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ESPA Phyto Collagen Plumping Cream
ESPA

ESPA Phyto Collagen Plumping Cream

Efficacy37/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Cetyl alcohol, Glycerin + 16 more
Works
What the product description says
“Phyto Collagen Plumping Cream”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, polyglutamic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, cetearyl alcohol.

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~2.6–3.2%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.8–2.2%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.3–1.6%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.75–1.1%
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.~0.5–0.75%
Elaeis guineensis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
Polyglutamic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin.~0.3–0.55%
Undaria pinnatifida extractKey activeEffect: HighA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.35%
Collagen amino acidsKey activeEffect: HighHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~4.7–5.7%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~2–2.5%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%
Linum usitatissimum seed oilEffect: Low~0.2–0.35%
Moringa oleifera seed oil· EmollientEffect: LowA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid~0.2–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.6–0.85%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.25–0.45%
Anti-aging
Tocopherol
Not delivered
What the product description says
“ESPA's Tri-Active Regenerating Phyto-Collagen Plumping Cream is a lightweight super-hydrator that targets the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and other visible signs of ageing.”
Source: Lookfantastic

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.6–0.85%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
10 strong irritants: Parfum, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil + 8 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 18 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidationHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Citrus aurantifolia fruit extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Rosa damascena flower extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Candelilla/jojoba/rice bran polyglyceryl-3 estersHelp oil and water mix togetherMedium~2.3–2.9%est.
Sodium stearoyl lactylateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.95–1.2%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Moringa oleifera seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acidMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.3/5~0.5–0.75%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.3–1.6%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Dicaprylyl carbonate~4.7–5.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Microcrystalline cellulose~4.3–5.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Exfoliation
More about Microcrystalline cellulose
Cetyl alcohol~2.6–3.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Candelilla/jojoba/rice bran polyglyceryl-3 esters~2.3–2.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Help oil and water mix together

More about Candelilla/jojoba/rice bran polyglyceryl-3 esters
Glyceryl stearate~2–2.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Glycerin~1.8–2.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Cetearyl alcohol~1.3–1.6%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Sodium stearoyl lactylate~0.95–1.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl lactylate
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.75–1.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Tocopherol~0.6–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Gossypium herbaceum seed oil~0.5–0.75%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Cottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.

More about Gossypium herbaceum seed oil
Cellulose gum~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create thicker product consistency and stabilize emulsions

More about Cellulose gum
Butylene glycol~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Xanthan gum~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Elaeis guineensis oil~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis oil
Parfum~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Polyglutamic acid~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin.

More about Polyglutamic acid
Bidens pilosa extract~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Bidens pilosa extract
Sodium gluconate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate
Alpinia galanga extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Alpinia galanga extract
Linum usitatissimum seed oil~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Linum usitatissimum seed oil
Pentylene glycol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Pelargonium graveolens flower oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation

More about Pelargonium graveolens flower oil
Collagen amino acids~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function

More about Collagen amino acids
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Citronellol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Undaria pinnatifida extract~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Undaria pinnatifida extract
Citrus aurantifolia fruit extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Citrus aurantifolia fruit extract
Limonene~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Citric acid~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Linalool~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citral~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Moringa oleifera seed oil~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid

More about Moringa oleifera seed oil
Sodium hydroxide~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Rosa damascena flower extract~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower extract
Ingredient list view

Water, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Microcrystalline cellulose, Cetyl alcohol, Candelilla/jojoba/rice bran polyglyceryl-3 esters, Glyceryl stearate, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl alcohol, Sodium stearoyl lactylate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Tocopherol, Gossypium herbaceum seed oil, Cellulose gum, Butylene glycol, Xanthan gum, Elaeis guineensis oil, Parfum, Polyglutamic acid, Bidens pilosa extract, Sodium gluconate, Alpinia galanga extract, Linum usitatissimum seed oil, Pentylene glycol, Chlorphenesin, Sodium hyaluronate, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Collagen amino acids, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Citronellol, Geraniol, Undaria pinnatifida extract, Citrus aurantifolia fruit extract, Limonene, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Citric acid, Linalool, Citral, Moringa oleifera seed oil, Sodium hydroxide, Rosa damascena flower extract

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ESPAPhyto Collagen Plumping CreamYOUR PRODUCTOLIVARRIERComfort Barrier CreamPURE'AMAUTHENTIC BARRIER CREAM BALMMILK MAKEUPVegan Milk Moisturizer
Match—38%38%38%
Price—$12.48$36.99$17.77
Shared key ingredients—5 of 95 of 95 of 9
Key difference—Ceramide NpCeramide NpAgran Oil
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 20 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  3. 3
    Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
  4. 4
    Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  6. 6
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
ESPA Phyto Collagen Plumping Cream
ESPAPhyto Collagen Plumping Cream
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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.