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ESPA Optimal Skin Overnight Booster
ESPA

ESPA Optimal Skin Overnight Booster

Efficacy0/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Evens skin tone
No ingredient credited for this claim
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Extract of Bidens Pilosa, a highly effective yet gentle source of natural Bio-Retinol, helps improve the appearance of fine lines for a smoother, more even skin tone.”
Source: Feelunique

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Anti-aging
Tocopherol
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Extract of Bidens Pilosa, a highly effective yet gentle source of natural Bio-Retinol, helps improve the appearance of fine lines for a smoother, more even skin tone.”
Source: Feelunique

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.75%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Oryza sativa bran oil, Coconut alkanes + 18 more
Works

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: helianthus annuus seed oil, plukenetia volubilis seed oil.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

Oryza sativa bran oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~22–33%
Coconut alkanesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin~6.3–9.4%
Canola oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin~4.7–7.1%
Oenothera biennis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~2.9–4.4%
Plukenetia volubilis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that works as a good moisturizer by softening the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin and reducing blemishes due to the large content of linoleic acid~1.6–2.3%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~1.2–1.7%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seedKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.9–1.35%
Nigella sativa seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acid~0.6–1.4%
Punica granatum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.55–1.25%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.45–1.1%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~0.45–1.05%
Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.4–0.95%
Elaeis guineensis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.4–1%
Echium plantagineum seed oilKey activeEffect: HighA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin~0.35–0.75%
Linolenic acidKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation~0.2–0.7%
Linum usitatissimum seed oilEffect: Low~2–2.9%
Moringa oleifera seed oil· EmollientEffect: LowA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid~0.15–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.75%
Rosa canina fruit oilUnder-dosedA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~1.7–2.5%
Linoleic acidUnder-dosedAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.4–0.95%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
14 strong irritants: Lavandula hybrida oil, Linalool + 12 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 23 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Lavandula hybrida oilPlant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergenHigh~0.35–0.75%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Eucalyptus globulus leaf oilAn essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oilAn essential oil. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and sensitizingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
EugenolA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Pogostemon cablin leaf oilUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.5%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Boswellia carterii oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.3%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~6.3–9.4%est.
Canola oilA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~4.7–7.1%est.
Oenothera biennis oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~2.9–4.4%est.
Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~1.7–2.5%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~1.2–1.7%est.
Nigella sativa seed oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acidMedium~0.6–1.4%est.
Echium plantagineum seed oilA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skinMedium~0.35–0.75%est.
Linolenic acidAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammationMedium~0.2–0.7%est.
Moringa oleifera seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acidMedium~0.15–0.6%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.3/5~0.35–0.85%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skin2/5~6.3–9.4%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Oryza sativa bran oil~22–33%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Oryza sativa bran oil
Coconut alkanes~6.3–9.4%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Coconut alkanes
Canola oil~4.7–7.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Canola oil
Camellia kissi seed oil~3.9–5.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Camellia kissi seed oil
Oenothera biennis oil~2.9–4.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemish

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Oenothera biennis oil
Linum usitatissimum seed oil~2–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Linum usitatissimum seed oil
Rosa canina fruit oil~1.7–2.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Plukenetia volubilis seed oil~1.6–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that works as a good moisturizer by softening the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin and reducing blemishes due to the large content of linoleic acid

More about Plukenetia volubilis seed oil
Olea europaea fruit oil~1.2–1.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed~0.9–1.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed
Nigella sativa seed oil~0.6–1.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acid

More about Nigella sativa seed oil
Punica granatum seed oil~0.55–1.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Punica granatum seed oil
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.45–1.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Coco-caprylate/caprate~0.45–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Gossypium herbaceum seed oil~0.35–0.85%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Cottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.

More about Gossypium herbaceum seed oil
Elaeis guineensis oil~0.4–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis oil
Borago officinalis seed oil~0.4–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil
Echium plantagineum seed oil~0.35–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin

More about Echium plantagineum seed oil
Linoleic acid~0.4–0.95%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingCleansingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid
Lavandula hybrida oil~0.35–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Plant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergen

More about Lavandula hybrida oil
Bidens pilosa extract~0.2–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Bidens pilosa extract
Tocopherol~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Mirabilis jalapa callus extract~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Mirabilis jalapa callus extract
Linalool~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil
Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oil~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and sensitizing

More about Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oil
Eugenol~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Eugenol
Juniperus mexicana oil~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Juniperus mexicana oil
Abies sibirica oil~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Abies sibirica oil
Cananga odorata flower oil~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil
Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens oil
Pogostemon cablin leaf oil~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Pogostemon cablin leaf oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Parfum~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Limonene~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Boswellia carterii oil~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Boswellia carterii oil
Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Geraniol~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Linolenic acid~0.2–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Linolenic acid
Moringa oleifera seed oil~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid

More about Moringa oleifera seed oil
Ingredient list view

Oryza sativa bran oil, Coconut alkanes, Canola oil, Camellia kissi seed oil, Oenothera biennis oil, Linum usitatissimum seed oil, Rosa canina fruit oil, Plukenetia volubilis seed oil, Olea europaea fruit oil, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed, Nigella sativa seed oil, Punica granatum seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Gossypium herbaceum seed oil, Elaeis guineensis oil, Borago officinalis seed oil, Echium plantagineum seed oil, Linoleic acid, Lavandula hybrida oil, Bidens pilosa extract, Tocopherol, Mirabilis jalapa callus extract, Linalool, Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oil, Eugenol, Juniperus mexicana oil, Abies sibirica oil, Cananga odorata flower oil, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Pogostemon cablin leaf oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Parfum, Limonene, Boswellia carterii oil, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Geraniol, Linolenic acid, Moringa oleifera seed oil

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≈ $38.09
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
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Match—28%27%26%
Price—$19.02—$105.00
Shared key ingredients—7 of 135 of 136 of 13
Key difference—Retinyl PalmitateKukui Nut OilAlgae Extract
Irritancy High High High High
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 24 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Study on the Composition of Rice Bran Oil and Its Higher Free Fatty Acids Valuelink.springer.com
  2. 2
    Canola Oilsciencedirect.com
  3. 3
    Chemical composition of Sacha Inchi ( Plukenetia volubilis L.) seeds and characteristics of their lipid fractionresearchgate.net
  4. 4
    Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oilonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  6. 6
    Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
ESPA Optimal Skin Overnight Booster
ESPAOptimal Skin Overnight Booster
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Find on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.