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ESPA Tri-Active™ Resilience Pro-Biome Moisturiser
ESPA

ESPA Tri-Active™ Resilience Pro-Biome Moisturiser

Efficacy43/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 4 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
31 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Tri-Active™ Resilience Pro-Biome Moisturiser”
Source: Espa UK

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: anhydroxylitol, calcium pca.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, simmondsia chinensis seed oil.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3–3.7%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~4.3–5.2%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.2%
Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.2–0.35%
Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiablesKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~1.9–2.3%
TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
XylitylglucosideKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function~0.6–0.85%
AnhydroxylitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function~0.3–0.55%
Bifida ferment lysateKey activeEffect: HighConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~2.3–2.8%
Calcium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~1.4–1.8%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~0.25–0.45%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.3–0.6%
Chlorella vulgaris extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.2–0.35%
Coconut alkanesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin~5.9–7.2%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.15–0.3%
Glyceryl linolenateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
Plankton extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.15–0.3%
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~1.6–1.9%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.45–0.65%
Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.2–0.35%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.35%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.2–0.35%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.2–0.35%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.2–0.4%
Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.2–0.35%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.3–0.55%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Anti-aging
5 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Clinically proven to fight visible signs of lifestyle skin aging by improving skin's radiance, elasticity and firmness.”
Source: Dermstore

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.

This ingredient bifida ferment lysate might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.15–0.25%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.2–0.35%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.15–0.3%
Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.2–0.35%
Evens skin tone
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Honeysuckle works to improve uneven skin tone appearance and dullness, while Peony protects and soothes.”
Source: Espa UK

This product contains ingredients (bifida ferment lysate, paeonia lactiflora root extract) that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

Paeonia lactiflora root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.15–0.3%
Bifida ferment lysateEffect: LowConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~2.3–2.8%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.2–0.35%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.15–0.25%
Anti-blemish
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Weak support
What the product description says
“Formulated with honeysuckle to improve the appearance of uneven skin tone and dullness, peony to protect and soothe, neroili to replenish, and mandarin for blemish-free skin, ESPA Tri-Active Resilience Pro Biome Moisturiser is a hydrating day cream.”
Source: Face the future

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.15–0.3%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.15–0.25%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.15–0.25%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 10 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (bifida ferment lysate) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Bifida ferment lysateKey activeEffect: MediumConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~2.3–2.8%
Lonicera caprifolium flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating~0.15–0.25%
Lonicera japonica flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating~0.15–0.3%
Paeonia lactiflora root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.15–0.3%
Chlorella vulgaris extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.2–0.35%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.15–0.3%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.2–0.35%
Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.2–0.35%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.15–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
22 strong irritants: Limonene, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil + 20 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 46 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Citrus nobilis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Lonicera caprifolium flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil—High~0.15–0.3%est.
Lonicera japonica flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Cymbopogon nardus oil—High~0.2–0.35%est.
Jasminum officinale flower extractFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Litsea cubeba fruit oilAn essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~5.9–7.2%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~4.3–5.2%est.
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.6–1.9%est.
Polyglyceryl-2 stearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~1.1–1.3%est.
Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenicMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswaxHelps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)Medium~0.15–0.25%est.
Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Paeonia lactiflora root extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lackingMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.2–0.35%est.
Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory propertiesMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.2–0.35%est.
Glyceryl linoleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
5 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
5 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic3/5~0.2–0.35%est.
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.15–0.3%est.
Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.2–0.35%est.
Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties3/5~0.2–0.35%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skin2/5~5.9–7.2%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Coconut alkanes~5.9–7.2%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Coconut alkanes
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~4.3–5.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Glycerin~3–3.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Bifida ferment lysate~2.3–2.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Consists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect

More about Bifida ferment lysate
Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables~1.9–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables
Polyglyceryl-6 distearate~1.6–1.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-6 distearate
Helianthus annuus seed oil~1.4–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Polyglyceryl-2 stearate~1.1–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-2 stearate
Cetyl stearate~0.8–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cetyl stearate
Xylitylglucoside~0.6–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitylglucoside
Pectin~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Pectin
Glyceryl stearate~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Anhydroxylitol~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function

More about Anhydroxylitol
Phenoxyethanol~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Cetyl alcohol~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Stearyl alcohol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Stearyl alcohol
Limonene~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Coco-caprylate/caprate~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Isostearyl isostearate~0.2–0.35%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic

More about Isostearyl isostearate
Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Jojoba esters~0.2–0.35%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Sodium hyaluronate~0.1–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil
Sclerotium gum~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Xylitol~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol
Linalool~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)

More about Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax
Maris aqua~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Sea water. Helps dissolve other ingredients in a product

More about Maris aqua
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil
Citrus nobilis peel oil~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus nobilis peel oil
Benzoic acid~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid
Parfum~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens oil
Dehydroacetic acid~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid
Glucose~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Calcium pca~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Calcium pca
Geraniol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Lonicera caprifolium flower extract~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating

More about Lonicera caprifolium flower extract
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.15–0.25%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Cananga odorata flower oil~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Plankton extract~0.15–0.3%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Plankton extract
Paeonia lactiflora root extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin tone

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Paeonia lactiflora root extract
Lonicera japonica flower extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating

More about Lonicera japonica flower extract
Farnesol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Trehalose~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Stearic acid~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Laminaria digitata extract~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract
Citronellol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Lactic acid~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Cymbopogon nardus oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Cymbopogon nardus oil
Jasminum officinale flower extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Jasminum officinale flower extract
Litsea cubeba fruit oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragrance

More about Litsea cubeba fruit oil
Myrocarpus fastigiatus oil~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Myrocarpus fastigiatus oil
Citral~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Sorbitol~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol
Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Benzyl benzoate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Lecithin~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Chlorella vulgaris extract~0.2–0.35%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

More about Chlorella vulgaris extract
Potassium sorbate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium benzoate~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Saccharide isomerate~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate
Benzyl salicylate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate
Sodium hydroxide~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Tocopheryl acetate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Glyceryl linoleate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Glyceryl linoleate
Glyceryl linolenate~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl linolenate
Jasminum sambac flower extract~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Jasminum sambac flower extract
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Xanthan gum~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Retinyl palmitate~0.15–0.25%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Disodium edta~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Glyceryl caprylate~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Ingredient list view

Water, Coconut alkanes, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Glycerin, Bifida ferment lysate, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Polyglyceryl-2 stearate, Cetyl stearate, Xylitylglucoside, Pectin, Glyceryl stearate, Anhydroxylitol, Phenoxyethanol, Cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, Limonene, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Isostearyl isostearate, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Jojoba esters, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Sodium hyaluronate, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Sclerotium gum, Xylitol, Linalool, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Maris aqua, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Citrus nobilis peel oil, Benzoic acid, Parfum, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Dehydroacetic acid, Glucose, Calcium pca, Geraniol, Lonicera caprifolium flower extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Cananga odorata flower oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Plankton extract, Paeonia lactiflora root extract, Lonicera japonica flower extract, Farnesol, Trehalose, Stearic acid, Laminaria digitata extract, Citronellol, Lactic acid, Cymbopogon nardus oil, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Litsea cubeba fruit oil, Myrocarpus fastigiatus oil, Citral, Sorbitol, Tocopherol, Benzyl benzoate, Lecithin, Chlorella vulgaris extract, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Saccharide isomerate, Benzyl salicylate, Sodium hydroxide, Tocopheryl acetate, Glyceryl linoleate, Glyceryl linolenate, Jasminum sambac flower extract, Rosa damascena flower oil, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Xanthan gum, Caprylyl glycol, Retinyl palmitate, Disodium edta, Glyceryl caprylate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ESPATri-Active™ Resilience Pro-Biome MoisturiserYOUR PRODUCTLaboratoires de BiarritzHYDRA-PROTECT + Moisturizing Cream Face OrganicThalgoSource Marine Hydrating Melting CreamMuradRestorative Hydro-Hyaluronic Cream
Match—58%57%57%
Price$69.95$23.68−$46.27$84.28+$14.33$69.00−$0.95
Shared key ingredients—7 of 167 of 167 of 16
Key difference—Linoleic AcidGluconolactonePalmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 37 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Bifidobacterium longumlysate, a new ingredient forreactive skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  3. 3
    Use of Probiotics for Dermal Applicationsresearchgate.net
  4. 4
    Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
  6. 6
    Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
ESPA Tri-Active™ Resilience Pro-Biome Moisturiser
ESPATri-Active™ Resilience Pro-Biome Moisturiser
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Buy at Dermstore$106.20Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.