What's In My Jar
Dr Roebuck's Darling Lip Therapy
Dr Roebuck's

Dr Roebuck's Darling Lip Therapy

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
11 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Dr Roebuck's Darling is a super-nourishing lip balm to hydrate and protect this delicate skin.”
Source: Skinstore

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: terminalia ferdinandiana seed oil.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, ricinus communis seed oil.

Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.4–0.9%
Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.6–1.4%
Ricinus communis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~2.3–3.4%
Terminalia ferdinandiana seed oilKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.8%
Helianthus annuus seed waxKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency~0.2–0.8%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~23–34%
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~5.4–8.1%
Canola oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin~4.6–6.9%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~3.7–5.6%
Olea europaea oil unsaponifiablesKey activeEffect: MediumHelp soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.55%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.85–1.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Mentha piperita oil, Citrus grandis peel oil
Medium risk
We flagged 9 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Mentha piperita oilUsed as a fragrance and can be irritatingHigh~0.45–1%est.
Citrus grandis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.35–0.85%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~5.4–8.1%est.
Canola oilA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~4.6–6.9%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~3.7–5.6%est.
Ricinus communis seed oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~2.3–3.4%est.
Polyhydroxystearic acidUsed to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the formulationMedium~1.5–2.2%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.6–1.4%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.1–0.45%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~23–34%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.6–1.4%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Butyrospermum parkii butter~23–34%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~5.4–8.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Canola oil~4.6–6.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Canola oil
Olea europaea fruit oil~3.7–5.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Oryza sativa bran wax~2.7–4.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Oryza sativa bran wax
Ricinus communis seed oil~2.3–3.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Ricinus communis seed oil
Polyhydroxystearic acid~1.5–2.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the formulation

More about Polyhydroxystearic acid
Euphorbia cerifera wax~1.5–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Euphorbia cerifera wax
Terminalia ferdinandiana seed oil~1.2–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Terminalia ferdinandiana seed oil
Tocopherol~0.85–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Glycine soja oil~0.6–1.4%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Mentha piperita oil~0.45–1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance and can be irritating

More about Mentha piperita oil
Citrus grandis peel oil~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus grandis peel oil
Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~0.4–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil
Glyceryl rosinate~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glyceryl rosinate
Olea europaea oil unsaponifiables~0.15–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Olea europaea oil unsaponifiables
Helianthus annuus seed wax~0.2–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency

More about Helianthus annuus seed wax
Tocopheryl acetate~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Ingredient list view

Butyrospermum parkii butter, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Canola oil, Olea europaea fruit oil, Oryza sativa bran wax, Ricinus communis seed oil, Polyhydroxystearic acid, Euphorbia cerifera wax, Terminalia ferdinandiana seed oil, Tocopherol, Glycine soja oil, Mentha piperita oil, Citrus grandis peel oil, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Glyceryl rosinate, Olea europaea oil unsaponifiables, Helianthus annuus seed wax, Tocopheryl acetate

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 10 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Fatty acids profile of oil from nine varieties of Macadamia nuttandfonline.com
  2. 2
    Canola Oilsciencedirect.com
  3. 3
    Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oilonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  4. 4
    Final report on the safety assessment of Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate SE, Ricinoleic Acid, Potassium Ricinoleate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Zinc Ricinoleate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Ethyl Ricinoleate, Glycol Ricinoleate, Isopropyl Ricinoleate, Methyl Ricinoleate, and Octyldodecyl Ricinoleatencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Castor Oil: Properties, Uses, and Optimization of Processing Parameters in Commercial Productionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Dr Roebuck's Darling Lip Therapy
Dr Roebuck'sDarling Lip Therapy
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