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Dermaquest Stem Cell Rebuilding Complex
Dermaquest

Dermaquest Stem Cell Rebuilding Complex

Efficacy87/100IrritancyLow
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Linoleic acid, Panthenol + 12 more
Works well
What the product description says
“The powerful formula contains an exclusive blend of Hydrocotyl and Coneflower extracts that work in synergy to reconstruct collagen levels, with proteins and plant stem cells helping to strengthen skin tissue and improve firmness.”
Source: Lookfantastic US

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, mannitol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycosaminoglycans, caprylyl glycol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: linoleic acid, panthenol

Linoleic acidHero· EmollientEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~2.6–3.2%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.55–0.85%
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineKey activeEffect: MediumIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~4.3–5.3%
MannitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.7%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.75–1.15%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.5–0.75%
GlycosaminoglycansKey active· EmollientEffect: HighLong sugars that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Plankton extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
Lecithin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~5–6.2%
TocopherolEffect: LowPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~2–2.5%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.4%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.2–0.4%
AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.1–0.15%
Anti-aging
Centella asiatica extract, Ferulic acid + 4 more
May help
What the product description says
“As a result, the look of wrinkles and fine lines appear visibly reduced and the complexion feels considerably firmer, lifted and revitalised with a healthy looking radiance.”
Source: Lookfantastic US

This product contains arabidopsis thaliana extract, centella asiatica extract, ferulic acid. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.75–1.15%
Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.4–0.6%
Arabidopsis thaliana extractKey activeEffect: MediumPlant extract that might be helpful in repairing sun damage but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking~0.2–0.35%
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineEffect: LowIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~4.3–5.3%
TocopherolEffect: LowPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~2–2.5%
Decarboxy carnosine hclEffect: LowMight be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed~0.5–0.75%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Tocopherol, Centella asiatica extract + 5 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (ferulic acid, tocopherol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - centella asiatica extract, decarboxy carnosine hcl also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

TocopherolKey activeEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~2–2.5%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.75–1.15%
Decarboxy carnosine hclKey activeEffect: MediumMight be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed~0.5–0.75%
Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: HighA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.4–0.6%
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineEffect: LowIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~4.3–5.3%
Echinacea purpurea extractEffect: LowPlant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating~0.65–1%
Olea europaea leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties but evidence for effectiveness in skin is missing~0.2–0.4%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Ferulic acid
May help

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: ferulic acid.

Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.4–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 11 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Echinacea purpurea extractPlant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.65–1%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.75–1.15%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Olea europaea leaf extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties but evidence for effectiveness in skin is missingMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Arabidopsis thaliana extractPlant extract that might be helpful in repairing sun damage but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lackingMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
TriethanolamineUsed to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smellMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.15–0.3%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Lecithin~5–6.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline~4.3–5.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

Is claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness

More about Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline
Tall oil sterol~3.3–4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Tall oil sterol
Linoleic acid~2.6–3.2%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingCleansingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid
Tocopherol~2–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Sodium ascorbate~1.7–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Sodium ascorbate
Mannitol~1.4–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Mannitol
Butylene glycol~1.2–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Centella asiatica extract~0.75–1.15%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Echinacea purpurea extract~0.65–1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating

More about Echinacea purpurea extract
Panthenol~0.55–0.85%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Decarboxy carnosine hcl~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Might be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed

More about Decarboxy carnosine hcl
Glycerin~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Methylglucoside phosphate~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Methylglucoside phosphate
Copper lysinate/prolinate~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Copper lysinate/prolinate
Ferulic acid~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%

More about Ferulic acid
Leontopodium alpinum meristem cell culture~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Leontopodium alpinum meristem cell culture
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Yeast polysaccharides~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Yeast polysaccharides
Phenoxyethanol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Hexylene glycol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol
Olea europaea leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties but evidence for effectiveness in skin is missing

More about Olea europaea leaf extract
Glycosaminoglycans~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Long sugars that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glycosaminoglycans
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder
Arabidopsis thaliana extract~0.2–0.35%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-aging

Plant extract that might be helpful in repairing sun damage but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking

More about Arabidopsis thaliana extract
Plankton extract~0.15–0.3%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Plankton extract
Carbomer~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Triethanolamine~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smell

More about Triethanolamine
Allantoin~0.1–0.15%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Disodium edta~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Ingredient list view

Water, Lecithin, Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, Tall oil sterol, Linoleic acid, Tocopherol, Sodium ascorbate, Mannitol, Butylene glycol, Centella asiatica extract, Echinacea purpurea extract, Panthenol, Decarboxy carnosine hcl, Glycerin, Methylglucoside phosphate, Copper lysinate/prolinate, Ferulic acid, Leontopodium alpinum meristem cell culture, Xanthan gum, Yeast polysaccharides, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene glycol, Olea europaea leaf extract, Glycosaminoglycans, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, Arabidopsis thaliana extract, Plankton extract, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Allantoin, Disodium edta

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Amazon USPrice as of 11/7 09:20 GMT
$114.40
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
DermaquestStem Cell Rebuilding ComplexYOUR PRODUCTNuFaceCollagen Booster B1Goldfaden MDBrightening Elixir Advanced Brightening + Anti-Oxidant TreatmentAesthetics RxVitamin C Serum 23%
Match—46%43%43%
Price$114.40—$48.00−$66.40$85.09−$29.31
Shared key ingredients—5 of 104 of 104 of 10
Key difference—Copper PcaVitamin CVitamin C
Irritancy Low Low Low Medium
Drying alcohol————
View product Shop Shop Shop
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Product summary

"Dermaquest - Stem Cell Rebuilding Complex" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (panthenol, glycerin, mannitol, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (linoleic acid, glycosaminoglycans, caprylyl glycol and lecithin) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This formulation also uses an effective concentration of panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) - about 0.55% - 0.85%. Panthenol helps strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and reduce inflammation in skin.
  • Another helpful ingredient in this moisturizer is Linoleic Acid. It is one of the fatty acids naturally present in skin. It is part of the skin barrier. Preliminary research shows that it might be able to reduce clogged pores.

Irritation risk

There are actives in this product that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be low. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 76.01$ up to 80.00$ in the United States, for 84.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 89.30CA$ in Canada.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 22 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    The Permeability Barrier in Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency: Evidence for a Direct Role for Linoleic Acid in Barrier Functionsciencedirect.com
  2. 2
    Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones.europepmc.org
  3. 3
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
  5. 5
    Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Modelmdpi.com
  6. 6
    Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Dermaquest Stem Cell Rebuilding Complex
DermaquestStem Cell Rebuilding Complex
Buy on Amazon$114.40 · as of 11/7 09:20 GMT

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy on Amazon$114.40 · as of 11/7 09:20 GMT

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.