Dr. Althea Squalane Silk Mask

Dr. Althea Squalane Silk Mask

Efficacy41/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Glycerin, Sodium hyaluronate + 14 more
Works
What the product description says
“Hydrolyzed collagen, a protein that replenishes dry skin, hyaluronic acid, a humectant that helps skin retain moisture, and squalane, a lipid that serves as a protective barrier to seal all of that moisture in.”
Source: Soko Glam

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: anhydroxylitol, arginine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, squalane.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.3–6.4%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.8%
Hydrolyzed collagenKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.6%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.8–1.2%
XylitylglucosideKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function~0.45–1%
AnhydroxylitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function~0.35–0.8%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.2–0.75%
BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.15–0.65%
ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.1–0.4%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~0.1–0.3%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.4–2.1%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.1–0.4%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.1–0.35%
CyclohexasiloxaneEffect: Low, below effective doseA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~0.05–0.25%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.15–0.55%
PanthenolUnder-dosedHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.15–0.7%
Evens skin tone
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate + 1 more
Not delivered
What the product description says
“5% pure vitamin C which attacks pigmentation and lightens brown spots and acne scars.”
Source: Soko Glam

This product contains ingredients (glycyrrhiza glabra root extract) that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.1–0.35%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.15–0.55%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.1–0.35%
Anti-aging
Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Prevent new damage and deliver a youthful glow with skin products from Soko Glam.”
Source: Soko Glam

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.1–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
5 strong irritants: Alcohol, Zingiber officinale root extract + 3 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~2.7–4.1%est.
Zingiber officinale root extractA plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lackingHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
Coptis japonica root extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Citrus grandis seed extract—High~0.05–0.2%est.
Perilla ocymoides leaf extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin but solid research is lacking. Contains a number of volatile compounds and could be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.01–0.05%est.
MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationMedium~2–3%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Schisandra chinensis fruit extractA berry extract that might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skinMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.3–6.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Dipropylene glycol~3.6–5.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol
Alcohol~2.7–4.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Methylpropanediol~2–3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Methylpropanediol
Propanediol~1.7–2.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Butylene glycol~1.4–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Sodium hyaluronate~1.2–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed collagen~1.1–1.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed collagen
Squalane~0.8–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Xylitylglucoside~0.45–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitylglucoside
Anhydroxylitol~0.35–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function

More about Anhydroxylitol
Xylitol~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol
Glucose~0.2–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Silk extract~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Silk extract
Panthenol~0.15–0.7%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Betaine~0.15–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.15–0.55%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Carbomer~0.15–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.15–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose
Arginine~0.1–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine
Disodium edta~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Xanthan gum~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oil~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oil
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Zingiber officinale root extract~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking

More about Zingiber officinale root extract
Schisandra chinensis fruit extract~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A berry extract that might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin

More about Schisandra chinensis fruit extract
Coptis japonica root extract~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Coptis japonica root extract
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Caprylyl glycol~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
1,2-hexanediol~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Citrus grandis seed extract~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Acorus calamus root extract~0.05–0.15%
Formula
Perilla ocymoides leaf extract~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin but solid research is lacking. Contains a number of volatile compounds and could be irritating

More about Perilla ocymoides leaf extract
Cyclopentasiloxane~0.1–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Cyclohexasiloxane~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane
Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Parfum~0.01–0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene glycol, Alcohol, Methylpropanediol, Propanediol, Butylene glycol, Sodium hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed collagen, Squalane, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Glucose, Silk extract, Panthenol, Betaine, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Carbomer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Arginine, Disodium edta, Xanthan gum, Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oil, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Zingiber officinale root extract, Schisandra chinensis fruit extract, Coptis japonica root extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Citrus grandis seed extract, Acorus calamus root extract, Perilla ocymoides leaf extract, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Dr. AltheaSqualane Silk MaskYOUR PRODUCTMEDIHEALD.N.A Hydrating Protein Sheet MaskDr. Jart+Mask Variety PackSeoulistaWonderberry Skin Defence Instant Facial
Match—64%59%59%
Price——$27.00$3.15
Shared key ingredients—9 of 1210 of 127 of 12
Key difference—Copper Tripeptide-1Salicylic AcidCeramide Ns
Irritancy High Medium High Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol — Contains drying alcohol —
View product Shop Shop Shop

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 11 studies and safety reviews.

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Dr. Althea Squalane Silk Mask
Dr. AltheaSqualane Silk Mask

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.