Charles + Lee

Charles + Lee Hand Cream

Name: Charles + Lee - Hand Cream
Brand: Charles + Lee

Efficacy41/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

1 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

Theobroma cacao seed butter, Glycerin + 9 more

Good evidence

What the product description says

“A natural non-greasy moisturiser crafted with Argan, Grape Seed Hemp Seed oils to intensely hydrate, and Aloe Vera to nourish, soften and help reduce the appearance of dark spots.”

Source: Recreate Yourself

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycine soja oil, helianthus annuus hybrid oil.

Theobroma cacao seed butterKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.55–1.25%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.4–5.1%

Helianthus annuus hybrid oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.7–2.6%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.45–1.05%

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that softens the skin~4.4–6.7%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.1–1.7%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~2.5–3.7%

Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~1.5–2.2%

Stearic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~1.4–2%

Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.9–1.35%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.7%

Anti-aging

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, Tocopherol + 1 more

Limited evidence

What the product description says

“Shea Butter - moisturises and helps restore elasticity in the skin.”

Source: Lookfantastic Australia

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.

This ingredient ginkgo biloba leaf extract might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin~4.4–6.7%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.9–1.35%

Evens skin tone

No ingredient credited for this claim

No evidence

What the product description says

“A natural non-greasy moisturiser crafted with Argan, Grape Seed Hemp Seed oils to intensely hydrate, and Aloe Vera to nourish, soften and help reduce the appearance of dark spots.”

Source: Recreate Yourself

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Ginkgo biloba leaf extract, Theobroma cacao seed butter + 4 more

Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (ginkgo biloba leaf extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Ginkgo biloba leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating~0.4–0.9%

Theobroma cacao seed butterEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.55–1.25%

Daucus carota sativa root extractEffect: LowCarrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color~0.35–0.75%

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin~4.4–6.7%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

2 strong irritants: Parfum, Alcohol

Medium risk

We flagged 12 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Ginkgo biloba leaf extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.9%est.

Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.85%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.5%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.01–0.1%est.

Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~2–3%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.45–1.05%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.4%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.1–0.35%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.3%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.25%est.

Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.15%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.9–1.35%est.

Theobroma cacao seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect3/5~0.55–1.25%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.1–1.7%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.45–1.05%est.

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Ingredients

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Water~40–60%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil~4.4–6.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

An emollient that softens the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil

Glycerin~3.4–5.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Glyceryl stearate~2.5–3.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Potassium cetyl phosphate~2–3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate

Helianthus annuus hybrid oil~1.7–2.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Helianthus annuus hybrid oil

Palmitic acid~1.5–2.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid

Stearic acid~1.4–2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Cetearyl alcohol~1.1–1.7%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.9–1.35%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Theobroma cacao seed butter~0.55–1.25%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-dandruff

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Theobroma cacao seed butter

Glycine soja oil~0.45–1.05%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Ginkgo biloba leaf extract~0.4–0.9%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating

More about Ginkgo biloba leaf extract

Chamomilla recutita flower extract~0.35–0.85%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract

Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.35–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color

More about Daucus carota sativa root extract

Beta-carotene~0.3–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene

Tocopherol~0.2–0.7%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Parfum~0.1–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Xanthan gum~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Citric acid~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Sodium citrate~0.1–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Disodium edta~0.05–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Potassium sorbate~0.05–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Benzyl alcohol~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol

Dehydroacetic acid~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid

Alcohol~0.01–0.1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol

Ingredient list view

Water, Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, Glycerin, Glyceryl stearate, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Helianthus annuus hybrid oil, Palmitic acid, Stearic acid, Cetearyl alcohol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Theobroma cacao seed butter, Glycine soja oil, Ginkgo biloba leaf extract, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Daucus carota sativa root extract, Beta-carotene, Tocopherol, Parfum, Xanthan gum, Citric acid, Sodium citrate, Disodium edta, Potassium sorbate, Benzyl alcohol, Dehydroacetic acid, Alcohol

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 8 studies and safety reviews.

1
Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oilsmdpi.com
2
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Cocoa polyphenols and their influence on parameters involved in ex vivo skin restructuringncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Safety Assessment of Ginkgo biloba-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
5
Cosmeceutical Critique: Ginkgo Bilobamdedge.com
6
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
7
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
8
4 Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acidjournals.sagepub.com

Charles + LeeHand Cream

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