A'PIEU

A'PIEU Fusidium Trouble Calming Cream

Name: A'PIEU - Fusidium Trouble Calming Cream
Brand: A'PIEU

Efficacy50/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

Panthenol, Ectoin + 17 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Blends with Ectoin to moisturize, Baikal Skullcap Extract to provide care for oily skin, Licorice Root Extract to balance oil and water level, Purslane Extract and Centella Asiatica Extract to calm sensitive skin.”

Source: Yesstyle

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: diglycerin, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethiconol, vinyl dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

EctoinKey activeEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.1–0.2%

Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymerKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistency~0.15–0.3%

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.5–0.8%

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.95–1.2%

DiglycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~2.3–2.8%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–5.1%

DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.25–0.5%

Vinyl dimethiconeKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA type of silicone that helps to create a nice product texture and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Diisostearyl malateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3.1–3.7%

Caprylyl methiconeEffect: LowA type of silicone that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin~0.25–0.45%

Dicaprylyl ether· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients~0.3–0.55%

Hydrogenated polydecene· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~1.9–2.3%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~1.3–1.5%

Portulaca oleracea extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%

Scutellaria baicalensis root extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties~0.55–0.85%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.5–0.8%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.2–0.35%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.15%

Exfoliation

No ingredient credited for this claim

No evidence

What the product description says

“Helps to control excess sebum production and exfoliates skin with Anti-Sebum P , PHA and LHA.”

Source: Yesstyle

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · Centella asiatica extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract + 1 more

Moderate evidence

This product contains centella asiatica extract. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.5–0.8%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Centella asiatica extract + 3 more

Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (camellia sinensis leaf extract, centella asiatica extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.5–0.8%

Portulaca oleracea extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%

Scutellaria baicalensis root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties~0.55–0.85%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.15%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

4 strong irritants: Lavandula angustifolia extract, Origanum vulgare flower/leaf/stem extract + 2 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Scutellaria baicalensis root extractA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant propertiesHigh~0.55–0.85%est.

Lavandula angustifolia extractUsed for fragrance and contains volatile compounds that can irritate the skinHigh~0.45–0.65%est.

Origanum vulgare flower/leaf/stem extract—High~0.4–0.65%est.

Rosmarinus officinalis extract—High~0.4–0.6%est.

Thymus vulgaris extract—High~0.3–0.55%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.7–1.1%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~1.3–1.5%est.

Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extractLicorice root extract. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentationMedium~0.55–0.85%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.5–0.8%est.

Portulaca oleracea extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Diisostearyl malateHelps to soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymerHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistencyMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinateUsed to improve stability of the formulationMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Comedogenic

Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients

None flagged

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Alternatives

Cheaper, or higher on efficacy

Anua Heartleaf 70% Soothing Cream

Higher efficacy · 100/10066% match

$24.43

ROUND LAB Mugwort Calming Cream YS

Higher efficacy · 100/10065% match

$21.75

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Fusidium coccineum ferment filtrate~5.7–6.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Fusidium coccineum ferment filtrate

Glycerin~4.2–5.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Butylene glycol~3.1–3.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Diglycerin~2.3–2.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Diglycerin

Hydrogenated polydecene~1.9–2.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated polydecene

Isotridecyl isononanoate~1.6–2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Isotridecyl isononanoate

1,2-hexanediol~0.7–1.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Pentylene glycol~1.3–1.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Panthenol~0.95–1.2%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Scutellaria baicalensis root extract~0.55–0.85%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

AntibacterialAnti-oxidationMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties

More about Scutellaria baicalensis root extract

Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extract~0.55–0.85%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin tone

Licorice root extract. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation

More about Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extract

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.5–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Centella asiatica extract~0.5–0.8%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract

Lavandula angustifolia extract~0.45–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used for fragrance and contains volatile compounds that can irritate the skin

More about Lavandula angustifolia extract

Origanum vulgare flower/leaf/stem extract~0.4–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Origanum vulgare flower/leaf/stem extract

Rosmarinus officinalis extract~0.4–0.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Rosmarinus officinalis extract

Thymus vulgaris extract~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Thymus vulgaris extract

Portulaca oleracea extract~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Portulaca oleracea extract

Diisostearyl malate~0.3–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Diisostearyl malate

Dicaprylyl ether~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients

More about Dicaprylyl ether

Vinyl dimethicone~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A type of silicone that helps to create a nice product texture and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Vinyl dimethicone

Caprylyl methicone~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A type of silicone that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin

More about Caprylyl methicone

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Dimethiconol~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol

Tromethamine~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate

Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer~0.15–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistency

More about Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to improve stability of the formulation

More about Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate

Ectoin~0.1–0.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Ectoin

Tocopherol~0.1–0.15%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Xanthan gum~0.05–0.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Ingredient list view

Water, Fusidium coccineum ferment filtrate, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Diglycerin, Hydrogenated polydecene, Isotridecyl isononanoate, 1,2-hexanediol, Pentylene glycol, Panthenol, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Centella asiatica extract, Lavandula angustifolia extract, Origanum vulgare flower/leaf/stem extract, Rosmarinus officinalis extract, Thymus vulgaris extract, Portulaca oleracea extract, Diisostearyl malate, Dicaprylyl ether, Vinyl dimethicone, Caprylyl methicone, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Tromethamine, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, Ectoin, Tocopherol, Xanthan gum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	A'PIEUFusidium Trouble Calming CreamYOUR PRODUCT	AnuaHeartleaf 70% Soothing Cream	ROUND LABMugwort Calming Cream YS	SKIN&LABMedicica Calming Cream
Match	—	66%	65%	65%
Price	$11.12	$24.43+$13.31	$21.75+$10.63	$18.00+$6.88
Shared key ingredients	—	7 of 10	6 of 10	6 of 10
Key difference	—	Niacinamide	Madecassoside	Madecassoside
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"A'PIEU - Fusidium Trouble Calming Cream" is effective for: Moisturizing

This moisturizer could be helpful for: Anti-aging, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

An effective concentration of Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) - about 0.95% - 1.20%. Panthenol helps strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and reduce inflammation in skin.