Chantecaille

Chantecaille 24 Karat Gold Firminig Moisturizer

Name: Chantecaille - 24 Karat Gold Firminig Moisturizer
Brand: Chantecaille

Efficacy58/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

2 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

27 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“24 Karat Gold Firminig Moisturizer”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: biosaccharide gum-1, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl heptapeptide-9, palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Acetyl heptapeptide-9HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.45%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.45%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.3%

Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.1–0.35%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.15–0.5%

UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.1–0.35%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.5%

Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.1–0.35%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~5.3–7.9%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–6.2%

Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymerKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistency~0.1–0.35%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.1–0.5%

Imperata cylindrica root extractKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA plat extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~1.4–2.1%

Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonineHeroEffect: High~0.1–0.35%

Dunaliella salina extractKey activeEffect: MediumA green micro-algae extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but solid evidence is lacking. It helps to soften the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.3%

Rosa damascena flower water· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~25–37%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.8–1.25%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.7%

Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.15–0.55%

BiotinEffect: LowMight have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect~0.1–0.4%

Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.1–0.35%

Cucumis sativus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect~0.1–0.35%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.35%

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.1–0.35%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.1–0.5%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.5%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.1–0.45%

Anti-aging

9 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

What the product description says

“Key Benefits Gold Heptapeptide Softens the appearance of wrinkles* MatrixylTM 3000 Tripeptide A unique blend of peptides that helps promote a more toned appearance while lessening the visible appearance of wrinkles Apple Stem Cells Complex Lessens the appearance of lines and wrinkles for a more youthful appearance* Microalgae Dunaliella Salina Extract Re-energizes and softens the look of rough and uneven skin tone promoting a more luminous and youthful glow * Palmitoyl Dipeptide 5 and 6 Promote more toned and smoother looking skin* Imperata Cylindrica Extract Known for its ability to thrive in arid climates, helps skin retain moisture efficiently .”

Source: Bluemercury

This product contains acetyl heptapeptide-9, palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.1–0.35%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.45%

Acetyl heptapeptide-9Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.45%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.5%

UbiquinoneEffect: LowCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.1–0.35%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.1–0.5%

Evens skin tone

2 ingredients credited for this claim

Weak support

What the product description says

“Key Benefits Gold Heptapeptide Softens the appearance of wrinkles* MatrixylTM 3000 Tripeptide A unique blend of peptides that helps promote a more toned appearance while lessening the visible appearance of wrinkles Apple Stem Cells Complex Lessens the appearance of lines and wrinkles for a more youthful appearance* Microalgae Dunaliella Salina Extract Re-energizes and softens the look of rough and uneven skin tone promoting a more luminous and youthful glow * Palmitoyl Dipeptide 5 and 6 Promote more toned and smoother looking skin* Imperata Cylindrica Extract Known for its ability to thrive in arid climates, helps skin retain moisture efficiently .”

Source: Bluemercury

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 9 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - imperata cylindrica root extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Imperata cylindrica root extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plat extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~1.4–2.1%

Dunaliella salina extractEffect: LowA green micro-algae extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but solid evidence is lacking. It helps to soften the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.3%

Rosa damascena flower waterEffect: LowUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~25–37%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.35%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.1–0.5%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.1–0.45%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.1–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

8 strong irritants: Rosa damascena flower water, Tilia platyphyllos flower water + 6 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 33 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Rosa damascena flower waterUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritatingHigh~25–37%est.

Tilia platyphyllos flower water—High~0.1–0.4%est.

Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.

Citrus aurantium amara flower wax—High~0.1–0.35%est.

Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.3%est.

Coco-glucosideUsed as a cleansing agent (surfactant) in cleansers. Helps water and oil mix together in lotions. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.5%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.2%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.25%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~5.3–7.9%est.

C12-20 acid peg-8 esterHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~2.3–3.5%est.

Imperata cylindrica root extractA plat extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layerMedium~1.4–2.1%est.

Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–1.1%est.

HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.35–0.75%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.7%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.6%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.55%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.15–0.5%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.1–0.35%est.

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.1–0.35%est.

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.1–0.5%est.

Phytic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmeticsMedium~0.1–0.35%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.1–0.4%est.

Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymerHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistencyMedium~0.1–0.35%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.1–0.35%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.1–0.35%est.

Cucumis sativus fruit extractMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effectMedium~0.1–0.35%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.65%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.35%est.

Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.4%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.35%est.

Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.3%est.

Comedogenic

Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients

None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Rosa damascena flower water~25–37%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower water

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~5.3–7.9%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Glycerin~4.2–6.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Water~3.3–5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

C12-20 acid peg-8 ester~2.3–3.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about C12-20 acid peg-8 ester

Propanediol~1.8–2.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Imperata cylindrica root extract~1.4–2.1%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plat extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer

More about Imperata cylindrica root extract

Silica~1.3–2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica

Butylene glycol~0.8–1.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.45–1.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate

Carbomer~0.45–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Hydroxyacetophenone~0.35–0.75%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone

Mica~0.4–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica

Ci 77891~0.2–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Ci 77891

Titanium dioxide~0.3–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide

Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

1,2-hexanediol~0.15–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.15–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Tilia platyphyllos flower water~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Tilia platyphyllos flower water

Sodium hydroxide~0.1–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Malus domestica fruit cell culture extract~0.1–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Malus domestica fruit cell culture extract

Dunaliella salina extract~0.1–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A green micro-algae extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but solid evidence is lacking. It helps to soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Dunaliella salina extract

Squalane~0.15–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Sodium hyaluronate~0.1–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Tocopheryl acetate~0.1–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Maltodextrin~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin

Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.1–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAntibacterialReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.1–0.5%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.1–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Phytic acid~0.1–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics

More about Phytic acid

Tocopherol~0.1–0.35%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Polysorbate 60~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Biosaccharide gum-1~0.1–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1

Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer~0.1–0.35%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistency

More about Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer

Sodium lactate~0.1–0.35%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate

Rosa damascena flower oil~0.1–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil

Xanthan gum~0.1–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Colloidal gold~0.1–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Colloidal gold

Acacia dealbata flower wax~0.1–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Acacia dealbata flower wax

Citrus aurantium amara flower wax~0.1–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower wax

Jasminum grandiflorum flower wax~0.1–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Jasminum grandiflorum flower wax

Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.1–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens oil

Colloidal gold~0.1–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Colloidal gold

Coco-glucoside~0.15–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Cleansing

Used as a cleansing agent (surfactant) in cleansers. Helps water and oil mix together in lotions. Can be irritating

More about Coco-glucoside

Sodium citrate~0.1–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine~0.1–0.35%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

More about Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine

Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminohydroxybutyrate~0.1–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminohydroxybutyrate

Ubiquinone~0.1–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-aging

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Ubiquinone

Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Sorbitan isostearate~0.1–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate

Lecithin~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Cucumis sativus fruit extract~0.1–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect

More about Cucumis sativus fruit extract

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Citric acid~0.1–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Glyceryl caprylate~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.1–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.1–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.1–0.45%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Dehydroacetic acid~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid

Biotin~0.1–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect

More about Biotin

Acetyl heptapeptide-9~0.1–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl heptapeptide-9

Potassium sorbate~0.1–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Benzyl alcohol~0.05–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol

Benzoic acid~0.1–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid

Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Citronellol~0.05–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol

Geraniol~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol

Linalool~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Ingredient list view

Rosa damascena flower water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Water, C12-20 acid peg-8 ester, Propanediol, Imperata cylindrica root extract, Silica, Butylene glycol, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Carbomer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Mica, Ci 77891, Titanium dioxide, Caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Tilia platyphyllos flower water, Sodium hydroxide, Malus domestica fruit cell culture extract, Dunaliella salina extract, Squalane, Sodium hyaluronate, Tocopheryl acetate, Maltodextrin, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Phytic acid, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 60, Biosaccharide gum-1, Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, Sodium lactate, Rosa damascena flower oil, Xanthan gum, Colloidal gold, Acacia dealbata flower wax, Citrus aurantium amara flower wax, Jasminum grandiflorum flower wax, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Colloidal gold, Coco-glucoside, Sodium citrate, Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminohydroxybutyrate, Ubiquinone, Sodium benzoate, Sorbitan isostearate, Lecithin, Cucumis sativus fruit extract, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Citric acid, Glyceryl caprylate, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Dehydroacetic acid, Biotin, Acetyl heptapeptide-9, Potassium sorbate, Benzyl alcohol, Benzoic acid, Phenoxyethanol, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool

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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "Chantecaille - 24 Karat Gold Firminig Moisturizer" can work well for skin moisturization. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Chantecaille - 24 Karat Gold Firminig Moisturizer ticks this box. Biosaccharide gum-1, glycerin, glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, imperata cylindrica root extract and sodium hyaluronate in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil and squalane in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (acetyl heptapeptide-9 0.10% - 0.45%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.10% - 0.50%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.10% - 0.45% and palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine 0.10% - 0.35%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Chantecaille" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.

1
Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts ec.europa.eu
2
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Allergic contact dermatitis from grassespubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Dunaliella salina alga extract inhibits the production of interleukin-6, nitric oxide, and reactive oxygen species by regulating nuclear factor-κB/Janus kinase/signal transducer and activator of transcription in virus-infected RAW264.7 cellssciencedirect.com
6
Biochemical composition and bioactivity screening of various extracts from Dunaliella salina, a green microalgancbi.nlm.nih.gov
7
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
9
Assessment of penetration of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate into biological membranes by molecular dynamicssciencedirect.com
10
Stability evaluation of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in isolation and incorporated in cosmetic formulations using thermal analysisscielo.br
11
A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative propertiessciencedirect.com
12
New lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), suppresses senile lentigo through controlling of melanocytes-keratinocytes interactionmorressier.com
13
Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
14
Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
15
Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
16
Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
17
Cosmetic and dermatologic use of alpha hydroxy acidsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
18
Comparative Evaluation of Efficacy and Tolerability of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Mandelic Acid, and Phytic Acid Combination Peels in Melasmancbi.nlm.nih.gov
19
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
20
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
21
In Vitro Assessment of Skin Irritation Potential of Surfactant-based Formulations by Using a 3-D Skin Reconstructed Tissue Model and Cytokine Responseresearchgate.net
22
Allergen of the Year—Alkyl Glucosidepracticeupdate.com
23
4 Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acidjournals.sagepub.com

Chantecaille24 Karat Gold Firminig Moisturizer

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