Dermalogica Bio-Lumin Brightening Gel Moisturiser

Bio-Lumin Brightening Gel Moisturiser

Efficacy 75/100·High irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

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Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing
21 ingredients contribute at the levels below
Good evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: biosaccharide gum-1, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, squalane.

BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1Role: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.3–0.5%
CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACTRole: Key activeCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.15–0.3%
CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACTRole: Under-dosedA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.2–0.35%
DIPOTASSIUM GLYCYRRHIZATERole: Under-dosedA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.15–0.25%
GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.6–5.6%
GLYCINERole: Key activeHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.15–0.25%
GLYCINE SOJA OILRole: Key activeA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.15–0.25%
HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OILRole: Key activeA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.15–0.3%
HYALURONIC ACIDRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.45–0.7%
HYDROLYZED GLYCOSAMINOGLYCANSRole: Key activeLong sugars that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%
HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACIDRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.35–0.65%
HYDROLYZED JOJOBA ESTERSRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%
HYDROXYETHYL UREARole: Key activeA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~1.3–1.6%
LACTOBACILLUS FERMENTRole: Key activeA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.15–0.3%
MANNITOLRole: Key activeHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%
SODIUM HYALURONATERole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMERRole: Key activeAttracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
SODIUM PCARole: Key activeNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.25–0.5%
SQUALANERole: Key activeAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~4.1–5%
ALLANTOINRole: Under-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.45–0.65%
TREHALOSERole: Key activeA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.3%
Exfoliation
HYDROXYETHYL UREA at ~1.3–1.6% delivers this without it being on the label
Quiet bonus

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: hydroxyethyl urea.

HYDROXYETHYL UREARole: Key activeA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~1.3–1.6%
ALLANTOINRole: Under-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.45–0.65%
GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.6–5.6%
SqualaneRole: Key activeAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~4.1–5%
TrehaloseRole: Key activeA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.3%
Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphateRole: Key activeA more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)~0.75–1.1%
Hyaluronic acidRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.45–0.7%
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.35–0.65%
Hydrolyzed jojoba estersRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%
Biosaccharide gum-1Role: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.3–0.5%
Sodium pcaRole: Key activeNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.25–0.5%
Lactobacillus fermentRole: Key activeA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.15–0.3%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractRole: Key activeCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.15–0.3%
Glycine soja oilRole: Key activeA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.15–0.25%
Helianthus annuus seed oilRole: Key activeA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.15–0.3%
GlycineRole: Key activeHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.15–0.25%
Hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycansRole: Key activeLong sugars that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerRole: Key activeAttracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
Sodium hyaluronateRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
MannitolRole: Key activeHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%
Irritancy
26 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 26 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.25%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Citrus paradisi peel oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.1–0.25%est.
Raspberry ketoneUsed as a fragrance. It can reduce skin pigmentation, but it is not safe to use for these purposes in high concentrations as use of raspberry ketone and its derivative is linked to causing loss of skin pigmentation in people (leukoderma)High~0.1–0.2%est.
Santalum album oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
P-anisic acidHelps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.25%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphateA more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)Low~0.75–1.1%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.3–0.55%est.
Sodium levulinateA preservativeLow~0.25–0.45%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinLow~0.15–0.3%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Low~0.2–0.35%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsLow~0.1–0.2%est.
Lactobacillus/pumpkin ferment extractAn enzyme-based exfoliantLow~0.1–0.25%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Low~0.15–0.25%est.
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerAttracts water into the upper layer of the skinLow~0.15–0.3%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureLow~0.2–0.35%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureLow~0.2–0.35%est.
Phytic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmeticsLow~0.15–0.3%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHLow~0.15–0.3%est.
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.15–0.3%est.
Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinateA stable derivative of pectin and vitamin C. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking. Helps create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulationLow~0.15–0.25%est.
Benzyl glycolHelps dissolve other ingredients and preserve productsLow~0.1–0.25%est.
MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationLow~0.15–0.25%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeLow~0.1–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
Glycine soja oil ~0.15–0.25% — rinse-off or low %
Low risk
We flag 1 ingredient with a low-to-moderate comedogenic rating — at these concentrations, or in rinse-off use, they're unlikely to clog pores for most skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Med~0.15–0.25%est.
~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Glycerin~4.6–5.6%
Key active
Squalane~4.1–5%
Key active
Propanediol~3–3.6%
Formula
Butylene glycol~2.2–2.7%
Formula
Ppg-24-glycereth-24~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Jojoba wax peg-120 esters~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Hydroxyethyl urea~1.3–1.6%
Key active
Trehalose~1.1–1.3%
Key active
Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate~0.75–1.1%
Key activeLow-irritation
Allantoin~0.45–0.65%
Under-dosed
Hyaluronic acid~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Hydrolyzed jojoba esters~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Biosaccharide gum-1~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.3–0.55%
Low-irritation
Sodium pca~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Sodium levulinate~0.25–0.45%
Low-irritation
Ergothioneine~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Beta-carotene~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Lactobacillus ferment~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.15–0.3%
Low-irritation
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Centella asiatica extract~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosedLow-irritation
Chamomilla recutita flower extract~0.1–0.25%
Irritant · high
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.1–0.2%
Low-irritation
Verbascum thapsus extract~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Lactobacillus/pumpkin ferment extract~0.1–0.25%
Low-irritation
Glycine soja oil~0.15–0.25%
Key activeComedo · mediumLow-irritation
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel extract~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Citrus paradisi peel oil~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.1–0.25%
Irritant · high
Raspberry ketone~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Jasminum sambac flower extract~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Santalum album oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Bisabolol~0.1–0.25%
Formula
Cystine~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Glycine~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.15–0.25%
Under-dosed
Hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer~0.15–0.3%
Key activeLow-irritation
Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Pentylene glycol~0.2–0.35%
Low-irritation
Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.35%
Low-irritation
Tocopherol~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Mannitol~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Sodium hydroxide~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Phytic acid~0.15–0.3%
Low-irritation
Citric acid~0.15–0.3%
Low-irritation
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil~0.15–0.3%
Low-irritation
C12-13 pareth-3~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Xanthan gum~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Sclerotium gum~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate~0.15–0.25%
Low-irritation
Glyceryl caprylate~0.2–0.35%
Formula
P-anisic acid~0.1–0.25%
Irritant · high
Benzyl glycol~0.1–0.25%
Low-irritation
Methylpropanediol~0.15–0.25%
Low-irritation
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Potassium sorbate~0.1–0.2%
Low-irritation
Limonene~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high

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