Dermalogica - Bio-Lumin Brightening Gel Moisturiser

Dermalogica Bio-Lumin Brightening Gel Moisturiser

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WORKS FOR
  • Exfoliation
  • Moisturizing
KEY INGREDIENTS
  • aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate
  • allantoin
  • biosaccharide gum-1
  • bisabolol
  • camellia sinensis leaf extract
  • centella asiatica extract
  • dipotassium glycyrrhizate
  • ergothioneine
  • glycerin
  • glycine
  • glycine soja oil
  • helianthus annuus seed oil
  • hyaluronic acid
  • hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans
  • hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid
  • hydrolyzed jojoba esters
  • hydroxyethyl urea
  • lactobacillus ferment
  • mannitol
  • sodium hyaluronate
  • sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer
  • sodium pca
  • squalane
  • tocopherol
  • trehalose
  • +22 more
PROMISES
FULFILLED
75 /100
IRRITANCY
HIGH
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Formula review

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WIMJ summary

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: hydroxyethyl urea.

Ingredient Effectiveness Concentration Irritancy
HIGH
meets threshold
LOW
meets threshold
LOW
meets threshold
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What does the product description say?
"Bio-Lumin Brightening Gel Moisturiser"
From product name
WIMJ summary

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: allantoin, biosaccharide gum-1.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, squalane.

Ingredient Effectiveness Concentration Irritancy
HIGH
meets threshold
HIGH
meets threshold
HIGH
meets threshold

Potential irritants

IRRITANCY
HIGH

Ingredients by volume

Ingredient Estimated concentration
Plain old water
45% - 55%
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
4.6% - 5.6%
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
4.1% - 5%
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
3% - 3.6%
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
2.2% - 2.7%
1.5% - 1.8%
1.5% - 1.8%
A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients
1.3% - 1.6%
A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin
1.1% - 1.3%
A more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)
0.75% - 1.1%
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
0.45% - 0.65%
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation
0.45% - 0.7%
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin
0.35% - 0.65%
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
0.3% - 0.6%
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin
0.3% - 0.5%
A preservative
0.3% - 0.55%
Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer
0.25% - 0.5%
A preservative
0.25% - 0.45%
Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking
0.2% - 0.4%
A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color
0.2% - 0.35%
A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative
0.15% - 0.3%
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
0.15% - 0.3%
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
0.15% - 0.3%
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
0.2% - 0.35%
Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating
0.1% - 0.25%
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
0.1% - 0.2%
0.1% - 0.2%
An enzyme-based exfoliant
0.1% - 0.25%
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function
0.15% - 0.25%
Used as a fragrance
0.1% - 0.2%
Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating
0.1% - 0.2%
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
0.15% - 0.3%
A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity
0.1% - 0.25%
Used as a fragrance. It can reduce skin pigmentation, but it is not safe to use for these purposes in high concentrations as use of raspberry ketone and its derivative is linked to causing loss of skin pigmentation in people (leukoderma)
0.1% - 0.2%
0.15% - 0.25%
Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating
0.15% - 0.3%
Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color
0.15% - 0.25%
An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties
0.1% - 0.25%
0.15% - 0.3%
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function
0.15% - 0.25%
A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening
0.15% - 0.25%
Long sugars that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin
0.15% - 0.25%
Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
0.15% - 0.3%
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
0.15% - 0.3%
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
0.2% - 0.35%
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
0.2% - 0.35%
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
0.15% - 0.3%
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
0.15% - 0.25%
Helps stabilize the product formulation
0.15% - 0.25%
Used to adjust the product's pH
0.15% - 0.3%
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics
0.15% - 0.3%
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
0.15% - 0.3%
Helps oil and water mix together
0.15% - 0.3%
0.15% - 0.3%
Used to create a thicker product consistency
0.15% - 0.3%
Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions
0.15% - 0.25%
0.15% - 0.3%
A stable derivative of pectin and vitamin C. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking. Helps create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulation
0.15% - 0.25%
An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products
0.2% - 0.35%
Helps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritating
0.1% - 0.25%
Helps dissolve other ingredients and preserve products
0.1% - 0.25%
Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation
0.15% - 0.25%
A preservative
0.1% - 0.2%
A preservative
0.1% - 0.2%
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
0.05% - 0.1%

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