio-Ferment is a powerful moisturiser that plumps up the skin and corrects fine lines.”
Source: Allbeauty

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains acetyl glucosamine.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl hexapeptide-8.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Acetyl glucosamineKey activeEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~0.5–1.15%
Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.8–1.25%
Algae extractEffect: LowPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~1.4–2%
Laminaria saccharina extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations~1–1.5%
Moisturizing
Acetyl glucosamine, Acetyl hexapeptide-8 + 12 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“In addition, the Micro-Nutrient Bio-Ferment is a powerful moisturiser that plumps up the skin and corrects fine lines.”
Source: Allbeauty

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, betaine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, caprylyl glycol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl glucosamine, acetyl hexapeptide-8

TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.5%
Acetyl glucosamineHero· HumectantEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~0.5–1.15%
Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.8–1.25%
Algae extractKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~1.4–2%
BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.3–0.75%
Bifida ferment lysateKey activeEffect: HighConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~5.3–7.9%
Lactobacillus fermentKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~2.1–3.1%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.95%
Peg-75· HumectantEffect: LowHelps create a nice product texture and soften the upper layer of the skin.~0.1–0.45%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.15–0.6%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~2.8–4.1%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.15–0.55%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.3–0.7%
Laminaria saccharina extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations~1–1.5%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · Acetyl glucosamine, Bifida ferment lysate + 1 more
Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: acetyl glucosamine

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: bifida ferment lysate.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Acetyl glucosamineKey activeEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~0.5–1.15%
Bifida ferment lysateEffect: LowConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~5.3–7.9%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.3–0.7%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Bifida ferment lysate, Caffeine + 1 more
Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (bifida ferment lysate) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Bifida ferment lysateKey activeEffect: MediumConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~5.3–7.9%
CaffeineEffect: LowMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes~0.35–0.8%
Lactobacillus fermentEffect: LowA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~2.1–3.1%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
9 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 9 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Anthemis nobilis flower extractA plant extract that one one hand, can contain compounds that can help calm down skin irritation, but, on the other hand, its other compounds (especially fragrant ones) can themselves be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.8%est.
CaffeineMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyesMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.6%est.
Ppg-5-ceteth-20A solvent with some emollient propertiesMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.3%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Algae extractPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet3/5~1.4–2%est.
Laminaria saccharina extractA seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations3/5~1–1.5%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Bifida ferment lysate~5.3–7.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Consists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect

More about Bifida ferment lysate
Propanediol~3.7–5.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Butylene glycol~2.8–4.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Lactobacillus ferment~2.1–3.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationReduces irritation

A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative

More about Lactobacillus ferment
Oryza sativa lees extract~1.7–2.5%
Formula
Prunus lannesiana flower extract~1.4–2.1%
Formula
Algae extract~1.4–2%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet

More about Algae extract
Laminaria saccharina extract~1–1.5%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations

More about Laminaria saccharina extract
Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.8–1.25%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8
Acetyl glucosamine~0.5–1.15%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingEvens skin toneExfoliation

An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin

More about Acetyl glucosamine
Sodium hyaluronate~0.4–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Anthemis nobilis flower extract~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A plant extract that one one hand, can contain compounds that can help calm down skin irritation, but, on the other hand, its other compounds (especially fragrant ones) can themselves be irritating

More about Anthemis nobilis flower extract
Caffeine~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
De-puffingAnti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes

More about Caffeine
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.3–0.7%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Betaine~0.3–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Maltodextrin~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Carbomer~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Tromethamine~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine
Citric acid~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Trehalose~0.15–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Caprylyl glycol~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Pentylene glycol~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Peg-75~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps create a nice product texture and soften the upper layer of the skin.

More about Peg-75
Ppg-5-ceteth-20~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

A solvent with some emollient properties

More about Ppg-5-ceteth-20
Disodium edta~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Sodium citrate~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Potassium sorbate~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Ingredient list view

Water, Bifida ferment lysate, Propanediol, Butylene glycol, Lactobacillus ferment, Oryza sativa lees extract, Prunus lannesiana flower extract, Algae extract, Laminaria saccharina extract, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Acetyl glucosamine, Sodium hyaluronate, Anthemis nobilis flower extract, Caffeine, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Betaine, Maltodextrin, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Citric acid, Trehalose, Caprylyl glycol, Pentylene glycol, Peg-75, Ppg-5-ceteth-20, Disodium edta, Sodium citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium sorbate

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Estée Lauder - Micro Essence Skin Activating Treatment Lotion with Sakura" works well for improving skin hydration As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Humectants in this product (acetyl glucosamine, acetyl hexapeptide-8, algae extract, betaine and lactobacillus ferment) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Algae extract, caprylyl glycol and pentylene glycol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.80% - 1.25%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: dipotassium glycyrrhizate and laminaria saccharina extract

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains actives that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be low. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 17 studies and safety reviews.

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Estée Lauder Micro Essence Skin Activating Treatment Lotion with Sakura
Estée LauderMicro Essence Skin Activating Treatment Lotion with Sakura

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.