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Dr H Anti-Ageing Vitamin C Facial Serum
Dr H

Dr H Anti-Ageing Vitamin C Facial Serum

Efficacy25/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Chondrus crispus powder, Glycerin + 3 more
Works
What the product description says
“• Delivers intense, preventative hydration to improve moisture retention and smooth fine lines”
Source: skinChemists

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": glycerin, glucose.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

Chondrus crispus powderKey activeEffect: MediumA powder from red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~1.4–2.1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.1–0.35%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.1–0.4%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~1–1.45%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.01–0.05%
Anti-aging
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Tocopherol
Not delivered
What the product description says
“What is it for: This serum is designed to target early signs of ageing, dullness, and dehydration.”
Source: skinChemists

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.55–1.3%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.01–0.05%
Evens skin tone
Salicylic acid
Not delivered
What the product description says
“What it is: A lightweight, fast-absorbing facial serum formulated with a powerful blend of brightening Vitamin C (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) and hydrating Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid).”
Source: skinChemists

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Salicylic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.2–0.75%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Limonene, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil expressed
Medium risk
We flagged 9 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~2.5–3.7%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~0.2–0.75%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil expressed—High~0.15–0.65%est.
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~5.2–7.7%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~1–1.45%est.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~0.55–1.3%est.
Ceratonia siliqua gumUsed to stabilize product formulations and create thicker consistencyMedium~0.5–1.15%est.
Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.01–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Chondrus crispus powderA powder from red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency3/5~1.4–2.1%est.
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Revolution Skincare Dark Spot Corrector
REVOLUTION SKINCARE Revolution Skincare Dark Spot Corrector
Higher efficacy · 100/10089% match
$10.68
Centasoothe Serum S5 with Dragon's Blood, Centella Asiatica and Evening Primrose Oil
Facetheory Centasoothe Serum S5 with Dragon's Blood, Centella Asiatica and Evening Primrose Oil
Higher efficacy · 87/10089% match
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil~5.2–7.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil
Polysorbate 20~3.3–4.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Limonene~2.5–3.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Benzyl alcohol~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Cellulose gum~1.5–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create thicker product consistency and stabilize emulsions

More about Cellulose gum
Chondrus crispus powder~1.4–2.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A powder from red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency

More about Chondrus crispus powder
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder~1–1.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~0.55–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Ceratonia siliqua gum~0.5–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to stabilize product formulations and create thicker consistency

More about Ceratonia siliqua gum
Salicylic acid~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryExfoliationAnti-blemishAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil expressed~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil expressed
Glucose~0.1–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Glycerin~0.1–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Sodium hydroxide~0.05–0.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Sorbic acid~0.01–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid
Tocopherol~0.01–0.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Ingredient list view

Water, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Polysorbate 20, Limonene, Benzyl alcohol, Cellulose gum, Chondrus crispus powder, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Ceratonia siliqua gum, Salicylic acid, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil expressed, Glucose, Glycerin, Sodium hydroxide, Sorbic acid, Tocopherol

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skinChemists30 ml
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Dr HAnti-Ageing Vitamin C Facial SerumYOUR PRODUCTREVOLUTION SKINCARERevolution Skincare Dark Spot CorrectorFacetheoryCentasoothe Serum S5 with Dragon's Blood, Centella Asiatica and Evening Primrose OilBioelementsvc10 daily glow
Match—89%89%89%
Price—$10.68—$66.00
Shared key ingredients—3 of 32 of 32 of 3
Key difference—NiacinamideFerulic AcidAscorbyl Glucoside
Irritancy Medium Low Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 17 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Amended Safety Assessment of PEGylated Oils as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  2. 2
    Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgarisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsionssciencedirect.com
  4. 4
    Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmeticseuropepmc.org
  5. 5
    Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphatekarger.com
  6. 6
    Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatmentonlinelibrary.wiley.com
Dr H Anti-Ageing Vitamin C Facial Serum
Dr HAnti-Ageing Vitamin C Facial Serum
Find on Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Find on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.