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Epicuren Glycolic Lotion Skin Peel 10%
Epicuren

Epicuren Glycolic Lotion Skin Peel 10%

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Exfoliation
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Magic in a bottle! 🎩 🌙 Our Glycolic Lotion Skin Peel gently exfoliates the skin and boost cell turnover leaving you with vibrant, youthful looking skin.”
Source: Epicuren

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.5–0.75%
Retinyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.2–0.35%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.3–0.5%
Anti-aging
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Magic in a bottle! 🎩 🌙 Our Glycolic Lotion Skin Peel gently exfoliates the skin and boost cell turnover leaving you with vibrant, youthful looking skin.”
Source: Epicuren

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.5–0.75%
NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.45–0.7%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.2–0.35%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.45%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.5–0.75%
NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.45–0.7%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.2–0.35%
Moisturizing
Not advertised by the brand · 13 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: caprylic/capric triglyceride, carthamus tinctorius seed oil.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.4–5.4%
Sesamum indicum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function~1–1.3%
Collagen amino acidsKey activeEffect: HighHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function~1.8–2.1%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~3.3–4%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.5–3%
Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~6.1–7.4%
BiotinEffect: LowMight have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect~0.45–0.7%
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~1.3–1.6%
NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: HighA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.45–0.7%
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin~0.2–0.4%
PanthenolUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.15–0.3%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.3–0.5%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Citrus grandis seed extract, Retinyl palmitate
Medium risk
We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus grandis seed extract—High~0.65–1%est.
Chamomilla recutita extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.6–0.9%est.
Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.5–0.75%est.
NiacinA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effectHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~4.4–5.4%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~2–2.4%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~1.3–1.6%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~6.1–7.4%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.5–3%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties2/5~0.35–0.6%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Ethylhexyl palmitate~6.1–7.4%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~4.4–5.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~3.3–4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil
Cetearyl alcohol~2.5–3%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Tocopheryl acetate~2–2.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Hydrolyzed
Not recognized
Collagen amino acids~1.8–2.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function

More about Collagen amino acids
Hydrolyzed
Not recognized
Elastin amino acids~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Elastin amino acids
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~1.3–1.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract
Sesamum indicum seed oil~1–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function

More about Sesamum indicum seed oil
Citrus grandis seed extract~0.65–1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus grandis seed extract
Chamomilla recutita extract~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita extract
Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract
Glycolic acid~0.5–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneExfoliationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Biotin~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect

More about Biotin
Niacin~0.45–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect

More about Niacin
Riboflavin~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Riboflavin
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Allantoin~0.3–0.5%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishReduces rednessReduces irritationExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Ceteareth-20~0.35–0.6%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties

More about Ceteareth-20
Sorbitan stearate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate
Retinyl palmitate~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Prunus armeniaca kernel oil~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Prunus armeniaca kernel oil
Panthenol~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Lecithin~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Propanediol~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Ingredient list view

Water, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Cetearyl alcohol, Tocopheryl acetate, Unknown, Collagen amino acids, Unknown, Elastin amino acids, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Sesamum indicum seed oil, Citrus grandis seed extract, Chamomilla recutita extract, Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract, Glycolic acid, Biotin, Niacin, Riboflavin, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Allantoin, Ascorbyl palmitate, Ceteareth-20, Sorbitan stearate, Retinyl palmitate, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Panthenol, Lecithin, Propanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 9 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Protein and oil composition of sesame seeds (Sesamum indicum, L.) grown in the Gizan area of Saudi Arabiatandfonline.com
  2. 2
    Triglyceride composition of Sesamum indicum seed oilonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  3. 3
    Seed oil content and fatty acid composition in East African sesame (Sesamum indicum L.) accessions evaluated over 3 yearssciencedirect.com
  4. 4
    Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinmdpi.com
Epicuren Glycolic Lotion Skin Peel 10%
EpicurenGlycolic Lotion Skin Peel 10%
Buy at Epicuren$37.52$58.08as of 10/11 15:24 GMT

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Epicuren$37.52$58.08as of 10/11 15:24 GMT

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.