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Embryolisse Embryoderme Face Cream
Embryolisse

Embryolisse Embryoderme Face Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
Linoleic acid, Paraffinum liquidum + 17 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Specially developed for mature and dry skin types, the Embryoderme Face Cream from Embryolisse deeply nourishes the skin.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydrolyzed collagen.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, cera alba.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: linoleic acid, paraffinum liquidum

Prunus amygdalus dulcis seedKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~3–3.7%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.4–2.9%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.7–2%
Cera albaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.5–0.75%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2–2.4%
Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.55–0.85%
Hydrolyzed collagenKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%
Linoleic acidHero· EmollientEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.6–0.9%
Linolenic acidKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation~0.55–0.8%
Paraffinum liquidumHero· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighMineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function~4.3–5.2%
Hydrolyzed soy proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.05–0.1%
Aloe barbadensis extract· HumectantEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.05–0.1%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.65–1%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~6.3–7.7%
C13-14 isoparaffin· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency~0.2–0.4%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.35–0.6%
Triticum vulgare germ extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance~0.3–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.95–1.15%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · Retinyl palmitate, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 1 more
Moderate evidence

This product contains retinyl palmitate. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.35–0.6%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.7–2%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.95–1.15%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · Retinyl palmitate, Hydrolyzed soy protein
Moderate evidence

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: retinyl palmitate.

Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.35–0.6%
Hydrolyzed soy proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.05–0.1%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Retinyl palmitate, Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.35–0.6%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
TriethanolamineUsed to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smellMedium~1.4–1.7%est.
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.2–1.4%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.55–0.85%est.
Linolenic acidAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammationMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.45–0.65%est.
Cera albaForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergenMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Steareth-10Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intoleranceMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
PolyacrylamideUsed to improve product texture and help oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.4%est.
Laureth-7Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Aloe barbadensis extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
4 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.7–2%est.
Steareth-10Helps oil and water mix together3/5~0.35–0.6%est.
Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance3/5~0.3–0.6%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.55–0.85%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glyceryl stearate~6.3–7.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Paraffinum liquidum~4.3–5.2%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Mineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function

More about Paraffinum liquidum
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed~3–3.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed
Squalane~2.4–2.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Glycerin~2–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.7–2%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Triethanolamine~1.4–1.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smell

More about Triethanolamine
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil~1.2–1.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil
Tocopherol~0.95–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Butylene glycol~0.65–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Glycine soja oil~0.55–0.85%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Linoleic acid~0.6–0.9%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingCleansingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid
Linolenic acid~0.55–0.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Linolenic acid
Tocopheryl acetate~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Retinyl palmitate~0.35–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Cera alba~0.5–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Cera alba
Steareth-10~0.35–0.6%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-10
Triticum vulgare germ extract~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Plant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance

More about Triticum vulgare germ extract
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.35–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Phenoxyethanol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Hydrolyzed elastin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hydrolyzed elastin
1,2-hexanediol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Tropolone~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Tropolone
Potassium sorbate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium benzoate~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Polyacrylamide~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to improve product texture and help oil and water mix together

More about Polyacrylamide
C13-14 isoparaffin~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency

More about C13-14 isoparaffin
Laureth-7~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Laureth-7
Parfum~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Hydrolyzed collagen~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed collagen
Hydrolyzed soy protein~0.05–0.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing

More about Hydrolyzed soy protein
Aloe barbadensis extract~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis extract
Ingredient list view

Water, Glyceryl stearate, Paraffinum liquidum, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed, Squalane, Glycerin, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Triethanolamine, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Tocopherol, Butylene glycol, Glycine soja oil, Linoleic acid, Linolenic acid, Tocopheryl acetate, Retinyl palmitate, Cera alba, Steareth-10, Triticum vulgare germ extract, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrolyzed elastin, 1,2-hexanediol, Caprylyl glycol, Tropolone, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Parfum, Hydrolyzed collagen, Hydrolyzed soy protein, Aloe barbadensis extract

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Embryolisse - Embryoderme Face Cream" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Embryolisse - Embryoderme Face Cream ticks this box. Glycerin, hydrolyzed collagen, aloe barbadensis extract, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Linoleic acid, paraffinum liquidum, glycine soja oil, hydrolyzed collagen and linolenic acid in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer includes a form of retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.30% - 0.60%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
  • We love that there is also Linoleic Acid in this moisturizer (0.65% - 0.95%). Linoleic Acid is one of the skin's natural emollients. It supports the skin barrier and can even help reduce clogged pores.

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Embryolisse" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Price

The product retails for 32.95$ in the United States and for 32.95£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 14 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oilncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Amended Safety Assessment of PEGylated Oils as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  4. 4
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
  6. 6
    The Permeability Barrier in Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency: Evidence for a Direct Role for Linoleic Acid in Barrier Functionsciencedirect.com
Embryolisse Embryoderme Face Cream
EmbryolisseEmbryoderme Face Cream
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Find on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.