Dermalogica Biolumin C Moisturiser

Name: Dermalogica - Biolumin C Moisturiser
Brand: Dermalogica

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WORKS FOR

Exfoliation
Moisturizing
Anti-aging
Evens skin tone
+1 more

KEY INGREDIENTS

aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate
allantoin
biosaccharide gum-1
bisabolol
camellia sinensis leaf extract
centella asiatica extract
dipotassium glycyrrhizate
ergothioneine
glycerin
glycine
glycine soja oil
helianthus annuus seed oil
hyaluronic acid
hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans
hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid
hydrolyzed jojoba esters
hydroxyethyl urea
lactobacillus ferment
mannitol
sodium hyaluronate
sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer
sodium pca
squalane
tocopherol
trehalose
+22 more

PROMISES
FULFILLED

58 /100

IRRITANCY

HIGH

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In stock $65.00

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Out of stock $65.00

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Formula review

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What does the product description say?

"It improves skin’s elasticity, minimizing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles."

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WIMJ summary

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - hyaluronic acid - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

Ingredient	Effectiveness	Concentration	Irritancy
hyaluronic acid	LOW
aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate	MEDIUM
centella asiatica extract	MEDIUM

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What does the product description say?

"This brightening moisturiser is powered by potent vitamin C, working to promote a more even skin tone and enhanced luminosity."

Lookfantastic

WIMJ summary

This product might help improve the skin tone through exfoliation. In other words, it helps to speed up the shedding of cells from the upper layer of the skin, and this might help reduce hyperpigmentation.

Ingredient	Effectiveness	Concentration	Irritancy
glycyrrhiza glabra root extract	LOW
lactobacillus/pumpkin ferment extract	LOW
aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate	MEDIUM

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WIMJ summary

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: hydroxyethyl urea.

Ingredient	Effectiveness	Concentration	Irritancy
hydroxyethyl urea	HIGH
lactobacillus/pumpkin ferment extract	LOW
allantoin	LOW

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What does the product description say?

"Biolumin C Moisturiser"

From product name

WIMJ summary

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: allantoin, biosaccharide gum-1.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, squalane.

Ingredient	Effectiveness	Concentration	Irritancy
trehalose	HIGH
hydrolyzed jojoba esters	HIGH
hydroxyethyl urea	HIGH

Potential irritants

IRRITANCY

HIGH

Ingredient	Irritancy	Skin Benefit
aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate
ethylhexylglycerin
sodium levulinate

Ingredients by volume

Ingredient	Estimated concentration
unknown The ingredient is not recognized	TBC
water Plain old water	45% - 55%
glycerin One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant	4.6% - 5.6%
squalane An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.	4.1% - 5%
propanediol Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin	3% - 3.6%
butylene glycol Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin	2.2% - 2.7%
ppg-24-glycereth-24	1.5% - 1.8%
jojoba wax peg-120 esters	1.5% - 1.8%
hydroxyethyl urea A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients	1.3% - 1.6%
trehalose A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin	1.1% - 1.3%
aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate A more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)	0.75% - 1.1%
allantoin Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated	0.45% - 0.65%
hyaluronic acid One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation	0.45% - 0.7%
hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin	0.35% - 0.65%
hydrolyzed jojoba esters Helps soften the upper layer of the skin	0.3% - 0.6%
biosaccharide gum-1 Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin	0.3% - 0.5%
ethylhexylglycerin A preservative	0.3% - 0.55%
sodium pca Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer	0.25% - 0.5%
sodium levulinate A preservative	0.25% - 0.45%
ergothioneine Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking	0.2% - 0.4%
beta-carotene A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color	0.2% - 0.35%
lactobacillus ferment A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative	0.15% - 0.3%
aloe barbadensis leaf juice Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin	0.15% - 0.3%
camellia sinensis leaf extract Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation	0.15% - 0.3%
centella asiatica extract A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.	0.2% - 0.35%
chamomilla recutita flower extract Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating	0.1% - 0.25%
glycyrrhiza glabra root extract A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals	0.1% - 0.2%
verbascum thapsus extract	0.1% - 0.2%
lactobacillus/pumpkin ferment extract An enzyme-based exfoliant	0.1% - 0.25%
glycine soja oil A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function	0.15% - 0.25%
citrus aurantium dulcis peel extract Used as a fragrance	0.1% - 0.2%
citrus paradisi peel oil Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating	0.1% - 0.2%
helianthus annuus seed oil A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function	0.15% - 0.3%
citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity	0.1% - 0.25%
raspberry ketone Used as a fragrance. It can reduce skin pigmentation, but it is not safe to use for these purposes in high concentrations as use of raspberry ketone and its derivative is linked to causing loss of skin pigmentation in people (leukoderma)	0.1% - 0.2%
jasminum sambac flower extract	0.15% - 0.25%
santalum album oil Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating	0.15% - 0.3%
daucus carota sativa root extract Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color	0.15% - 0.25%
bisabolol An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties	0.1% - 0.25%
cystine	0.15% - 0.3%
glycine Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function	0.15% - 0.25%
dipotassium glycyrrhizate A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening	0.15% - 0.25%
hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans Long sugars that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin	0.15% - 0.25%
sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin	0.15% - 0.3%
sodium hyaluronate One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin	0.15% - 0.3%
pentylene glycol Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture	0.2% - 0.35%
caprylyl glycol Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture	0.2% - 0.35%
tocopherol Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself	0.15% - 0.3%
mannitol Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin	0.15% - 0.25%
tetrasodium glutamate diacetate Helps stabilize the product formulation	0.15% - 0.25%
sodium hydroxide Used to adjust the product's pH	0.15% - 0.3%
phytic acid An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics	0.15% - 0.3%
citric acid Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH	0.15% - 0.3%
peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil Helps oil and water mix together	0.15% - 0.3%
c12-13 pareth-3	0.15% - 0.3%
xanthan gum Used to create a thicker product consistency	0.15% - 0.3%
sclerotium gum Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions	0.15% - 0.25%
polyacrylate crosspolymer-6	0.15% - 0.3%
ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate A stable derivative of pectin and vitamin C. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking. Helps create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulation	0.15% - 0.25%
glyceryl caprylate An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products	0.2% - 0.35%
p-anisic acid Helps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritating	0.1% - 0.25%
benzyl glycol Helps dissolve other ingredients and preserve products	0.1% - 0.25%
methylpropanediol Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation	0.15% - 0.25%
sodium benzoate A preservative	0.1% - 0.2%
potassium sorbate A preservative	0.1% - 0.2%
limonene A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat	0.05% - 0.1%
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