Dermalogica Clear Start Clearing Defense Moisturizer SPF 30
Works for
1 of 2 advertised claims delivered
Sun protectionSPF 30 · 5 UV filtersBroad spectrum
This product offers a good level of protection against both UVB and UVA rays.
This sunscreen uses organic (so-called "chemical") sunscreen filters. Organic, or "chemical" filters usually provide reliable sun protection and rarely leave a white cast. Sunscreens with organic filters can sting eyes.
This product can be considered "reef safe" because it does not contain the UV filters (oxybenzone and octinoxate) that can be harmful to coral reefs when present in the water in high concentrations.
Anti-blemish3 ingredients credited for this claimWeak support
“Shine reducing sunscreen for acne-prone skin.”
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.
Evens skin toneNot advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
This product offers broad spectrum sun protection. It means that it can prevent hyperpigmentation and help keep the skin tone even (sun damage is the main factor causing age spots, darkening of post-acne marks and other discolorations).
Anti-agingNot advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
This product can help prevent early signs of skin aging because it offers a good level of broad spectrum sun protection. Sun damage is the main cause of premature skin aging, and protecting your skin from the sun is the best anti-aging strategy.
MoisturizingNot advertised by the brand · 11 ingredients credited for this claimGood support
This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": glycerin, saccharide isomerate.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy6 strong irritants: Coriandrum sativum fruit oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil + 4 more — patch-test recommendedHigh risk
ComedogenicClean of flagged comedogenic ingredientsNone flagged
User reviews
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Ingredients
Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.
Water~45–55%
Homosalate~5.5–6.8%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulation
More about HomosalateOctocrylene~4.6–5.6%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen
More about OctocryleneButylene glycol~3.1–3.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
More about Butylene glycolEthylhexyl salicylate~3.2–3.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Octisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen
More about Ethylhexyl salicylateSilica~2.1–2.5%
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane~2.2–2.6%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.
More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneC12-15 alkyl benzoate~1.5–1.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth
More about C12-15 alkyl benzoateButyloctyl salicylate~1.2–1.4%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A synthetic ester of salicylic acid that is used to help disperse pigments and boost effectiveness of sunscreen ingredients. It is able to absorb UV light (working as an organic, or chemical filter), but is not approved as a sunscreen ingredient on its own
More about Butyloctyl salicylateVp/eicosene copolymer~1–1.2%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Used to improve the product adherence to the skin, for example, to pro-long the protective effect of sunscreens. Can be irritating to very sensitive skin
More about Vp/eicosene copolymerPolyglyceryl-2 distearate~0.7–1.05%
Saccharide isomerate~0.55–0.85%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
More about Saccharide isomerateTapioca starch~0.5–0.8%
Coriandrum sativum fruit oil~0.45–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- High
A plant oil that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating
More about Coriandrum sativum fruit oilCamellia sinensis leaf extract~0.45–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
More about Camellia sinensis leaf extractSodium ascorbyl phosphate~0.45–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphateSalix alba bark extract~0.4–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- High
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect
More about Salix alba bark extractTerpineol~0.3–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Thymol~0.3–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- High
An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating
More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilDipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening
More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizateTocopheryl acetate~0.3–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
More about Tocopheryl acetatePotassium cetyl phosphate~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps oil and water mix together
More about Potassium cetyl phosphateArachidyl alcohol~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency
More about Arachidyl alcoholGlyceryl stearate~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
More about Glyceryl stearatePeg-100 stearate~0.35–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture
More about Peg-100 stearateBehenyl alcohol~0.3–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient
More about Behenyl alcoholXanthan gum~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a thicker product consistency
More about Xanthan gumAcrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.3–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together
More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerArachidyl glucoside~0.25–0.5%
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.5%
Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Used to improve stability of the formulation
More about Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinateCitric acid~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
More about Citric acidSodium citrate~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products
More about Sodium citrateSodium hydroxide~0.25–0.45%
Glycerin~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinBisabolol~0.2–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties
More about BisabololPentylene glycol~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
More about Pentylene glycolPropanediol~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
More about PropanediolHydroxyacetophenone~0.2–0.4%
Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
More about Caprylyl glycolPotassium sorbate~0.15–0.3%
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.25%
Linalool~0.15–0.25%
Limonene~0.15–0.25%
- Irritation risk
- High
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
More about LimoneneGeraniol~0.1–0.15%
Citronellol~0.1–0.15%
Ingredient list view
Water, Homosalate, Octocrylene, Butylene glycol, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Silica, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Butyloctyl salicylate, Vp/eicosene copolymer, Polyglyceryl-2 distearate, Saccharide isomerate, Tapioca starch, Coriandrum sativum fruit oil, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Salix alba bark extract, Terpineol, Thymol, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Tocopheryl acetate, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Arachidyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Behenyl alcohol, Xanthan gum, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Arachidyl glucoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, Citric acid, Sodium citrate, Sodium hydroxide, Glycerin, Bisabolol, Pentylene glycol, Propanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl glycol, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol, Citronellol
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Product summary
We believe that "Dermalogica - Clear Start Clearing Defense Moisturizer SPF 30" can provide reliable sun protection based on the ingredients listed. It can protect from both UVA and UVB rays. This is great news because not all sunscreens with SPF ratings give UVA protection. (UVA rays do not cause sunburn, but still damage our skin and lead to early aging).
Because it includes good moisturizing ingredients, it can also work as a hydrating day cream. Like all broad-spectrum sunscreens, this product has an anti-aging benefit.
Sunscreen filters
This is a so-called "chemical" sunscreen. It means that it uses organic UV filters. They typically offer good sun protection and rarely leave a white cast, but they can be irritating for some people with sensitive skin. These are the sun protection ingredients in this sunscreen: avobenzone 2.20% - 2.60%, butyloctyl salicylate 1.20% - 1.40%, octisalate 3.20% - 3.90%, homosalate 5.50% - 6.80% and octocrylene 4.60% - 5.60%.
Irritation risk
This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
About the brand
According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dermalogica" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.
Price
The product retails for 29.00$ in the United States.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 18 studies and safety reviews.
- 1
- 2
- 3
- 4Oil composition of coriander (Coriandrum sativum L.) fruit-seedslink.springer.com
- 5
- 6Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsionssciencedirect.com
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