Dermalogica Biolumin C Moisturiser

Dermalogica Biolumin C Moisturiser

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

3 of 4 advertised claims delivered

Exfoliation
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“To supplement this vitamin C-bestowed glow, the hydrating, gel-like formula of the Bio Lumin-C Gel Moisturiser is boosted with phytic acid and pumpkin enzymes that gently exfoliate for an even-toned complexion, as well as moisture-slurping hyaluronic acid and nourishing squalane.”
Source: Cultbeauty

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: hydroxyethyl urea.

Hydroxyethyl ureaKey activeEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~1.3–1.6%
Lactobacillus/pumpkin ferment extractEffect: LowAn enzyme-based exfoliant~0.45–0.65%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.65–0.95%
Anti-aging
6 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support
What the product description says
“It improves skin's elasticity, minimizing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”
Source: Feelunique

This product contains centella asiatica extract. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.5–0.8%
Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.65–0.95%
Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)~0.8–1.2%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–0.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.45–0.65%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.45–0.65%
Moisturizing
27 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Biolumin C Moisturiser”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: biosaccharide gum-1, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, squalane.

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.45–0.7%
Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.65–0.95%
Hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycansKey active· HumectantEffect: HighLong sugars that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.6–0.9%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.9–3.6%
TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.3%
MannitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.65%
Lactobacillus fermentKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.45–0.65%
Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.55–0.85%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%
Hydroxyethyl ureaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~1.3–1.6%
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAttracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.5–0.8%
Hydrolyzed jojoba estersKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.85%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.1–5%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.5–0.8%
GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.45–0.65%
Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.45–0.7%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.5–0.75%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.7–2.1%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.45–0.7%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.25–0.5%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.45–0.65%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.65–0.95%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.45–0.65%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.45–0.65%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–0.7%
Evens skin tone
5 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“This brightening moisturiser is powered by potent vitamin C, working to promote a more even skin tone and enhanced luminosity.”
Source: Lookfantastic CA

This product might help improve the skin tone through exfoliation. In other words, it helps to speed up the shedding of cells from the upper layer of the skin, and this might help reduce hyperpigmentation.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.4–0.6%
Lactobacillus/pumpkin ferment extractEffect: LowAn enzyme-based exfoliant~0.45–0.65%
Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)~0.8–1.2%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.45–0.65%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–0.7%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 10 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (centella asiatica extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.5–0.8%
Lactobacillus fermentEffect: LowA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.45–0.65%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.4–0.6%
Daucus carota sativa root extractEffect: LowCarrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color~0.45–0.65%
Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinateEffect: LowA stable derivative of pectin and vitamin C. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking. Helps create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulation~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.45–0.65%
ErgothioneineUnder-dosedEffect: HighCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking~0.5–0.7%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–0.7%
Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)~0.8–1.2%
BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.4–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
5 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium dulcis peel extract, Citrus paradisi peel oil + 3 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 26 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
Citrus paradisi peel oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.6%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.4–0.6%est.
Raspberry ketoneUsed as a fragrance. It can reduce skin pigmentation, but it is not safe to use for these purposes in high concentrations as use of raspberry ketone and its derivative is linked to causing loss of skin pigmentation in people (leukoderma)High~0.35–0.65%est.
Santalum album oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
P-anisic acidHelps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphateA more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)Medium~0.8–1.2%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
Sodium levulinateA preservativeMedium~0.5–0.7%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.5–0.8%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Lactobacillus/pumpkin ferment extractAn enzyme-based exfoliantMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.45–0.7%est.
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerAttracts water into the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Phytic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmeticsMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinateA stable derivative of pectin and vitamin C. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking. Helps create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Benzyl glycolHelps dissolve other ingredients and preserve productsMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.45–0.7%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Unspecified form of vitamin c~44–54%
Formula
Water~11–14%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.1–5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Squalane~2.9–3.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Propanediol~2.1–2.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Butylene glycol~1.7–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Ppg-24-glycereth-24~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Ppg-24-glycereth-24
Jojoba wax peg-120 esters~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Jojoba wax peg-120 esters
Hydroxyethyl urea~1.3–1.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliation

A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients

More about Hydroxyethyl urea
Trehalose~1.1–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate~0.8–1.2%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)

More about Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate
Allantoin~0.65–0.95%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces rednessReduces irritationExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Hyaluronic acid~0.65–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid~0.6–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin

More about Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid
Hydrolyzed jojoba esters~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed jojoba esters
Biosaccharide gum-1~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium pca~0.5–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Sodium levulinate~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium levulinate
Ergothioneine~0.5–0.7%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking

More about Ergothioneine
Beta-carotene~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene
Lactobacillus ferment~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative

More about Lactobacillus ferment
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.45–0.7%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishMoisturizingEvens skin tone

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Centella asiatica extract~0.5–0.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Chamomilla recutita flower extract~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationReduces rednessEvens skin toneAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Verbascum thapsus extract~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Lactobacillus/pumpkin ferment extract~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneExfoliation

An enzyme-based exfoliant

More about Lactobacillus/pumpkin ferment extract
Glycine soja oil~0.45–0.7%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel extract~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel extract
Citrus paradisi peel oil~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus paradisi peel oil
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil
Raspberry ketone~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. It can reduce skin pigmentation, but it is not safe to use for these purposes in high concentrations as use of raspberry ketone and its derivative is linked to causing loss of skin pigmentation in people (leukoderma)

More about Raspberry ketone
Jasminum sambac flower extract~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Santalum album oil~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Santalum album oil
Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color

More about Daucus carota sativa root extract
Bisabolol~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Cystine~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cystine
Glycine~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.45–0.65%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Long sugars that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer~0.45–0.65%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer
Sodium hyaluronate~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Pentylene glycol~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Caprylyl glycol~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Tocopherol~0.45–0.65%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Mannitol~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Mannitol
Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate
Sodium hydroxide~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Phytic acid~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics

More about Phytic acid
Citric acid~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil
C12-13 pareth-3~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about C12-13 pareth-3
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Sclerotium gum~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A stable derivative of pectin and vitamin C. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking. Helps create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulation

More about Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate
Glyceryl caprylate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
P-anisic acid~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Helps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritating

More about P-anisic acid
Benzyl glycol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps dissolve other ingredients and preserve products

More about Benzyl glycol
Methylpropanediol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Methylpropanediol
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Potassium sorbate~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Limonene~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Ingredient list view

Unspecified form of vitamin c, Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Propanediol, Butylene glycol, Ppg-24-glycereth-24, Jojoba wax peg-120 esters, Hydroxyethyl urea, Trehalose, Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate, Allantoin, Hyaluronic acid, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Hydrolyzed jojoba esters, Biosaccharide gum-1, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium pca, Sodium levulinate, Ergothioneine, Beta-carotene, Lactobacillus ferment, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Centella asiatica extract, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Verbascum thapsus extract, Lactobacillus/pumpkin ferment extract, Glycine soja oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel extract, Citrus paradisi peel oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Raspberry ketone, Jasminum sambac flower extract, Santalum album oil, Daucus carota sativa root extract, Bisabolol, Cystine, Glycine, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans, Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, Sodium hyaluronate, Pentylene glycol, Caprylyl glycol, Tocopherol, Mannitol, Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, Sodium hydroxide, Phytic acid, Citric acid, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, C12-13 pareth-3, Xanthan gum, Sclerotium gum, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate, Glyceryl caprylate, P-anisic acid, Benzyl glycol, Methylpropanediol, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate, Limonene

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 39 studies and safety reviews.

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Dermalogica Biolumin C Moisturiser
DermalogicaBiolumin C Moisturiser

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