Dr. Barbara Sturm Facial Scrub

Dr. Barbara Sturm Facial Scrub

Efficacy68/100IrritancyMedium

Works for

Moisturizing
Panthenol, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil + 15 more
Works well
What the product description says
“In addition, Horse Chestnut stimulates the microcirculation and strengthens the blood vessels, while precious silk extracts supply intensive moisture and create an incomparably smooth complexion”
Source: Beautylish

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, pantolactone.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, simmondsia chinensis seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.5–0.75%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~6–7.4%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~3.7–4.6%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seedKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.6–2%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.75–1.1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.5–0.75%
PantolactoneKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Hydrolyzed silkKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~2.8–3.4%
Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~2.3–2.8%
Dicaprylyl ether· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients~1.4–1.8%
Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~1.1–1.4%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1–1.2%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.2–0.35%
Anti-aging
Retinyl palmitate, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 4 more
May help
What the product description says
“The peel also promotes cell renewal, thereby reducing fine lines and improving the appearance of the skin”
Source: Beautylish

This product contains retinyl palmitate. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.3–0.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.75–1.1%
Magnesium aluminum silicateEffect: LowMight be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and, when combined with zinc carbonate and malonic acid, reducing fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating elastin production. Also helps stabilize the product formulation~0.5–0.75%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.2–0.35%
Anti-blemish
Retinyl palmitate, Lactobacillus/portulaca oleracea ferment extract
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Prevents breakouts and stimulates blood circulation”
Source: Bluemercury

This product contains ingredients (retinyl palmitate) that could help reduce blemishes and clogged pores in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

Retinyl palmitateEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.3–0.5%
Lactobacillus/portulaca oleracea ferment extractEffect: LowObtained from fermenting a plant extract with bacteria Lactobacillus. The resulting compound might be able to calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.55–0.85%
Exfoliation
Retinyl palmitate, Lactic acid
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Facial Scrub”
Source: Beautylish

This product might help exfoliate the skin with retinyl palmitate, but This ingredient is not the most effective.

Retinyl palmitateEffect: LowThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.3–0.5%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.2–0.35%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit the brand mentions · Retinyl palmitate, Lactobacillus/portulaca oleracea ferment extract + 1 more
May help
What the product description says
“Packed with potent active ingredients that promote cell renewal (including vitamin A and purslane) the peel reduces fine lines and makes the complexion even and smooth.”
Source: Cultbeauty

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: lactobacillus/portulaca oleracea ferment extract, retinyl palmitate.

Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.3–0.5%
Lactobacillus/portulaca oleracea ferment extractEffect: LowObtained from fermenting a plant extract with bacteria Lactobacillus. The resulting compound might be able to calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.55–0.85%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.2–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Retinyl palmitate
Medium risk
We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.3–0.5%est.
Aesculus hippocastanum seed extractPlant extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Glyceryl oleateHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~6–7.4%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Hydrolyzed silkCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.2–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.75–1.1%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~3.7–4.6%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~6–7.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Cetearyl alcohol~3.7–4.6%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate citrate~2.8–3.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate
Octyldodecanol~2.3–2.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol
Polyethylene~2.1–2.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken the product's texture

More about Polyethylene
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed~1.6–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed
Dicaprylyl ether~1.4–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients

More about Dicaprylyl ether
Sorbitol~1.1–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol
Glyceryl stearate~1–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.75–1.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Lactobacillus/portulaca oleracea ferment extract~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryEvens skin toneAnti-blemishReduces irritationReduces redness

Obtained from fermenting a plant extract with bacteria Lactobacillus. The resulting compound might be able to calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant properties, but solid evidence is missing

More about Lactobacillus/portulaca oleracea ferment extract
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Panthenol~0.5–0.75%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Glycerin~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Magnesium aluminum silicate~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-aging

Might be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and, when combined with zinc carbonate and malonic acid, reducing fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating elastin production. Also helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Magnesium aluminum silicate
Prunus amygdalus dulcis shell powder~0.6–0.85%
Formula
Xanthan gum~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Potassium sorbate~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Butylene glycol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Retinyl palmitate~0.3–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Aesculus hippocastanum seed extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Plant extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating

More about Aesculus hippocastanum seed extract
Lecithin~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Pantolactone~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Pantolactone
Glyceryl oleate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Glyceryl oleate
Hydrolyzed silk~0.25–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed silk
Sodium benzoate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Citric acid~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Lactic acid~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Tocopherol~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Methylparaben~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Methylparaben
Butylparaben~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Butylparaben
Ethylparaben~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Ethylparaben
Isobutylparaben~0.05–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Isobutylparaben
Propylparaben~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Propylparaben
Ingredient list view

Water, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Octyldodecanol, Polyethylene, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed, Dicaprylyl ether, Sorbitol, Glyceryl stearate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Lactobacillus/portulaca oleracea ferment extract, Phenoxyethanol, Panthenol, Glycerin, Magnesium aluminum silicate, Prunus amygdalus dulcis shell powder, Xanthan gum, Potassium sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene glycol, Retinyl palmitate, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Aesculus hippocastanum seed extract, Lecithin, Ascorbyl palmitate, Pantolactone, Glyceryl oleate, Hydrolyzed silk, Sodium benzoate, Citric acid, Lactic acid, Tocopherol, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Propylparaben

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Beautylish100 ml
$75.00 Out of stock
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Bluemercury
$80.00
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Amazon USPrice as of 11/14 09:04 GMT
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Dr. Barbara SturmFacial ScrubYOUR PRODUCTNo7Derm Solutions Psoriasis Treatment CreamBABORCleansing Gentle PeelingRéViveLe Polish Micro-Resurfacing Treatment
Match—53%52%50%
Price$80.00$80.80+$0.80$25.13−$54.87$15.33−$64.67
Shared key ingredients—3 of 84 of 84 of 8
Key difference—Urea—A Type Of Green Tea Extract
Irritancy Medium Low Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 15 studies and safety reviews.

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Dr. Barbara Sturm Facial Scrub
Dr. Barbara SturmFacial Scrub

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.