Dr. Brandt

Dr. Brandt Wrinkle Smoothing Cream

Name: Dr. Brandt - Wrinkle Smoothing Cream
Brand: Dr. Brandt

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging

8 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Wrinkle Smoothing Cream”

From product name

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, glycolic acid.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: palmitoyl heptapeptide-18, palmitoyl hexapeptide-52.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.1–0.2%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%

Palmitoyl hexapeptide-52Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

Palmitoyl heptapeptide-18Key activeEffect: Medium~0.1–0.2%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~4.2–5.1%

Glutamylamidoethyl imidazoleEffect: LowA peptide that is claimed to be helpful in supporting vitamin D production in skin but evidence is lacking~0.3–0.55%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.1–0.2%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.5%

Moisturizing

18 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Wrinkle Smoothing Cream”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, ricinus communis seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl heptapeptide-18, palmitoyl hexapeptide-52

Palmitoyl hexapeptide-52HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

Ricinus communis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~0.25–0.5%

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~4.2–5.1%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.45–0.7%

Palmitoyl heptapeptide-18HeroEffect: High~0.1–0.2%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.4–0.6%

Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.9–2.3%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.55–0.85%

Isopropyl palmitate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency~0.5–0.75%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.6–0.9%

C12-16 alcohols· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product's texture~0.7–1.05%

Magnesium gluconateEffect: LowA mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking~0.8–1.15%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.1–0.2%

Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.4–0.6%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Exfoliation

Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

2 strong irritants: Linalool, Lavandula angustifolia flower extract

Medium risk

We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Anthemis nobilis flower oilAn essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skinHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

Lavandula angustifolia flower extractEssential oil that can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

PerfluorohexaneUsed in products to help dissolve oxygen and enhance oxygen molecule penetration into the skin. There is no evidence for benefits of the oxygen emulsion in topical creams, lotions or serums. There is a study available confirming a positive impact of oxygen therapy for skin wound healing, but it used an oxygen emulsion stored under high pressure using special equipmentMedium~4.9–6%est.

Sodium acrylates copolymerUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~1.1–1.3%est.

C12-16 alcoholsHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product's textureMedium~0.7–1.05%est.

Isopropyl palmitateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistencyMedium~0.5–0.75%est.

Sodium cocoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.6%est.

ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Ricinus communis seed oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Polyvinyl alcoholHelps improve the product textureMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.1–0.2%est.

MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationMedium~0.05–0.1%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

3 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~4.2–5.1%est.

Isopropyl palmitateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency3/5~0.5–0.75%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.4–0.6%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Perfluorohexane~4.9–6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used in products to help dissolve oxygen and enhance oxygen molecule penetration into the skin. There is no evidence for benefits of the oxygen emulsion in topical creams, lotions or serums. There is a study available confirming a positive impact of oxygen therapy for skin wound healing, but it used an oxygen emulsion stored under high pressure using special equipment

More about Perfluorohexane

Butyrospermum parkii butter~4.2–5.1%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene~3–3.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene

Perfluorodecalin~2.3–2.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Perfluorodecalin

Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate~1.9–2.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate

Hydrogenated lecithin~1.6–1.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Polymethyl methacrylate~1.4–1.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Is used to enhance product texture and can help to optically mask skin imperfections

More about Polymethyl methacrylate

Sodium acrylates copolymer~1.1–1.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylates copolymer

Magnesium gluconate~0.8–1.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking

More about Magnesium gluconate

C12-16 alcohols~0.7–1.05%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product's texture

More about C12-16 alcohols

Palmitic acid~0.6–0.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid

Glyceryl stearate~0.55–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Isopropyl palmitate~0.5–0.75%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency

More about Isopropyl palmitate

Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Helps thicken the product consistency

More about Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer

Glycerin~0.45–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Phenoxyethanol~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Prolinamidoethyl imidazole~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Prolinamidoethyl imidazole

Cetearyl alcohol~0.4–0.6%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Menthone glycerin acetal~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Menthone glycerin acetal

Glutamylamidoethyl imidazole~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-aging

A peptide that is claimed to be helpful in supporting vitamin D production in skin but evidence is lacking

More about Glutamylamidoethyl imidazole

Tocopherol~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Lecithin~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Stearic acid~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Sodium cocoyl glutamate~0.35–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium cocoyl glutamate

Butylene glycol~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Xanthan gum~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose

Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin

Sodium phytate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium phytate

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Ricinus communis seed oil~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Ricinus communis seed oil

Anthemis nobilis flower oil~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin

More about Anthemis nobilis flower oil

Silanediol salicylate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Silanediol salicylate

Adenosine~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Tromethamine~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine

Linalool~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Palmitoyl hexapeptide-52~0.15–0.25%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl hexapeptide-52

Polyvinyl alcohol~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps improve the product texture

More about Polyvinyl alcohol

Lactic acid~0.1–0.2%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

ExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Glycolic acid~0.1–0.2%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

ExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid

Palmitoyl heptapeptide-18~0.1–0.2%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

More about Palmitoyl heptapeptide-18

Methylpropanediol~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Methylpropanediol

Lavandula angustifolia flower extract~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Essential oil that can be irritating

More about Lavandula angustifolia flower extract

Ingredient list view

Water, Perfluorohexane, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, Perfluorodecalin, Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, Hydrogenated lecithin, Polymethyl methacrylate, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Magnesium gluconate, C12-16 alcohols, Palmitic acid, Glyceryl stearate, Isopropyl palmitate, Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Prolinamidoethyl imidazole, Cetearyl alcohol, Menthone glycerin acetal, Glutamylamidoethyl imidazole, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Stearic acid, Sodium cocoyl glutamate, Butylene glycol, Xanthan gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Chlorphenesin, Sodium phytate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ricinus communis seed oil, Anthemis nobilis flower oil, Silanediol salicylate, Adenosine, Tromethamine, Linalool, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-52, Polyvinyl alcohol, Lactic acid, Glycolic acid, Palmitoyl heptapeptide-18, Methylpropanediol, Lavandula angustifolia flower extract

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Product summary

"Dr. Brandt - Wrinkle Smoothing Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Dr. Brandt - Wrinkle Smoothing Cream ticks this box. Humectants in this product (glycerin and butylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (butyrospermum parkii butter, ricinus communis seed oil, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, cetearyl alcohol and c12-16 alcohols) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

This moisturizer also contains Peptides (palmitoyl heptapeptide-18 0.10% - 0.20% and palmitoyl hexapeptide-52 0.15% - 0.25%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
Adenosine 0.20% - 0.40%. It is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of Adenosine in a low concentration can reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: lactic acid, stearic acid, lecithin and vitamin e

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.