ESPA Tri-Active Regenerating Calming Cica Cleansing Balm

ESPA Tri-Active Regenerating Calming Cica Cleansing Balm

Efficacy50/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Cleansing
Cetearyl alcohol, Peg-8 beeswax + 4 more
Cleanses gently
What the product description says
“This beautifully calming balm cleanses deeply while reducing the appearance of redness and protecting against dryness with a precious blend of natural oils, Cupuacu butter and sensitive-skin friendly Cica.”
Source: Espa UK

This product works by removing dirt and oil from the surface of the skin. It uses a combination of mild cleansing agents (cetearyl alcohol, cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen, peg-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, peg-60 almond glycerides, peg-8 beeswax, sorbitan stearate) and should be able to cleanse the skin gently. Still keep in mind that any cleansing can disrupt the skin barrier, and most people do not need to cleanse their skin more than once per day.

Cetearyl alcoholEffect: HighA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~3.1–4.7%
Peg-8 beeswaxEffect: HighHelps water and oil mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be an allergen (beeswax)~2.4–3.6%
Sorbitan stearateEffect: HighHelps water and oil mix together~2–3%
Peg-6 caprylic/capric glyceridesEffect: HighHelps dissolve other ingredients~1.2–1.8%
Peg-60 almond glyceridesEffect: High~1–1.5%
Cocoyl hydrolyzed collagenEffect: High~0.15–0.65%
Exfoliation
No ingredient credited for this claim
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Removing the milk with a muslin cloth completes the purifying routine and gently polishes the skin.”
Source: Espa UK

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
12 strong irritants: Cananga odorata flower oil, Cymbopogon nardus oil + 10 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 20 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.75%est.
Cymbopogon nardus oil—High~0.35–0.8%est.
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.35–0.75%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.75%est.
Calendula officinalis flower extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Eucalyptus globulus leaf oilAn essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.15–0.5%est.
Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.5%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.5%est.
Anthemis nobilis flower oilAn essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skinHigh~0.1–0.5%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skinHigh~0.15–0.5%est.
Eugenia caryophyllus bud oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.3%est.
Vitis vinifera seed oilA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~30–45%est.
Peg-8 beeswaxHelps water and oil mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be an allergen (beeswax)Medium~2.4–3.6%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.9–2.8%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~1.4–2%est.
Theobroma grandiflorum seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layerMedium~0.35–0.85%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.35–0.8%est.
Moringa oleifera seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acidMedium~0.05–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.3/5~0.05–0.3%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~3.1–4.7%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Vitis vinifera seed oil~30–45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties

More about Vitis vinifera seed oil
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed~4.2–6.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed
Cetearyl alcohol~3.1–4.7%
Comedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Peg-8 beeswax~2.4–3.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps water and oil mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be an allergen (beeswax)

More about Peg-8 beeswax
Sorbitan stearate~2–3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.9–2.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Olea europaea fruit oil~1.4–2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Peg-6 caprylic/capric glycerides~1.2–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps dissolve other ingredients

More about Peg-6 caprylic/capric glycerides
Peg-60 almond glycerides~1–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Peg-60 almond glycerides
Silica~1.1–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.5–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Phenoxyethanol~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layer

More about Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter
Tocopherol~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Cananga odorata flower oil~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil
Cymbopogon nardus oil~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · high
Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.35–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Geraniol~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Calendula officinalis flower extract~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating

More about Calendula officinalis flower extract
Centella asiatica extract~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Water~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Amyris balsamifera bark oil~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil
Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens oil
Linalool~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Parfum~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Anthemis nobilis flower oil~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

An essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin

More about Anthemis nobilis flower oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil
Chlorophyllin-copper complex~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen
Eugenia caryophyllus bud oil~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Eugenia caryophyllus bud oil
Alaria esculenta extract~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.

More about Alaria esculenta extract
Gossypium herbaceum seed oil~0.05–0.3%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Cottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.

More about Gossypium herbaceum seed oil
Elaeis guineensis oil~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis oil
Bidens pilosa extract~0.05–0.15%
Formula
Linum usitatissimum seed oil~0.01–0.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Linum usitatissimum seed oil
Moringa oleifera seed oil~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid

More about Moringa oleifera seed oil
Ingredient list view

Vitis vinifera seed oil, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed, Cetearyl alcohol, Peg-8 beeswax, Sorbitan stearate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Olea europaea fruit oil, Peg-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, Peg-60 almond glycerides, Silica, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Phenoxyethanol, Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, Tocopherol, Cananga odorata flower oil, Cymbopogon nardus oil, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Geraniol, Calendula officinalis flower extract, Centella asiatica extract, Water, Amyris balsamifera bark oil, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Linalool, Parfum, Anthemis nobilis flower oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil, Chlorophyllin-copper complex, Cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen, Eugenia caryophyllus bud oil, Alaria esculenta extract, Gossypium herbaceum seed oil, Elaeis guineensis oil, Bidens pilosa extract, Linum usitatissimum seed oil, Moringa oleifera seed oil

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Espa
$105.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ESPATri-Active Regenerating Calming Cica Cleansing BalmYOUR PRODUCTELEMISPro-Collagen Water Mint Cleansing BalmFormulaCleansing Balm with Muslin ClothThe INKEY List CAOat Cleansing Balm
Match—41%37%36%
Price$105.00$74.96−$30.04—$4.07−$100.93
Shared key ingredients—8 of 138 of 132 of 13
Key difference—Wheat Germ OilGlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Irritancy High Medium Medium Low
Drying alcohol————
View product Shop Shop Shop

More alternatives: Emma Hardie Moringa Cleansing Balm with Dual-Action Cleansing ClothPerricone MD Neuropeptide The Cleansing Balm

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 31 studies and safety reviews.

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ESPA Tri-Active Regenerating Calming Cica Cleansing Balm
ESPATri-Active Regenerating Calming Cica Cleansing Balm

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.