PRODUCT REVIEW
Dr. Russo Once a Day SPF30 Sun Protective Eye Cream Serum
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Sun protection
diethylhexyl butamido triazone
1.7% -
2.6%
Irritation risk:
UVA I protection: UVA II protection: UVB protection: Photo stable: Ingredient type Organic
Uvasorb HEB. A UV filter. Is effective against UVB and UVA II rays (but not UVA I). It is photostable. Unfortunately, is not approved by FDA (US) yet
Irritation risk:
UVA I protection: UVA II protection: UVB protection: Photo stable: Ingredient type Organic
Uvinul A Plus. A new generation broad spectrum sunscreen that offers an effective protection especially in the UVA range. It is stable in formulations. Unfortunately, is not approved by the FDA (US) yet
bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine
0.95% -
1.4%
Irritation risk:
UVA I protection: UVA II protection: UVB protection: Photo stable: Ingredient type Organic
Tinosorb S. One of the most effective broad spectrum sunscreen ingredients. Protects from both UVA and UVB rays. It is photostable. Unfortunately, not approved by FDA (US) yet.
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Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Exposure to UVA can intensify signs of ageing over time, meaning the serum can help you to achieve a more youthful illusion for longer.
ferulic acid
0.05% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%
sodium ascorbyl phosphate
0.05% -
0.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
retinyl palmitate
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Evens skin tone
ferulic acid
0.05% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%
retinyl palmitate
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
With a whole host of skin-loving ingredients, the gel nourishes and hydrates your complexion with Vitamin E and Hyaluronic Acid.
squalene
0.2% -
0.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
avena sativa kernel extract
3.9% -
5.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties
panthenol
0.05% -
0.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
Anti-oxidation
ferulic acid
0.05% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%
squalene
0.2% -
0.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
sodium ascorbyl phosphate
0.05% -
0.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Sun protection | |
| Anti-aging |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
90/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Potential irritants
alcohol
2.9% -
4.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Antibacterial
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
1.4% -
2.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Sun protection
Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating
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Comodogenic ingredients
squalene
0.2% -
0.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
User reviews (0)
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| SPF | SPF 30 | SPF 50 | SPF 50 | SPF 30 | SPF 45 | SPF 50 | SPF 50 | SPF 50 | SPF 50 | SPF 30 | SPF 50 |
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MEDIUM
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LOW
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LOW
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LOW
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
avena sativa kernel extract
3.9% -
5.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-inflammatory,
Reduces irritation,
Moisturizing,
Reduces redness,
Anti-oxidation
An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties
ferulic acid
0.05% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-inflammatory
A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%
Show more
Potential irritants
alcohol
2.9% -
4.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Antibacterial
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
1.4% -
2.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Sun protection
Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
squalene
0.2% -
0.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
All ingredients
avena sativa kernel extract
3.9% -
5.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-inflammatory,
Reduces irritation,
Moisturizing,
Reduces redness,
Anti-oxidation
An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Disodium edta, Avena sativa kernel extract, Alcohol, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Phenoxyethyl caprylate, Butyloctyl salicylate, Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Stearyl alcohol, Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Squalene, Polysorbate 60, Tocopheryl acetate, Retinyl palmitate, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Panthenol, Ferulic acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Sources
- Safety assessment of Salicylic Acid, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Calcium Salicylate, C12-15 Alkyl Salicylate, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Hexyldodecyl Salicylate, Isocetyl Salicylate, Isodecyl Salicylate, Magnesium Salicylate, MEA-Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Potassium Salicylate, Methyl Salicylate, Myristyl Salicylate, Sodium Salicylate, TEA-Salicylate, and Tridecyl Salicylate
- Squalene and its potential clinical uses
- Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology
- Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by squalene and oleic acid peroxides
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsions
- Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmetics
- Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphate
- Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatment
- Application of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in topical cosmetic formulations: stability studies
- Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Ferulic Acid: Therapeutic Potential Through Its Antioxidant Property
- Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin