Dr. Russo

Dr. Russo Once a Day SPF30 Sun Protective Day Moisturiser

Name: Dr. Russo - Once a Day SPF30 Sun Protective Day Moisturiser
Brand: Dr. Russo

SPF 30Efficacy90/100IrritancyMedium·5 UV filters

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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Sun protection

SPF 30 · 5 UV filters

Broad spectrum

SPF 30Broad spectrumChemical filtersNo white cast

This product offers a good level of protection against both UVB and UVA rays.

This sunscreen uses organic (so-called "chemical") sunscreen filters. Organic, or "chemical" filters usually provide reliable sun protection and rarely leave a white cast. Sunscreens with organic filters can sting eyes.

UV spectrum

UVB290–320 nmUVA II320–340 nmUVA I340–400 nm

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Octinoxate

Tinosorb S

Uvasorb Heb

Uvinul A Plus

FilterCoverageWhat it doesEst. amount

Butyloctyl SalicylateUVBA synthetic ester of salicylic acid that is used to help disperse pigments and boost effectiveness of sunscreen ingredients. It is able to absorb UV light (working as an organic, or chemical filter), but is not approved as a sunscreen ingredient on its own~1.5–2.2%

OctinoxateEthylhexyl MethoxycinnamateUVBOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating~1.4–2.1%

Tinosorb SBis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl TriazineUVBUVA Photo-stable Tinosorb S. One of the most effective broad spectrum sunscreen ingredients. Protects from both UVA and UVB rays. It is photostable. Unfortunately, not approved by FDA (US) yet.~0.95–1.4%

Uvasorb HebDiethylhexyl Butamido TriazoneUVA2 Photo-stable Uvasorb HEB. A UV filter. Is effective against UVB and UVA II rays (but not UVA I). It is photostable. Unfortunately, is not approved by FDA (US) yet~1.7–2.6%

Uvinul A PlusDiethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl BenzoateUVA1 Photo-stable Uvinul A Plus. A new generation broad spectrum sunscreen that offers an effective protection especially in the UVA range. It is stable in formulations. Unfortunately, is not approved by the FDA (US) yet~1–1.6%

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product offers broad spectrum sun protection. It means that it can prevent hyperpigmentation and help keep the skin tone even (sun damage is the main factor causing age spots, darkening of post-acne marks and other discolorations).

Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.05–0.15%

Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.05–0.25%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 5 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (ferulic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - squalene also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: HighA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.05–0.15%

SqualeneKey activeEffect: MediumAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.2–0.7%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.05–0.2%

Avena sativa kernel extractEffect: Low, below effective doseAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~3.9–5.8%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.1–0.4%

Moisturizing

Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim

Good support

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: squalene.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

SqualeneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.2–0.7%

Avena sativa kernel extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~3.9–5.8%

PanthenolUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.05–0.2%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Retinyl palmitate

Medium risk

We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~2.9–4.3%est.

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamateOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritatingHigh~1.4–2.1%est.

Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.05–0.25%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.5–1%est.

Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~2.1–3.1%est.

Butyloctyl salicylateA synthetic ester of salicylic acid that is used to help disperse pigments and boost effectiveness of sunscreen ingredients. It is able to absorb UV light (working as an organic, or chemical filter), but is not approved as a sunscreen ingredient on its ownMedium~1.5–2.2%est.

Diethylhexyl butamido triazoneUvasorb HEB. A UV filter. Is effective against UVB and UVA II rays (but not UVA I). It is photostable. Unfortunately, is not approved by FDA (US) yetMedium~1.7–2.6%est.

Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoateUvinul A Plus. A new generation broad spectrum sunscreen that offers an effective protection especially in the UVA range. It is stable in formulations. Unfortunately, is not approved by the FDA (US) yetMedium~1–1.6%est.

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazineTinosorb S. One of the most effective broad spectrum sunscreen ingredients. Protects from both UVA and UVB rays. It is photostable. Unfortunately, not approved by FDA (US) yet.Medium~0.95–1.4%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.2–0.7%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.1–0.5%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.1–0.4%est.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~0.05–0.2%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.01–0.1%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

SqualeneAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast2/5~0.2–0.7%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Disodium edta~0.5–1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Avena sativa kernel extract~3.9–5.8%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-oxidation

An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties

More about Avena sativa kernel extract

Alcohol~2.9–4.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol

Potassium cetyl phosphate~2.1–3.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate

Phenoxyethyl caprylate~1.8–2.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Phenoxyethyl caprylate

Butyloctyl salicylate~1.5–2.2%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

A synthetic ester of salicylic acid that is used to help disperse pigments and boost effectiveness of sunscreen ingredients. It is able to absorb UV light (working as an organic, or chemical filter), but is not approved as a sunscreen ingredient on its own

More about Butyloctyl salicylate

Diethylhexyl butamido triazone~1.7–2.6%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

Uvasorb HEB. A UV filter. Is effective against UVB and UVA II rays (but not UVA I). It is photostable. Unfortunately, is not approved by FDA (US) yet

More about Diethylhexyl butamido triazone

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate~1.4–2.1%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Sun protection

Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating

More about Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate

Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate~1–1.6%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

Uvinul A Plus. A new generation broad spectrum sunscreen that offers an effective protection especially in the UVA range. It is stable in formulations. Unfortunately, is not approved by the FDA (US) yet

More about Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine~0.95–1.4%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

Tinosorb S. One of the most effective broad spectrum sunscreen ingredients. Protects from both UVA and UVB rays. It is photostable. Unfortunately, not approved by FDA (US) yet.

More about Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine

Stearyl alcohol~0.4–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Stearyl alcohol

Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer~0.35–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Helps thicken the product consistency

More about Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.2–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Squalene~0.2–0.7%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast

More about Squalene

Polysorbate 60~0.1–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Tocopheryl acetate~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Retinyl palmitate~0.05–0.25%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~0.05–0.2%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate

Panthenol~0.05–0.2%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Ferulic acid~0.05–0.15%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-inflammatory

A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%

More about Ferulic acid

Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.01–0.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Ingredient list view

Water, Disodium edta, Avena sativa kernel extract, Alcohol, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Phenoxyethyl caprylate, Butyloctyl salicylate, Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Stearyl alcohol, Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Squalene, Polysorbate 60, Tocopheryl acetate, Retinyl palmitate, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Panthenol, Ferulic acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, we believe that "Dr. Russo - Once a Day SPF30 Sun Protective Day Moisturiser" can offer reliable sun protection. We love that it can protect from both UVA and UVB rays (not all sunscreens with SPF ratings give UVA protection. UVA rays do not cause sunburn, but still damage our skin and lead to early aging).

Its formula is also hydrating, so you might not need an additional moistruizer during the day.

Sunscreen filters

This is a so-called "chemical" sunscreen. It means that it uses organic UV filters. They typically offer good sun protection and rarely leave a white cast, but they can be irritating for some people with sensitive skin. Here are the exact UV filters in this sunscreen: tinosorb s 0.95% - 1.40%, butyloctyl salicylate 1.50% - 2.20%, uvinul a plus 1.00% - 1.60%, uvasorb heb 1.70% - 2.60% and octinoxate 1.40% - 2.10%.

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 28.95$ up to 40.00$ in the United States, for 50.70CA$ in Canada and for 28.95£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 16 studies and safety reviews.

Dr. RussoOnce a Day SPF30 Sun Protective Day Moisturiser

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.