ESPA Regenerating Moisture Complex

ESPA Regenerating Moisture Complex

Efficacy37/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed + 7 more
Works
What the product description says
“A deeply nourishing, age-defying moisturizer to intensely hydrate and help minimise visible signs of ageing.”
Source: Espa

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, cetearyl alcohol.

Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~4.4–5.3%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seedKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~4.2–5.1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.4–2.9%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2–2.4%
Mangifera indica seed butterKey activeEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.6–0.9%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.5–0.7%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.7–2%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.5%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.45%
Anti-aging
Tocopherol, Camellia sinensis leaf extract + 1 more
Not delivered
What the product description says
“A deeply nourishing, age-defying moisturizer to intensely hydrate and help minimise visible signs of ageing.”
Source: Espa

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.5%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.45%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.05–0.1%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
13 strong irritants: Citrus reticulata peel oil, Limonene + 11 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 22 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus reticulata peel oilAn essential oil used for fragrance. Can be an allergen and irritantHigh~0.95–1.15%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.7–1.05%est.
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.55–0.85%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.5–0.7%est.
Citrus aurantium amara peel oil—High~0.45–0.7%est.
P-anisic acidHelps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidationHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Santalum austrocaledonicum wood oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extractA plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~4.4–5.3%est.
Sodium stearoyl lactylateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.2–1.4%est.
Salix nigra bark extractA plant extract that might contain salicylic acidMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Levulinic acidHelps stabilize a product formulationMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Phytic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmeticsMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Sodium levulinateA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2–2.4%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~4.4–5.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed~4.2–5.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed
Camellia kissi seed oil~3.1–3.8%
Formula
Glycerin~2.4–2.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cetearyl alcohol~2–2.4%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~1.7–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Polyglyceryl-3 stearate~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 stearate
Sodium stearoyl lactylate~1.2–1.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl lactylate
Citrus reticulata peel oil~0.95–1.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil used for fragrance. Can be an allergen and irritant

More about Citrus reticulata peel oil
Limonene~0.7–1.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Mangifera indica seed butter~0.6–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Mangifera indica seed butter
Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Salix nigra bark extract~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

A plant extract that might contain salicylic acid

More about Salix nigra bark extract
Linalool~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Xanthan gum~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Citrus aurantium amara peel oil~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.5–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Sorbic acid~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid
Levulinic acid~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps stabilize a product formulation

More about Levulinic acid
P-anisic acid~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Helps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritating

More about P-anisic acid
Pelargonium graveolens flower oil~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation

More about Pelargonium graveolens flower oil
Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil
Sodium hydroxide~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Phytic acid~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics

More about Phytic acid
Santalum austrocaledonicum wood oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Santalum austrocaledonicum wood oil
Sodium levulinate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium levulinate
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract
Maltodextrin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Tocopherol~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Geraniol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Citronellol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Pelvetia canaliculata extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Citral~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Beta-carotene~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene
Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color

More about Daucus carota sativa root extract
Daucus carota sativa seed oil~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals and have an anti-bacterial effect

More about Daucus carota sativa seed oil
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Farnesol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Ingredient list view

Water, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed, Camellia kissi seed oil, Glycerin, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 stearate, Sodium stearoyl lactylate, Citrus reticulata peel oil, Limonene, Mangifera indica seed butter, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Salix nigra bark extract, Linalool, Xanthan gum, Citrus aurantium amara peel oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Sorbic acid, Levulinic acid, P-anisic acid, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Sodium hydroxide, Phytic acid, Santalum austrocaledonicum wood oil, Sodium levulinate, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Maltodextrin, Tocopherol, Geraniol, Citronellol, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Pelvetia canaliculata extract, Citral, Beta-carotene, Daucus carota sativa root extract, Daucus carota sativa seed oil, Phenoxyethanol, Farnesol, Ascorbyl palmitate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ESPARegenerating Moisture ComplexYOUR PRODUCTNaifnourishing day creamIntraceuticalsRejuvenate Moisture Binding CreamSkinfoodRoyal Honey 100 Hour Moisture Cream
Match—40%39%39%
Price——$54.28$11.89
Shared key ingredients—3 of 63 of 63 of 6
Key difference—Persea Gratissima OilRetinyl PalmitateBeta-Glucan
Irritancy High Medium Medium Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 20 studies and safety reviews.

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ESPA Regenerating Moisture Complex
ESPARegenerating Moisture Complex

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