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DALCHMY D'ALCHÉMY INTENSE SKIN REPAIR OIL
DALCHMY

DALCHMY D'ALCHÉMY INTENSE SKIN REPAIR OIL

Efficacy41/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
18 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Supports defence mechanisms and stimulates skin regeneration.”
Source: Feelunique

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: caprylic/capric triglyceride, cocos nucifera oil.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

Beta-sitosterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated~0.3–0.75%
Mauritia flexuosa fruit oilKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.7%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seedKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~5.1–7.6%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~1.5–2.3%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~5–7.5%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~4–6%
SqualeneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.35–0.8%
Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~0.4–0.95%
Vitis vinifera seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~2.9–4.3%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~23–34%
Argania spinosa kernel oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~1.6–2.5%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~0.35–0.85%
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~0.4–0.95%
Linum usitatissimum seed oilEffect: Low~0.35–0.8%
Isopropyl isostearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin~2.1–3.2%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.2–0.75%
Persea gratissima oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~0.45–1%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.7%
Anti-aging
1 ingredient credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Argan and linseed oils – effectively moisturise and soften the epidermis, reduce the volume and appearance of wrinkles, and help restore the skin's hydro-lipid barrier by stimulating its regeneration.”
Source: Feelunique

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.

This ingredient squalene might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.7%
Evens skin tone
No ingredient credited for this claim
No support
What the product description says
“Camu camu fruit extract – rejuvenates the skin, eliminates lines and wrinkles, and lightens hyperpigmentation.”
Source: Feelunique

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 8 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (squalene) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

SqualeneKey activeEffect: MediumAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.35–0.8%
Myrciaria dubia fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lacking~0.4–0.95%
Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lacking~0.45–1.05%
Vitis vinifera seed oilEffect: LowA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~2.9–4.3%
Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extractEffect: LowA berry extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.5–1.2%
Argania spinosa kernel oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~1.6–2.5%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.7%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.15–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
13 strong irritants: Rosa damascena extract, Rosa damascena flower oil + 11 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 26 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Paullinia cupana fruit extract—High~0.85–1.3%est.
Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extractA berry extract. Might have some anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.5–1.2%est.
Rosa damascena extractOil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.High~0.3–0.7%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.75%est.
Pistacia lentiscus gumA tree rasin that could temporarily tighten the skin and might help regulate sebum production, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lackingHigh~0.35–0.85%est.
Santalum album wood oil—High~0.15–0.7%est.
Eugenia caryophyllus bud oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.5%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
EugenolA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~23–34%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~5–7.5%est.
Vitis vinifera seed oilA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~2.9–4.3%est.
Argania spinosa kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~1.6–2.5%est.
Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lackingMedium~0.45–1.05%est.
Myrciaria dubia fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lackingMedium~0.4–0.95%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~0.45–1%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~0.4–0.95%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~0.35–0.85%est.
Mauritia flexuosa fruit oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.2–0.7%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Isopropyl isostearateAn emollient that helps soften the skin3/5~2.1–3.2%est.
Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.4–0.95%est.
SqualeneAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast2/5~0.35–0.8%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~23–34%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed~5.1–7.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~5–7.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Squalane~4–6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Vitis vinifera seed oil~2.9–4.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties

More about Vitis vinifera seed oil
Isopropyl isostearate~2.1–3.2%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Isopropyl isostearate
Argania spinosa kernel oil~1.6–2.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties

More about Argania spinosa kernel oil
Helianthus annuus seed oil~1.5–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Malpighia emarginata fruit extract~1.1–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Malpighia emarginata fruit extract
Paullinia cupana fruit extract~0.85–1.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Paullinia cupana fruit extract
Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extract~0.5–1.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A berry extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extract
Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract~0.45–1.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lacking

More about Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract
Myrciaria dubia fruit extract~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lacking

More about Myrciaria dubia fruit extract
Cocos nucifera oil~0.4–0.95%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil
Linum usitatissimum seed oil~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Linum usitatissimum seed oil
Persea gratissima oil~0.45–1%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~0.4–0.95%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Olea europaea fruit oil~0.35–0.85%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Rosa damascena extract~0.3–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Pistacia lentiscus gum~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemish

A tree rasin that could temporarily tighten the skin and might help regulate sebum production, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Pistacia lentiscus gum
Santalum album wood oil~0.15–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Santalum album wood oil
Mauritia flexuosa fruit oil~0.2–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Mauritia flexuosa fruit oil
Eugenia caryophyllus bud oil~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Eugenia caryophyllus bud oil
Rosmarinus officinalis oil~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Rosmarinus officinalis oil
Beta-sitosterol~0.3–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated

More about Beta-sitosterol
Tocopherol~0.15–0.7%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Squalene~0.35–0.8%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast

More about Squalene
Parfum~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Citral~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Citronellol~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Eugenol~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Eugenol
Farnesol~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Geraniol~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Linalool~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Limonene~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Ingredient list view

Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Squalane, Vitis vinifera seed oil, Isopropyl isostearate, Argania spinosa kernel oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Malpighia emarginata fruit extract, Paullinia cupana fruit extract, Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extract, Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract, Myrciaria dubia fruit extract, Cocos nucifera oil, Linum usitatissimum seed oil, Persea gratissima oil, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Olea europaea fruit oil, Rosa damascena extract, Rosa damascena flower oil, Pistacia lentiscus gum, Santalum album wood oil, Mauritia flexuosa fruit oil, Eugenia caryophyllus bud oil, Rosmarinus officinalis oil, Beta-sitosterol, Tocopherol, Squalene, Parfum, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Citral, Citronellol, Eugenol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Linalool, Limonene

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 21 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Natural vegetable fats in the prevention of irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  3. 3
    Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
  4. 4
    Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  6. 6
    Abundance of active ingredients in sea-buckthorn oilncbi.nlm.nih.gov
DALCHMY D'ALCHÉMY INTENSE SKIN REPAIR OIL
DALCHMYD'ALCHÉMY INTENSE SKIN REPAIR OIL
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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.