Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Exfoliation
- Anti-aging
- Moisturizing
- Evens skin tone
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-blemish
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
With the 10% Fruit Acid Combination AHA's (5% Glycolic Acid and 5% Lactic Acid) this regenerative charcoal serum speeds up the cell renewal process, helping to maintain a soft and smooth youthful-looking complexion.
Source: Sephora AU
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: lactic acid.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Evens skin tone
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid, lactic acid
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
Exfoliation
What does the product description say?
Detoxifying Exfoliating Charcoal Serum
Source: From product name
This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid, lactic acid.
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Luxurious 24K gold flakes provide skin plumping and regenerative action .
Source: Sephora AU
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
lactic acid, caprylyl glycol.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cocos nucifera oil, vitis vinifera seed oil.
A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties
Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Help soften the upper layer of the skin and make it easier for oil and water mix together. Recently, a rising number of allergic reactions to cocoglycerides and other coconut-derived surfactants has been reported. As there is a significant overlap between frequent irritants and allergens, we flag this ingredient for attention of those with very sensitive, reactive skin
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
This serum is ideal for most skin types, tackling blackheads, acne, and underlying skin congestion to draw out impurities, smooth rough skin and polish away pore-clogging debris.
Source: Sephora AU
This product contains ingredients (glycolic acid) that could help reduce blemishes and clogged pores in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Exfoliation | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 81/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Esmi Skin Minerals Detoxifying Exfoliating Charcoal Serum | Current | $65.00 | |
 Silki AHA Complex - 3% Lactic and 2% Glycolic acids and Citrus Fruit Extracts Serum | 60% | $189.00 | |
REVOLUTION SKINCARE Multi Acid AHA and BHA Peel Serum | 60% | $10.00 | |
 Ambari PM Active 12 Serum | 58% | $98.00 | |
 Formotopia BFFECT AHA 30% + Mandelic Acid 4% Serum | 58% | $18.10 | |
Facile Clear Serum | 58% | $38.00 |
Key Actives
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties
Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
Potential irritants
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity
Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity
Help soften the upper layer of the skin and make it easier for oil and water mix together. Recently, a rising number of allergic reactions to cocoglycerides and other coconut-derived surfactants has been reported. As there is a significant overlap between frequent irritants and allergens, we flag this ingredient for attention of those with very sensitive, reactive skin
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking
A plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compounds
A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Comedogenic ingredients
An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
All ingredients
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking
Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compounds
A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity
Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity
Help soften the upper layer of the skin and make it easier for oil and water mix together. Recently, a rising number of allergic reactions to cocoglycerides and other coconut-derived surfactants has been reported. As there is a significant overlap between frequent irritants and allergens, we flag this ingredient for attention of those with very sensitive, reactive skin
An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract, Saccharum officinarum extract, Acer saccharum extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract, Cocoglycerides, Cocos nucifera oil, Unknown, Charcoal, Vitis vinifera seed oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Gold
- Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acid
- Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
- Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
- Lonicera caerulea and Vaccinium myrtillus fruit polyphenols protect HaCaT keratinocytes against UVB-induced phototoxic stress and DNA damage
- Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects. 2nd edition.
- Safety Assessment of Citrus Fruit-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- Photosensitivity in children: An approach to diagnosis and management
- Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmetics