esmi Pomegranate Brightening Serum

esmi Pomegranate Brightening Serum

Efficacy75/100IrritancyLow

Works for

Evens skin tone
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract + 1 more
May help
What the product description says
“- Brightens and lightens uneven skin tone”
Source: esmi

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~3.4–5.1%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.9–1.3%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.15–0.65%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Ubiquinone + 4 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~3.4–5.1%
UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.01–0.05%
Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin, but evidence is lacking~2.4–3.6%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.9–1.3%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.15–0.65%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.01–0.1%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Oligopeptide-68, Glycerin + 4 more
Works well

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": glycerin, mannitol.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: oligopeptide-68

Oligopeptide-68HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.55%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.5–2.3%
MannitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.75%
UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.01–0.05%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~4.9–7.4%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.45–1.05%
Anti-aging
Side benefit the brand mentions · Oligopeptide-68, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid + 2 more
May help
What the product description says
“A potent brightening, anti-pigmentation serum with powerful melanin inhibitors and skin lightening ingredients and powerful antioxidants.”
Source: N/A

This product contains oligopeptide-68. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Oligopeptide-68Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.55%
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidEffect: LowA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~3.4–5.1%
UbiquinoneEffect: LowCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.01–0.05%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.15–0.65%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 11 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsHigh~3.4–5.1%est.
Ci 16035A red dyeHigh~0.01–0.05%est.
Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin, but evidence is lackingMedium~2.4–3.6%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.9–1.3%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.45–1.05%est.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very highMedium~0.15–0.65%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.5%est.
Sodium oleateHelps oil and water mix together and create a thicker product consistencyMedium~0.4–0.95%est.
Hydroxypropyl methylcelluloseUsed to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the formulationMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.2%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.01–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Ci 16035A red dye3/5~0.01–0.05%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Butylene glycol~4.9–7.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid~3.4–5.1%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract~2.4–3.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin, but evidence is lacking

More about Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract
Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract~1.8–2.7%
Formula
Glycerin~1.5–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.9–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Punica granatum pericarp extract~1.1–1.7%
Formula
Xanthan gum~0.9–1.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl glycol~0.45–1.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Mannitol~0.3–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Mannitol
Cellulose~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Can be used to help absorb oil as well as add volume and imporve texture of products.

More about Cellulose
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

A derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high

More about Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
Disodium edta~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Oligopeptide-68~0.15–0.55%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Oligopeptide-68
Sodium oleate~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together and create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium oleate
Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the formulation

More about Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose
Beetroot red~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Beetroot red
Beta vulgaris root powder~0.05–0.3%
Formula
Citric acid~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ci 77489~0.05–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77489
Maltodextrin~0.05–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Tocopheryl acetate~0.01–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Ubiquinone~0.01–0.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Ubiquinone
Ci 16035~0.01–0.05%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Comedogenicity
3/5

A red dye

More about Ci 16035
Ingredient list view

Water, Butylene glycol, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract, Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract, Glycerin, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Punica granatum pericarp extract, Xanthan gum, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol, Mannitol, Cellulose, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Disodium edta, Hydrogenated lecithin, Oligopeptide-68, Sodium oleate, Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, Beetroot red, Beta vulgaris root powder, Citric acid, Ci 77489, Maltodextrin, Tocopheryl acetate, Ubiquinone, Ci 16035

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
esmiPomegranate Brightening SerumYOUR PRODUCTEsmi Skin MineralsPomegranate Brightening SerumBiopelleEmepelle SerumSKKN by KimVitamin C8 Serum
Match—70%45%45%
Price——$175.00—
Shared key ingredients—5 of 52 of 52 of 5
Key difference——NiacinamideHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Irritancy Low Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"esmi - Pomegranate Brightening Serum" is effective for: Moisturizing

This product could be helpful for: Anti-aging and Evens skin tone, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • Peptides (oligopeptide-68 0.15% - 0.50%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that theynare helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
  • Humectants (mannitol 0.30% - 0.75% and glycerin 1.50% - 2.30%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

esmi Pomegranate Brightening Serum
esmiPomegranate Brightening Serum

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