ESPA Skin Radiance Intensive Serum

ESPA Skin Radiance Intensive Serum

Efficacy50/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Evens skin tone
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract + 2 more
Not delivered
What the product description says
“An intensive serum that helps visibly brighten and even skin tone.”
Source: Lookfantastic US

This product contains ingredients (glycyrrhiza glabra root extract) that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.2–0.35%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.4%
Morus bombycis root extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that might contain arbutin, a compound that has skin-lightening properties. Might have some anti-oxidant activity. Is unlikely to be effective though in the concentrations typically used in skincare products~0.2–0.4%
Ascorbyl glucosideUnder-dosedA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.5–0.75%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Glycerin, Helianthus annuus seed oil + 12 more
Works

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: chondrus crispus extract, helianthus annuus seed oil.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.4–3%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~2–2.5%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.8–1.2%
Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.35–0.65%
Honey extractKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
Chondrus crispus extractKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~0.15–0.25%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.1–0.2%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3.9–4.8%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~1.5–1.8%
Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~1.1–1.4%
Scutellaria baicalensis root extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties~0.2–0.35%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.05–0.1%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
12 strong irritants: Hamamelis virginiana water, Alcohol + 10 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 22 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hamamelis virginiana waterA plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritatingHigh~4.6–5.6%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~3.1–3.8%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.35–0.6%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Citrus grandis fruit extract—High~0.2–0.35%est.
Morus bombycis root extractA plant extract that might contain arbutin, a compound that has skin-lightening properties. Might have some anti-oxidant activity. Is unlikely to be effective though in the concentrations typically used in skincare productsHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Scutellaria baicalensis root extractA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant propertiesHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Citrus nobilis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Jasminum officinale flower extractFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~1.5–1.8%est.
Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Honey extractHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Phytic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmeticsMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Chondrus crispus extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency3/5~0.15–0.25%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Hamamelis virginiana water~4.6–5.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating

More about Hamamelis virginiana water
Butylene glycol~3.9–4.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Alcohol~3.1–3.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Glycerin~2.4–3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Helianthus annuus seed oil~2–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl glycol~1.5–1.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Sorbitol~1.1–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol
Sodium pca~0.8–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Xanthan gum~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Ascorbyl glucoside~0.5–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside
Citrullus lanatus seed oil~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Sclerotium gum~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Sodium lactate~0.35–0.65%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate
Limonene~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Sodium hydroxide~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Honey extract~0.3–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Honey extract
Spiraea ulmaria root extract~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Vaccinium vitis-idaea seed oil~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Citrus grandis fruit extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationEvens skin toneReduces rednessAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Morus bombycis root extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin tone

A plant extract that might contain arbutin, a compound that has skin-lightening properties. Might have some anti-oxidant activity. Is unlikely to be effective though in the concentrations typically used in skincare products

More about Morus bombycis root extract
Scutellaria baicalensis root extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties

More about Scutellaria baicalensis root extract
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemish

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Inulin lauryl carbamate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Inulin lauryl carbamate
Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil
Cedrus atlantica bark oil~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Citrus nobilis peel oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus nobilis peel oil
Phytic acid~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics

More about Phytic acid
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Linalool~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Glucose~0.1–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Chondrus crispus extract~0.15–0.25%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency

More about Chondrus crispus extract
Jasminum officinale flower extract~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Jasminum officinale flower extract
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Ingredient list view

Water, Hamamelis virginiana water, Butylene glycol, Alcohol, Glycerin, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol, Sorbitol, Sodium pca, Xanthan gum, Ascorbyl glucoside, Citrullus lanatus seed oil, Sclerotium gum, Sodium lactate, Limonene, Sodium hydroxide, Honey extract, Spiraea ulmaria root extract, Vaccinium vitis-idaea seed oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract, Citrus grandis fruit extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Morus bombycis root extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Inulin lauryl carbamate, Sodium hyaluronate, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Cedrus atlantica bark oil, Citrus nobilis peel oil, Phytic acid, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Linalool, Glucose, Chondrus crispus extract, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Rosa damascena flower oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ESPASkin Radiance Intensive SerumYOUR PRODUCTDarphinMini Intral Inner Youth Rescue SerumNeutrogenaHydro Boost Hydrating SerumKruidvatHyaluron Booster Drops
Match—42%42%41%
Price—$70.47$13.09—
Shared key ingredients—5 of 85 of 84 of 8
Key difference—Salicylic AcidBisabololUrea
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol —— Contains drying alcohol
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 26 studies and safety reviews.

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ESPA Skin Radiance Intensive Serum
ESPASkin Radiance Intensive Serum

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