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Baxter of California Hydro Salve Lip Balm
Baxter of California

Baxter of California Hydro Salve Lip Balm

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
Panthenol, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil + 10 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Hydro Salve Lip Balm”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: panthenol, aloe barbadensis extract.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: beeswax, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~3.4–5.2%
BeeswaxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.45–1%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~1.2–1.7%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~5.7–8.6%
Vitis vinifera seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~4.2–6.4%
Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~0.45–1.05%
IsododecaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture~23–34%
C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~5.1–7.7%
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~1–1.5%
Aloe barbadensis extract· HumectantEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.3–0.7%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.45–1.05%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.4%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · Retinyl palmitate, Tocopherol + 2 more
Moderate evidence

This product contains retinyl palmitate. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~1.9–2.8%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.45–1.05%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.4%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.3–0.75%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Retinyl palmitate, Rosa damascena extract + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~1.9–2.8%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~1.4–2.1%est.
Rosa damascena extractOil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.High~0.5–1.1%est.
Calendula officinalis flower extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.9%est.
Aesculus hippocastanum extractA plant extract. Benefits of topical application are not confirmedHigh~0.2–0.8%est.
Citrus aurantifolia oil—High~0.15–0.65%est.
Mentha piperita oilUsed as a fragrance and can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.3%est.
Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~5.7–8.6%est.
Vitis vinifera seed oilA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~4.2–6.4%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~3.4–5.2%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~1–1.5%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.4–1%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.45–1.05%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.3–0.75%est.
Aloe barbadensis extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.3–0.7%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.1–0.45%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.45–1.05%est.
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Alternatives
The closest match we found
Miss Flower & Mr. Honey Lip Balm
Banila Co Miss Flower & Mr. Honey Lip Balm
Closest match51% match
View all alternatives

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Isododecane~23–34%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture

More about Isododecane
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~5.7–8.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
C12-15 alkyl benzoate~5.1–7.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate
Vitis vinifera seed oil~4.2–6.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties

More about Vitis vinifera seed oil
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~3.4–5.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Ruscus aculeatus root extract~2.2–3.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ruscus aculeatus root extract
Retinyl palmitate~1.9–2.8%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishEvens skin toneAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Propylene glycol~1.4–2.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Panthenol~1.2–1.7%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~1–1.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Hydrolyzed yeast protein~0.6–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hydrolyzed yeast protein
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.4–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Rosa damascena extract~0.5–1.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract
Cocos nucifera oil~0.45–1.05%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil
Centella asiatica extract~0.45–1.05%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Calendula officinalis flower extract~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating

More about Calendula officinalis flower extract
Butyrospermum parkii nut extract~0.45–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Butyrospermum parkii nut extract
Beeswax~0.45–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Beeswax
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Elaeis guineensis extract~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Elaeis guineensis extract
Aloe barbadensis extract~0.3–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis extract
Aloe vera leaf extract~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Aloe vera leaf extract
Aesculus hippocastanum extract~0.2–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract. Benefits of topical application are not confirmed

More about Aesculus hippocastanum extract
Citrus aurantifolia oil~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantifolia oil
Tocopheryl acetate~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Tocopherol~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Mentha piperita oil~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance and can be irritating

More about Mentha piperita oil
Citrus limon peel oil~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil
Ingredient list view

Isododecane, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Vitis vinifera seed oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Ruscus aculeatus root extract, Retinyl palmitate, Propylene glycol, Panthenol, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Hydrolyzed yeast protein, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Rosa damascena extract, Cocos nucifera oil, Centella asiatica extract, Calendula officinalis flower extract, Butyrospermum parkii nut extract, Beeswax, Ascorbyl palmitate, Elaeis guineensis extract, Aloe barbadensis extract, Aloe vera leaf extract, Aesculus hippocastanum extract, Citrus aurantifolia oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Tocopherol, Mentha piperita oil, Citrus limon peel oil

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Baxter of CaliforniaHydro Salve Lip BalmYOUR PRODUCTBanila CoMiss Flower & Mr. Honey Lip Balm
Match—51%
Price——
Shared key ingredients—4 of 8
Key difference—Madecassoside
Irritancy High Medium
Drying alcohol——
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Product summary

"Baxter of California - Hydro Salve Lip Balm" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Humectants in this product (panthenol and aloe barbadensis extract) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Vitis vinifera seed oil, beeswax, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cocos nucifera oil and simmondsia chinensis seed oil in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • it includes a form of retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 1.90% - 2.80%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
  • This formulation also uses an effective concentration of panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) - about 1.20% - 1.70%. Panthenol helps strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and reduce inflammation in skin.

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of it to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 25.00A$ in Australia and for 10.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 20 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  4. 4
    Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
  5. 5
    Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  6. 6
    Fatty acids profile of oil from nine varieties of Macadamia nuttandfonline.com
Baxter of California Hydro Salve Lip Balm
Baxter of CaliforniaHydro Salve Lip Balm
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Find on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.