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Avène Hydrance Optimale - Aqua cream-in-gel
Avène

Avène Hydrance Optimale - Aqua cream-in-gel

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
Squalane, Sodium hyaluronate + 16 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“Hydrance Optimale , Aqua cream-in-gel”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: betaine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, squalane.

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.8–3.5%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
TriethylhexanoinKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~4.5–5.5%
Sodium chondroitin sulfateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighIs naturally present in skin. Helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.2–0.35%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.3–2.8%
BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~1.4–1.7%
Cucurbita pepo seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.65–0.95%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.1–1.3%
Cetyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability~1.2–1.5%
Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~0.5–0.75%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.75–1.15%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~6.4–7.8%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.4–0.6%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.2–0.4%
Persea gratissima oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~0.35–0.6%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.7–1.1%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.15%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Parfum, Myrtus communis leaf extract
Medium risk
We flagged 10 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.55–0.85%est.
Myrtus communis leaf extractA plant extract that contains an essential oil and often used for its fragrance. Can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial and anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
TriethylhexanoinHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~4.5–5.5%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.95–1.15%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.7–1.1%est.
Hydrogenated coco-glyceridesHelps oil and water mix together while creating a nice finish on the skinMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~0.5–0.75%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Butylene glycol~6.4–7.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Triethylhexanoin~4.5–5.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Triethylhexanoin
Propanediol~3.4–4.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Squalane~2.8–3.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Glycerin~2.3–2.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Polyglyceryl-10 myristate~1.9–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Polyglyceryl-10 myristate
Water~1.5–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Betaine~1.4–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Cetyl palmitate~1.2–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability

More about Cetyl palmitate
Dimethicone~1.1–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.95–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Behenyl alcohol~0.75–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.7–1.1%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Carbomer~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Cucurbita pepo seed oil~0.65–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Cucurbita pepo seed oil
Parfum~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Glyceryl stearate se~0.5–0.75%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Hydrogenated coco-glycerides~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps oil and water mix together while creating a nice finish on the skin

More about Hydrogenated coco-glycerides
Lecithin~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Myrtus communis leaf extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that contains an essential oil and often used for its fragrance. Can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial and anti-oxidant properties

More about Myrtus communis leaf extract
Pentylene glycol~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Persea gratissima oil~0.35–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Poloxamer 188~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Poloxamer 188
Potassium hydroxide~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide
Propylene glycol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Sodium chondroitin sulfate~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Is naturally present in skin. Helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium chondroitin sulfate
Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate
Sorbitan stearate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate
Tocopherol~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Tocopheryl glucoside~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Antioxidant that helps stabilize product formulations and, if used in higher concentration, might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Tocopheryl glucoside
Ingredient list view

Water, Butylene glycol, Triethylhexanoin, Propanediol, Squalane, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 myristate, Water, Betaine, Cetyl palmitate, Dimethicone, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Behenyl alcohol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Carbomer, Cucurbita pepo seed oil, Parfum, Glyceryl stearate se, Hydrogenated coco-glycerides, Lecithin, Myrtus communis leaf extract, Pentylene glycol, Persea gratissima oil, Phenoxyethanol, Poloxamer 188, Potassium hydroxide, Propylene glycol, Sodium chondroitin sulfate, Sodium hyaluronate, Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, Sorbitan stearate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl glucoside

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 15 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Amended Safety Assessment of Triglycerides as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  2. 2
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  4. 4
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  5. 5
    Antioxidant Activity of Myrtus communis L. and Myrtus nivellei Batt. & Trab. Extracts: A Brief Reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Antimicrobial and antioxidative activity of extracts and essential oils of Myrtus communis L.sciencedirect.com
Avène Hydrance Optimale - Aqua cream-in-gel
AvèneHydrance Optimale - Aqua cream-in-gel
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