ESPA Optimal Skin Pro-Cleanser

ESPA Optimal Skin Pro-Cleanser

Efficacy50/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Cleansing
Sucrose laurate, Sucrose stearate + 2 more
Cleanses gently
What the product description says
“Optimal Skin Pro-Cleanser”
Source: Espa

This product works by removing dirt and oil from the surface of the skin. It uses a combination of mild cleansing agents (linoleic acid, linolenic acid, sucrose laurate, sucrose stearate) and should be able to cleanse the skin gently. Still keep in mind that any cleansing can disrupt the skin barrier, and most people do not need to cleanse their skin more than once per day.

Sucrose laurateEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agent~2.2–3.3%
Sucrose stearateEffect: HighHelps water and oil mix together~0.5–1.2%
Linoleic acidEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.4–1%
Linolenic acidEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation~0.35–0.8%
Exfoliation
No ingredient credited for this claim
Not delivered
What the product description says
“The Optimal Skin Pro-Cleanser is a 3-in-1 skincare essential that works as a cleanser, gentle exfoliator and mask in one.”
Source: Espa

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
15 strong irritants: Limonene, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil + 13 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 27 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~1.1–1.7%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.9–1.35%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.35–0.85%est.
Citrus nobilis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.35–0.8%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil—High~0.15–0.65%est.
Cymbopogon nardus oil—High~0.15–0.6%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Jasminum officinale flower extractFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Litsea cubeba fruit oilAn essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
Rosa centifolia flower extractContains essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.5%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~23–34%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~5–7.5%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~1.7–2.5%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~1.4–2.2%est.
Levulinic acidHelps stabilize a product formulationMedium~0.5–1.2%est.
Echium plantagineum seed oilA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skinMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Sodium levulinateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.2–0.7%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.65%est.
Moringa oleifera seed extractHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant effectMedium~0.15–0.65%est.
Linolenic acidAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammationMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Moringa oleifera seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acidMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skin2/5~1.4–2.2%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~23–34%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glycerin~4.6–7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Jojoba esters~5–7.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Lactobacillus/pumpkin fruit ferment filtrate~3.8–5.8%
Formula
Water~2.7–4.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Sucrose laurate~2.2–3.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Sucrose laurate
Persea gratissima oil~1.7–2.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Coconut alkanes~1.4–2.2%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Coconut alkanes
Limonene~1.1–1.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.9–1.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Levulinic acid~0.5–1.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps stabilize a product formulation

More about Levulinic acid
Sucrose stearate~0.5–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sucrose stearate
Vaccinium vitis-idaea seed oil~0.45–1.1%
Formula
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil
Citrus nobilis peel oil~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus nobilis peel oil
Coco-caprylate/caprate~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Echium plantagineum seed oil~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin

More about Echium plantagineum seed oil
Linoleic acid~0.4–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid
Tocopherol~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Sodium levulinate~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium levulinate
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.2–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Parfum~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Cymbopogon nardus oil~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Linalool~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Geraniol~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Citric acid~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Maltodextrin~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Moringa oleifera seed extract~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant effect

More about Moringa oleifera seed extract
Jasminum officinale flower extract~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Jasminum officinale flower extract
Litsea cubeba fruit oil~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragrance

More about Litsea cubeba fruit oil
Rosa centifolia flower extract~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Contains essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Rosa centifolia flower extract
Linolenic acid~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingCleansingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Linolenic acid
Moringa oleifera seed oil~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid

More about Moringa oleifera seed oil
Sodium hydroxide~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Ingredient list view

Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Jojoba esters, Lactobacillus/pumpkin fruit ferment filtrate, Water, Sucrose laurate, Persea gratissima oil, Coconut alkanes, Limonene, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Levulinic acid, Sucrose stearate, Vaccinium vitis-idaea seed oil, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Citrus nobilis peel oil, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Echium plantagineum seed oil, Linoleic acid, Tocopherol, Sodium levulinate, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Parfum, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Cymbopogon nardus oil, Linalool, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Geraniol, Citric acid, Maltodextrin, Moringa oleifera seed extract, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Litsea cubeba fruit oil, Rosa centifolia flower extract, Linolenic acid, Moringa oleifera seed oil, Sodium hydroxide, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Rosa damascena flower oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ESPAOptimal Skin Pro-CleanserYOUR PRODUCTLOUMBe Calm Cleansing BalmGlossierMilky Jelly Cleansing Balm & Makeup RemoverHoliFrogKissimmee Vitamin F Cleansing Balm
Match—39%37%37%
Price$72.00$42.78−$29.22$23.58−$48.42$38.17−$33.83
Shared key ingredients—5 of 115 of 117 of 11
Key difference—CbdBeta-SitosterolCentella Asiatica Extract
Irritancy High Medium Low Low
Drying alcohol————
View product Shop Shop Shop

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.

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ESPA Optimal Skin Pro-Cleanser
ESPAOptimal Skin Pro-Cleanser

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