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Aesop Cedar & Citrus Lip Salve
Aesop

Aesop Cedar & Citrus Lip Salve

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Nourishing formulation offering exceptional moisturisation for dry or chapped lips; contains a blend of vegetable-derived emollients to smooth and soften.”
Source: SpaceNK

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, ricinus communis seed oil.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~3.8–5.8%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.6–6.9%
Ricinus communis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~8.3–12.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium dulcis oil, Citrus grandis peel oil + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 6 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus aurantium dulcis oilUsed as a fragrance. It can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~0.2–0.75%est.
Citrus grandis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearateUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~23–35%est.
Ricinus communis seed oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~8.3–12.4%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~3.8–5.8%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate~23–35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate
Ricinus communis seed oil~8.3–12.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Ricinus communis seed oil
Glycerin~4.6–6.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~3.8–5.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Punica granatum sterols
Not recognized
Water~2.6–3.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Sucrose laurate~2.2–3.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Sucrose laurate
Sucrose stearate~1.7–2.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sucrose stearate
Cedrus atlantica bark oil~0.8–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cedrus atlantica bark oil
Sucrose palmitate~0.95–1.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Sucrose palmitate
Citrus aurantium dulcis oil~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. It can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis oil
Citrus grandis peel oil~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus grandis peel oil
Limonene~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Ingredient list view

Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, Ricinus communis seed oil, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Unknown, Water, Sucrose laurate, Sucrose stearate, Cedrus atlantica bark oil, Sucrose palmitate, Citrus aurantium dulcis oil, Citrus grandis peel oil, Limonene

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$19.00
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 8 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetraesters as Used in Cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Final report on the safety assessment of Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate SE, Ricinoleic Acid, Potassium Ricinoleate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Zinc Ricinoleate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Ethyl Ricinoleate, Glycol Ricinoleate, Isopropyl Ricinoleate, Methyl Ricinoleate, and Octyldodecyl Ricinoleatencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Castor Oil: Properties, Uses, and Optimization of Processing Parameters in Commercial Productionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
Aesop Cedar & Citrus Lip Salve
AesopCedar & Citrus Lip Salve
Buy at SpaceNK US$19.00Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at SpaceNK US$19.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.