ESPA The Hydrator

ESPA The Hydrator

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
Helianthus annuus seed oil, Sodium lactate + 16 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“The Hydrator leaves skin feeling nourished and soothed with moisture.”
Source: Espa

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, squalane.

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.45–0.7%
Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.5–0.75%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.65%
Triticum vulgare germ oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).~1.4–1.7%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.65–0.95%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2–2.4%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~4–4.9%
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~5–6.1%
Canola oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin~1.6–2%
Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~0.65–0.95%
BiotinEffect: LowMight have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect~0.15–0.3%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice· HumectantEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~26–32%
C12-16 alcohols· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product's texture~0.55–0.85%
Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.55–0.8%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.45–0.65%
Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.95–1.15%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.7–1%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
12 strong irritants: Hamamelis virginiana water, Limonene + 10 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 26 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hamamelis virginiana waterA plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritatingHigh~1.3–1.5%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.7–1%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.55–0.8%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.55–0.8%est.
Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~0.55–0.8%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.5–0.7%est.
Pogostemon cablin leaf oilUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.5–0.8%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.6%est.
Zingiber officinale root oilAn essential oil that is likely to be irritating and can cause photosensitivityHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.3–0.5%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~26–32%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~5–6.1%est.
Methyl glucose sesquistearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~2.9–3.5%est.
Canola oilA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.6–2%est.
C12-16 alcoholsHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product's textureMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.4–0.65%est.
Phytic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmeticsMedium~0.4–0.65%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Triticum vulgare germ oilA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).3/5~1.4–1.7%est.
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~0.65–0.95%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~26–32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Water~12–15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~5–6.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Squalane~4–4.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Methyl glucose sesquistearate~2.9–3.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Methyl glucose sesquistearate
Glycerin~2–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Canola oil~1.6–2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Canola oil
Triticum vulgare germ oil~1.4–1.7%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).

More about Triticum vulgare germ oil
Hamamelis virginiana water~1.3–1.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating

More about Hamamelis virginiana water
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Sorbitol~0.95–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol
Betula alba juice~0.75–1.1%
Formula
Limonene~0.7–1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Tocopherol~0.7–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Sodium pca~0.65–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Sclerotium gum~0.6–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Glyceryl stearate se~0.65–0.95%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Stearyl alcohol~0.65–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Stearyl alcohol
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Alcohol denat.~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.
C12-16 alcohols~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product's texture

More about C12-16 alcohols
Parfum~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Benzoic acid~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid
Pogostemon cablin leaf oil~0.5–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Pogostemon cablin leaf oil
Sodium lactate~0.5–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate
Palmitic acid~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Dehydroacetic acid~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Lecithin~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Linalool~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Zingiber officinale root oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil that is likely to be irritating and can cause photosensitivity

More about Zingiber officinale root oil
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Phytic acid~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics

More about Phytic acid
Sodium hyaluronate~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Caprylyl glycol~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Citral~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Geraniol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Sodium citrate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium hydroxide~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Citric acid~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Biotin~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect

More about Biotin
Ingredient list view

Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Water, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Squalane, Methyl glucose sesquistearate, Glycerin, Canola oil, Triticum vulgare germ oil, Hamamelis virginiana water, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbitol, Betula alba juice, Limonene, Tocopherol, Sodium pca, Sclerotium gum, Glyceryl stearate se, Stearyl alcohol, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Alcohol denat., C12-16 alcohols, Parfum, Benzoic acid, Pogostemon cablin leaf oil, Sodium lactate, Palmitic acid, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Dehydroacetic acid, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Lecithin, Linalool, Zingiber officinale root oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phytic acid, Sodium hyaluronate, Caprylyl glycol, Citral, Geraniol, Sodium citrate, Potassium sorbate, Sodium hydroxide, Citric acid, Biotin

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 19 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
    Canola Oilsciencedirect.com
  4. 4
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
  6. 6
ESPA The Hydrator
ESPAThe Hydrator

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