ESPA Optimal Skin Night Booster

ESPA Optimal Skin Night Booster

Efficacy25/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Oryza sativa bran oil, Coconut alkanes + 18 more
Works
What the product description says
“These ingredients work together to help support the skin’s natural barrier function.”
Source: Espa

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil.

Oryza sativa bran oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~22–33%
Coconut alkanesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin~5.5–8.2%
Canola oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin~4.7–7.1%
Oenothera biennis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~2.9–4.4%
Nigella sativa seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acid~1.6–2.4%
Punica granatum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.4–2.1%
Plukenetia volubilis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that works as a good moisturizer by softening the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin and reducing blemishes due to the large content of linoleic acid~1–1.5%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~0.6–1.4%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that softens the skin~0.55–1.25%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.5–1.15%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~0.45–1.05%
Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.4–0.9%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.4–0.95%
Elaeis guineensis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.95%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.35–0.85%
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.~0.35–0.85%
Linum usitatissimum seed oilEffect: Low~2–2.9%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.7%
Rosa canina fruit oilUnder-dosedA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~1.2–1.8%
Alaria esculenta extractUnder-dosedWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.15–0.65%
Anti-aging
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, Tocopherol + 1 more
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Extract of Bidens Pilosa, a highly effective yet gentle source of natural Bio-Retinol, helps improve the appearance of fine lines for a smoother, more even skin tone.”
Source: Espa

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin~0.55–1.25%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.7%
Alaria esculenta extractEffect: Low, below effective doseWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.15–0.65%
Evens skin tone
No ingredient credited for this claim
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Extract of Bidens Pilosa, a highly effective yet gentle source of natural Bio-Retinol, helps improve the appearance of fine lines for a smoother, more even skin tone.”
Source: Espa

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
13 strong irritants: Lavandula hybrida oil, Linalool + 11 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 21 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Lavandula hybrida oilPlant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergenHigh~0.35–0.75%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Eucalyptus globulus leaf oilAn essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oilAn essential oil. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and sensitizingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
EugenolA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
Boswellia carterii oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~5.5–8.2%est.
Canola oilA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~4.7–7.1%est.
Oenothera biennis oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~2.9–4.4%est.
Nigella sativa seed oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acidMedium~1.6–2.4%est.
Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~1.2–1.8%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~0.6–1.4%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.5–1.15%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.3/5~0.35–0.85%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skin2/5~5.5–8.2%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Oryza sativa bran oil~22–33%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Oryza sativa bran oil
Coconut alkanes~5.5–8.2%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Coconut alkanes
Canola oil~4.7–7.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Canola oil
Camellia kissi seed oil~3.9–5.8%
Formula
Oenothera biennis oil~2.9–4.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Oenothera biennis oil
Linum usitatissimum seed oil~2–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Linum usitatissimum seed oil
Nigella sativa seed oil~1.6–2.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acid

More about Nigella sativa seed oil
Punica granatum seed oil~1.4–2.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Punica granatum seed oil
Rosa canina fruit oil~1.2–1.8%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Plukenetia volubilis seed oil~1–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that works as a good moisturizer by softening the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin and reducing blemishes due to the large content of linoleic acid

More about Plukenetia volubilis seed oil
Olea europaea fruit oil~0.6–1.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil~0.55–1.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

An emollient that softens the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.5–1.15%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Coco-caprylate/caprate~0.45–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Glycerin~0.4–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Gossypium herbaceum seed oil~0.35–0.85%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Cottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.

More about Gossypium herbaceum seed oil
Elaeis guineensis oil~0.4–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis oil
Borago officinalis seed oil~0.4–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.35–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Lavandula hybrida oil~0.35–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Plant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergen

More about Lavandula hybrida oil
Bidens pilosa extract~0.2–0.7%
Formula
Mirabilis jalapa callus extract~0.2–0.7%
Formula
Linalool~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil
Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oil~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and sensitizing

More about Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oil
Tocopherol~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Eugenol~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Eugenol
Juniperus mexicana oil~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Alaria esculenta extract~0.15–0.65%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.

More about Alaria esculenta extract
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Abies sibirica oil~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Cananga odorata flower oil~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil
Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens oil
Limonene~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Parfum~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Boswellia carterii oil~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Boswellia carterii oil
Bulnesia sarmientoi wood oil~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Cistus ladaniferus oil~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Geraniol~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Benzyl benzoate~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Citric acid~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ingredient list view

Oryza sativa bran oil, Coconut alkanes, Canola oil, Camellia kissi seed oil, Oenothera biennis oil, Linum usitatissimum seed oil, Nigella sativa seed oil, Punica granatum seed oil, Rosa canina fruit oil, Plukenetia volubilis seed oil, Olea europaea fruit oil, Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Glycerin, Gossypium herbaceum seed oil, Elaeis guineensis oil, Borago officinalis seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Lavandula hybrida oil, Bidens pilosa extract, Mirabilis jalapa callus extract, Linalool, Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oil, Tocopherol, Eugenol, Juniperus mexicana oil, Alaria esculenta extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Abies sibirica oil, Cananga odorata flower oil, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Limonene, Parfum, Boswellia carterii oil, Bulnesia sarmientoi wood oil, Cistus ladaniferus oil, Geraniol, Benzyl benzoate, Citric acid

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Espa
$95.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ESPAOptimal Skin Night BoosterYOUR PRODUCTmid/nightFace Serum 00.22Lancer SkincareActive Rejuvenation Serum with Triple Dermal ComplexInstaNaturalAll-in-One Hydrating Night Serum
Match—34%33%31%
Price$95.00$53.00−$42.00$155.00+$60.00—
Shared key ingredients—4 of 103 of 105 of 10
Key difference—Sh-Polypeptide-9Oatmeal ExtractNiacinamide
Irritancy High Medium Medium High
Drying alcohol————
View product Shop Shop Shop

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Product summary

"ESPA - Optimal Skin Night Booster" is effective for: Anti-inflammatory

This product could be helpful for: Moisturizing, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • We love that there is also Linoleic Acid in this product (0.40% - 0.95%). Linoleic Acid is one of the skin's natural emollients. It supports the skin barrier and can even help reduce clogged pores.

Price

The product retails from 44.50A$ up to 89.00A$ in Australia, from 45.00$ up to 95.00$ in the United States and for 45.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 21 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
    Canola Oilsciencedirect.com
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
ESPA Optimal Skin Night Booster
ESPAOptimal Skin Night Booster

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