ESPA

ESPA Face Moisturisers Tri-Active Resilience Rest & Recovery Overnight Balm

Name: ESPA - Face Moisturisers Tri-Active Resilience Rest & Recovery Overnight Balm
Brand: ESPA

Efficacy37/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

17 ingredients credited for this claim

Good support

What the product description says

“Face Moisturisers Tri-Active Resilience Rest & Recovery Overnight Balm”

From product name

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: beeswax, butyrospermum parkii butter.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

BeeswaxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.55–1.25%

Theobroma cacao seed butterKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~2.1–3.2%

Mauritia flexuosa fruit oilKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.7%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.8–2.7%

Cera albaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.95–1.45%

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.9–5.9%

Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~4.5–6.8%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.2–0.75%

Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oilKey activeEffect: MediumA plant oil that might somewhat help to neutralize free radicals. It could be irritating~1.3–2%

Coco-caprylateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture~23–34%

Hydrogenated vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~4.8–7.2%

Moringa oleifera seed oil· EmollientEffect: LowA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid~0.45–1%

Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~0.35–0.85%

C15-19 alkaneEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~2.6–4%

Persea gratissima oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~0.4–0.95%

Rosa canina fruit oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~0.4–0.95%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.55%

Anti-blemish

No ingredient credited for this claim

No support

What the product description says

“Gently pat into the skin, then complete the application by cupping your hand over the nose and mouth, whilst taking 3 deep clearing breaths allowing the calming and soothing aroma to work its relaxing magic, preparing you for a restful night's sleep.”

Source: Allbeauty

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 6 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might contain antioxidants~0.15–0.6%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.9–5.9%

Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oilEffect: LowA plant oil that might somewhat help to neutralize free radicals. It could be irritating~1.3–2%

Theobroma cacao seed butterEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~2.1–3.2%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.55%

Rosa canina fruit oilEffect: Low, below effective doseA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~0.4–0.95%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

11 strong irritants: Parfum, Linalool + 9 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 20 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oilA plant oil that might somewhat help to neutralize free radicals. It could be irritatingHigh~1.3–2%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.85–1.3%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.7%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.65%est.

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.15–0.55%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.5%est.

Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extractA plant extract that might contain antioxidantsHigh~0.15–0.6%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.5%est.

Citrus nobilis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.15–0.55%est.

Litsea cubeba fruit oilAn essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragranceHigh~0.1–0.4%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.4%est.

Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.05–0.3%est.

Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.3%est.

Coco-caprylateAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product textureMedium~23–34%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.8–2.7%est.

Mauritia flexuosa fruit oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.1–1.7%est.

Cera albaForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergenMedium~0.95–1.45%est.

Moringa oleifera seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acidMedium~0.45–1%est.

Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~0.4–0.95%est.

Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~0.4–0.95%est.

Comedogenic

5 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

5 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~4.5–6.8%est.

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~3.9–5.9%est.

Theobroma cacao seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect3/5~2.1–3.2%est.

Himanthalia elongata extract—3/5~0.3–0.7%est.

Hydrogenated vegetable oilAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~4.8–7.2%est.

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Ingredients

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Coco-caprylate~23–34%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture

More about Coco-caprylate

Hydrogenated vegetable oil~4.8–7.2%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable oil

Cocos nucifera oil~4.5–6.8%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil

Butyrospermum parkii butter~3.9–5.9%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

C15-19 alkane~2.6–4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about C15-19 alkane

Theobroma cacao seed butter~2.1–3.2%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-dandruff

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Theobroma cacao seed butter

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.8–2.7%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oil~1.3–2%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that might somewhat help to neutralize free radicals. It could be irritating

More about Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oil

Mauritia flexuosa fruit oil~1.1–1.7%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Mauritia flexuosa fruit oil

Parfum~0.85–1.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Cera alba~0.95–1.45%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingCleansing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Cera alba

Beeswax~0.55–1.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Beeswax

Silica~0.85–1.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica

Moringa oleifera seed oil~0.45–1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid

More about Moringa oleifera seed oil

Persea gratissima oil~0.4–0.95%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil

Rosa canina fruit oil~0.4–0.95%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil

Octyldodecanol~0.35–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol

Himanthalia elongata extract~0.3–0.7%

Comedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

More about Himanthalia elongata extract

Linalool~0.2–0.7%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Limonene~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.2–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil

Citronellol~0.1–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol

Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract~0.15–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might contain antioxidants

More about Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract

Geraniol~0.1–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol

Citrus nobilis peel oil~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus nobilis peel oil

Tocopherol~0.15–0.55%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Pogostemon cablin leaf extract~0.1–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Pogostemon cablin leaf extract

Litsea cubeba fruit oil~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

An essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragrance

More about Litsea cubeba fruit oil

Citral~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral

Cedrus atlantica bark oil~0.1–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cedrus atlantica bark oil

Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.05–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil

Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.1–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil

Ingredient list view

Coco-caprylate, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Cocos nucifera oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, C15-19 alkane, Theobroma cacao seed butter, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oil, Mauritia flexuosa fruit oil, Parfum, Cera alba, Beeswax, Silica, Moringa oleifera seed oil, Persea gratissima oil, Rosa canina fruit oil, Octyldodecanol, Himanthalia elongata extract, Linalool, Limonene, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Citronellol, Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, Geraniol, Citrus nobilis peel oil, Tocopherol, Pogostemon cablin leaf extract, Litsea cubeba fruit oil, Citral, Cedrus atlantica bark oil, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil