Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Essence

Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Essence

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium

Works for

Anti-aging
Ascorbyl glucoside, Retinyl palmitate + 3 more
May help
What the product description says
“younger-looking skin”
Source: SpaceNK

This product contains adenosine triphosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, resveratrol, retinyl palmitate. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1.5–1.8%
Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.35–0.65%
Adenosine triphosphateKey activeEffect: Medium~0.3–0.6%
ResveratrolKey activeEffect: MediumHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.1–0.2%
Sodium ascorbateUnder-dosed~0.5–0.75%
Evens skin tone
Dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitate, Ascorbyl glucoside + 4 more
May help
What the product description says
“minimise the look of dark spots and uneven tone”
Source: SpaceNK

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: ascorbyl glucoside, dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitate, resveratrol, retinyl palmitate.

Dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumAn oil-soluble compound that has been shown in laboratory studies (in a petri dish, not on human volunteers) to inhibit melanin production in skin and help even out the skin tone. More research is needed to understand if it works in real life~2.3–2.8%
Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1.5–1.8%
Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.35–0.65%
ResveratrolEffect: LowHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.1–0.2%
Morus bombycis root extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that might contain arbutin, a compound that has skin-lightening properties. Might have some anti-oxidant activity. Is unlikely to be effective though in the concentrations typically used in skincare products~0.3–0.6%
Sodium ascorbateUnder-dosed~0.5–0.75%
Moisturizing
Sodium chondroitin sulfate, Squalane + 7 more
Works
What the product description says
“nourishing skincare treatment”
Source: SpaceNK

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: sodium chondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalane, pentylene glycol.

Sodium chondroitin sulfateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighIs naturally present in skin. Helps to attract water to its upper layer~1.5–1.9%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.55–0.8%
ProlineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.35–0.65%
Hydrolyzed vegetable proteinKey activeEffect: Medium~0.3–0.6%
Vitis vinifera fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin, but is less potent than the extract from the seeds~0.3–0.6%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.45–0.7%
Scutellaria baicalensis root extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties~0.3–0.55%
AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.35%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Ascorbyl glucoside, Resveratrol + 6 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (resveratrol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - ascorbyl glucoside also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1.5–1.8%
ResveratrolKey activeEffect: HighHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.1–0.2%
Malpighia glabra fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lacking~3.9–4.7%
Scutellaria baicalensis root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties~0.3–0.55%
Vitis vinifera fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin, but is less potent than the extract from the seeds~0.3–0.6%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.5–0.75%
Sodium ascorbateUnder-dosed~0.5–0.75%
ErgothioneineUnder-dosedCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking~0.15–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Retinyl palmitate, Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 21 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
Morus bombycis root extractA plant extract that might contain arbutin, a compound that has skin-lightening properties. Might have some anti-oxidant activity. Is unlikely to be effective though in the concentrations typically used in skincare productsHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
Scutellaria baicalensis root extractA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant propertiesHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Melia azadirachta leaf extractA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Malpighia glabra fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lackingMedium~3.9–4.7%est.
Sigesbeckia orientalis extractA plant extract that can contain an anti-inflammatory compoundMedium~4.2–5.2%est.
Dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitateAn oil-soluble compound that has been shown in laboratory studies (in a petri dish, not on human volunteers) to inhibit melanin production in skin and help even out the skin tone. More research is needed to understand if it works in real lifeMedium~2.3–2.8%est.
Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~1.5–1.8%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.7–1.05%est.
EthoxydiglycolHelps to improve the product consistencyMedium~0.6–0.85%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.5–0.75%est.
Glyceryl linoleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Vitis vinifera fruit extractA plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin, but is less potent than the extract from the seedsMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
ResveratrolHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin toneMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Sodium metabisulfiteA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Malpighia glabra fruit extract~3.9–4.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lacking

More about Malpighia glabra fruit extract
Sigesbeckia orientalis extract~4.2–5.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can contain an anti-inflammatory compound

More about Sigesbeckia orientalis extract
Rabdosia rubescens extract~3.1–3.8%
Formula
Dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitate~2.3–2.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin tone

An oil-soluble compound that has been shown in laboratory studies (in a petri dish, not on human volunteers) to inhibit melanin production in skin and help even out the skin tone. More research is needed to understand if it works in real life

More about Dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitate
Malic acid~1.9–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust the product pH

More about Malic acid
Sodium chondroitin sulfate~1.5–1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Is naturally present in skin. Helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium chondroitin sulfate
Ascorbyl glucoside~1.5–1.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside
Sigesbeckia orientalis extract~1.2–1.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can contain an anti-inflammatory compound

More about Sigesbeckia orientalis extract
Rabdosia rubescens extract~0.95–1.15%
Formula
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.7–1.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Ethoxydiglycol~0.6–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to improve the product consistency

More about Ethoxydiglycol
Bacopa monnieri extract~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Propanediol~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Squalane~0.55–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Sodium ascorbate~0.5–0.75%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging
More about Sodium ascorbate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Glyceryl linoleate~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Glyceryl linoleate
Retinyl palmitate~0.35–0.65%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Pentylene glycol~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Acetyl tyrosine~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Proline~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Proline
Hydrolyzed vegetable protein~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Hydrolyzed vegetable protein
Adenosine triphosphate~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-aging
More about Adenosine triphosphate
Sodium polyacrylate~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions

More about Sodium polyacrylate
Trideceth-6~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Trideceth-6
Dioscorea villosa root extract~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Soybean(glycine soja) sterols
Not recognized
Morus bombycis root extract~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin tone

A plant extract that might contain arbutin, a compound that has skin-lightening properties. Might have some anti-oxidant activity. Is unlikely to be effective though in the concentrations typically used in skincare products

More about Morus bombycis root extract
Saxifraga sarmentosa extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Vitis vinifera fruit extract~0.3–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin, but is less potent than the extract from the seeds

More about Vitis vinifera fruit extract
Scutellaria baicalensis root extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationMoisturizingReduces irritationAntibacterial

A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties

More about Scutellaria baicalensis root extract
Citric acid~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sodium citrate~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Melia azadirachta leaf extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating

More about Melia azadirachta leaf extract
Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Xanthan gum~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Allantoin~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Potassium hydroxide~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide
Disodium edta~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Parfum~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ergothioneine~0.15–0.25%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking

More about Ergothioneine
Resveratrol~0.1–0.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone

More about Resveratrol
Sodium metabisulfite~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium metabisulfite
Ingredient list view

Water, Malpighia glabra fruit extract, Sigesbeckia orientalis extract, Rabdosia rubescens extract, Dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitate, Malic acid, Sodium chondroitin sulfate, Ascorbyl glucoside, Sigesbeckia orientalis extract, Rabdosia rubescens extract, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Ethoxydiglycol, Bacopa monnieri extract, Propanediol, Squalane, Sodium ascorbate, Tocopheryl acetate, Glyceryl linoleate, Retinyl palmitate, Pentylene glycol, Acetyl tyrosine, Proline, Hydrolyzed vegetable protein, Adenosine triphosphate, Sodium polyacrylate, Trideceth-6, Dioscorea villosa root extract, Unknown, Morus bombycis root extract, Saxifraga sarmentosa extract, Vitis vinifera fruit extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Citric acid, Sodium citrate, Melia azadirachta leaf extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Xanthan gum, Allantoin, Potassium hydroxide, Disodium edta, Parfum, Ergothioneine, Resveratrol, Sodium metabisulfite

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SpaceNK US
$72.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Derm InstituteCellular Brightening EssenceYOUR PRODUCTOXYjetSerum 1colibri skincareAntioxidant SerumPaula's choice10% Niacinamide Booster
Match—35%34%33%
Price$72.00—$19.21−$52.79$49.58−$22.42
Shared key ingredients—4 of 134 of 133 of 13
Key difference—PanthenolNiacinamideNiacinamide
Irritancy Medium Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 27 studies and safety reviews.

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Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Essence
Derm InstituteCellular Brightening Essence

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.