Epicuren Ultra Rose Treat Enzyme Moisturizer

Epicuren Ultra Rose Treat Enzyme Moisturizer

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Panthenol, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil + 16 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Helps dehydrated skin to appear replenished and moisturized.”
Source: Epicuren

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: hydrolyzed collagen, aloe barbadensis leaf extract.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, carthamus tinctorius seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.2–0.35%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~6.5–8%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.7–5.7%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~3–3.7%
Hydrolyzed collagenKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.9–2.4%
Sesamum indicum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function~0.9–1.1%
Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~0.65–1%
Limnanthes alba seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~0.2–0.35%
Vitis vinifera seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~0.15–0.3%
Rosa canina seed oilKey activeEffect: HighA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It might have anti-oxidant properties. Might help reduce inflammation in skin and help against blemishes~0.1–0.2%
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~1.2–1.4%
BiotinEffect: LowMight have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect~0.3–0.55%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
NiacinUnder-dosedA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.3–0.6%
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilUnder-dosedAn emollient that helps soften the skin~0.25–0.4%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.25–0.45%
Persea gratissima oilUnder-dosedAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~0.2–0.35%
AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Citrus grandis seed extract, Retinyl palmitate + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 18 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rose extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~1.3–1.6%est.
Citrus grandis seed extract—High~0.45–0.65%est.
Chamomilla recutita extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
NiacinA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effectHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Santalum album oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~4.7–5.7%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~2.2–2.7%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~1.2–1.4%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.2–0.4%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~0.25–0.4%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Vitis vinifera seed oilA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Rosa canina seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It might have anti-oxidant properties. Might help reduce inflammation in skin and help against blemishesMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~0.65–1%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~3–3.7%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties2/5~0.3–0.55%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~6.5–8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~4.7–5.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Cetearyl alcohol~3–3.7%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Tocopheryl acetate~2.2–2.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Hydrolyzed collagen~1.9–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed collagen
Amino acids
Not recognized
Hydrolyzed elastin~1.6–2%
Formula
Amino acids
Not recognized
Rose extract~1.3–1.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rose extract
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~1.2–1.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract
Sesamum indicum seed oil~0.9–1.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function

More about Sesamum indicum seed oil
Ethylhexyl palmitate~0.65–1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate
Citrus grandis seed extract~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Chamomilla recutita extract~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita extract
Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Biotin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect

More about Biotin
Niacin~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect

More about Niacin
Riboflavin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Riboflavin
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Allantoin~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces rednessReduces irritationExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Ceteareth-20~0.3–0.55%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties

More about Ceteareth-20
Sorbitan stearate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate
Retinyl palmitate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Prunus armeniaca kernel oil~0.25–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Prunus armeniaca kernel oil
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Jasminum officinale oil~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Panthenol~0.2–0.35%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Lecithin~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Limnanthes alba seed oil~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient

More about Limnanthes alba seed oil
Persea gratissima oil~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Vitis vinifera seed oil~0.15–0.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties

More about Vitis vinifera seed oil
Rosa canina seed oil~0.1–0.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It might have anti-oxidant properties. Might help reduce inflammation in skin and help against blemishes

More about Rosa canina seed oil
Santalum album oil~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Santalum album oil
Propanediol~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Ingredient list view

Water, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cetearyl alcohol, Tocopheryl acetate, Hydrolyzed collagen, Unknown, Hydrolyzed elastin, Unknown, Rose extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Sesamum indicum seed oil, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Citrus grandis seed extract, Chamomilla recutita extract, Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract, Biotin, Niacin, Riboflavin, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Allantoin, Ascorbyl palmitate, Ceteareth-20, Sorbitan stearate, Retinyl palmitate, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Jasminum officinale oil, Panthenol, Lecithin, Limnanthes alba seed oil, Persea gratissima oil, Vitis vinifera seed oil, Rosa canina seed oil, Santalum album oil, Propanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
EpicurenUltra Rose Treat Enzyme MoisturizerYOUR PRODUCTElizabeth GrantCollagen Re-Inforce 3D Advanced 24HR Face CreamDerma EVitamin E 12,000 IU CreamDanne Montague-KingDMK Pro Amino Creme
Match—59%58%58%
Price$67.10—$15.00−$52.10$29.10−$38.00
Shared key ingredients—5 of 145 of 144 of 14
Key difference—Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7GlycerinPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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