Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 4
Key actives
Product Summary
"Derm Institute - Youth Alchemy Repairing Oil" has a good moisturizing formula. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (algae extract) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Algae extract, helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, limnanthes alba seed oil, phytosterols and phytosteryl macadamiate in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- this moisturizer includes a form of retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.15% - 0.55%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
- This moistruizer also contains peptides (acetyl tetrapeptide-17 0.15% - 0.50%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
Irritation risk
This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails from 220.00$ up to 240.00$ in the United States and from 200.00£ up to 284.00£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Works for
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing
A plant extract that may contain a small amount of essential oils. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin
An emollient that softens the skin
An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.
An algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties
A good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
A versatile product, this oil can also be mixed with moisturiser for added hydration.
Source: SpaceNK US
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
algae extract.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl tetrapeptide-17
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
Lipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
A good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin without creatng a greasy finish
An algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties
An emollient that softens the skin
A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid
An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation
An emollient that helps soften the skin. It also forms a protective on its surface to reduce water loss.
An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Formulated with plant-based collagen it helps to visibly plump the skin and reduce signs of ageing.
Source: SpaceNK
This product contains acetyl tetrapeptide-17. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
A mineral that is claimed to be able to support collagen product in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is missing
An emollient that softens the skin
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Anti-aging |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 87/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Derm Institute Youth Alchemy Repairing Oil | Current | $200.00 | |
Dr. Brandt Do Not Age with Dr. Brandt Time Reversing Cream | 46% | $102.96 | |
 Dime Beauty Co Blue Facial Oil | 32% | $38.00 | |
Tatcha Gold Camellia Beauty Oil - For Face, Body & Hair | Tatcha | 32% | $-1.00 | |
 Herbivore Botanicals Lapis Blue Tansy Face Oil - For Oily & Acne-Prone Skin | 32% | $72.00 | |
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Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Squalane, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Diisopropyl sebacate, Isodecyl neopentanoate, Lauryl lactate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Teprenone, Spilanthes acmella flower extract, Octyldodecanol, Ribes nigrum seed oil, Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Ubiquinone, Salicornia herbacea extract, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Unknown, Limnanthes alba seed oil, Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, Triticum vulgare germ oil, Moringa oleifera seed oil, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopheryl acetate, Persea gratissima oil, Sambucus nigra fruit extract, Jojoba oil/macadamia seed oil esters, Phytosteryl macadamiate, Phytosterols, Crithmum maritimum extract, Capryloyl heptapeptide-12, Colloidal gold, Acetyl tetrapeptide-17, Colloidal platinum, Corallina officinalis extract, Algae extract, Malachite extract, Parfum
- Transdermal behaviour of the N-alkylamide spilanthol (affinin) from Spilanthes acmella (Compositae) extracts
- Evidence for the efficacy and safety of topical herbal drugs in dermatology: Part I: Anti-inflammatory agents
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Allergic contact dermatitis induced by rosemary leaf extract in a cleansing gel
- Safety Assessment of Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- Rosmarinus officinalis Extract Suppresses Propionibacterium acnes–Induced Inflammatory Responses
- Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils
- Moringa oleifera seed oil: Composition, nutritional aspects and health attributes
- Moringa oleifera Seeds and Oil: Characteristics and Uses for Human Health
- Assessment report on Sambucus nigra L., fructus
- SKIN PROTECTION AGAINST SOLAR UV RADIATION BY NATURAL PLANT PRODUCTS: EXTRACTS FROM ELDER FRUIT (SAMBUCUS NIGRA L.)
- Safety Assessment of Phytosterols as Used in Cosmetics
- Use of iron in the form of a stone extract as stimulus of the synthesis of collagen by skin fibroblasts