ActionPotential ActionPotential
4 months ago

Oily-hyperpigmentation intense routine

Hey!

I'm a 32-year-old male. I started to use SPF three years ago, however, I sustain a lot of hyperpigmentation (around the eyes, similar to melasma) and broken capillaries from my younger, unprotected years. Some skin laxity can be appreciated around the lower part of the jaw, most likely due to weight loss or weight fluctuation. The 'T' areas of my face suffer from extreme oiliness, and open comedones (blackheads, especially on and around the nose). My skin is pale with a tendency for freckling and burns (Fitzpatrick type II). However, my skin appears to be quite resilient with retinoids and vitamin C.

I'm delighted with the results I'm seeing with this routine, which I have followed for the last two months. At the age of 32 with my lifestyle characteristics (high-stress job environment, tobacco vaping) some aging signs are evident for the last couple of years; this routine certainly helped reverse several dimensions of the observed aging signs. However, I still can't seem to mattify or eliminate the open comedones on my nose, despite my best efforts...

AM - Everyday
1
Fulvic Acid Brightening Cleanser The INKEY List CA - Fulvic Acid Brightening Cleanser
2
Tranexamic Topical Acid 5% Naturium - Tranexamic Topical Acid 5%
3
Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG The Ordinary - Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG
4
Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% The Ordinary - Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
5
Capital Soleil Mattifying 3-in-1 Cream SPF50+ Vichy - Capital Soleil Mattifying 3-in-1 Cream SPF50+
PM - Everyday
1
Fulvic Acid Brightening Cleanser The INKEY List CA - Fulvic Acid Brightening Cleanser
2
Buffet + Copper Peptides 1% The Ordinary - Buffet + Copper Peptides 1%
3
Resveratrol Serum 3% + Ferulic Acid 3% The Ordinary - Resveratrol Serum 3% + Ferulic Acid 3%
4
Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres The Ordinary - Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres
5
Cicalfate Cream Avène - Cicalfate Cream
PM - Every other day
1
Tretinoin Retin-A cream 0.05% - Tretinoin
2
Hydroquinone Brightening Créme Reviva - Hydroquinone Brightening Créme
1
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It's great that you are already getting good results from this routine, thank you very much for sharing it and adding the details! You should keep seeing improvements from it: you are using some of the most potent actives out there, and it takes consistency & time for them to work properly.

Since you are tolerating everything well, I really won't change almost anything. You could consider switching your Caffeine solution serum to a niacinamide (around 4%-10% - more proven to have an effect in suppressing hyperpigmentation compared to EGCG, and also helps control oiliness). It can be used all over the face including under eyes. Tranaxamic acid product includes around 2% niacinamide though, and this is a good starting concentration, so it's just a consideration.

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Thank you so much! I really appreciate the comment and the sharing of skincare passion.

Your suggestion makes a lot of sense. I shall try it and report :)

One thing I wish to ask is the location of the Ordinary Buffet serum. I have read that you may use Vit C + serum with copper peptide in the same routine if you buffer the skin in between the layers. Personally, I get slight goosebumps every time I use the copper serum with the Vit C, despite the fact, a layer of Resveratrol-Ferulic serum (*and sometimes an additional ceramides-oats serum, as well) separates the two...

I'm not sure what to do. I used the copper buffet for 5 months, it was my first favorite and I got such nice results with my skin-tone complexion and smoothness. I know it's a little out of place in my current age and skin type, and a more logical choice would be a strong antioxidant serum like NIOD Survival 0. What would you do?

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Ascorbic acid is the most effective topical antioxidant, so I don't think you need anything else in that department. Re interaction with Vitamin C, here is a thread on this (in comments) https://whatsinmyjar.com/posts/895/vitamin-c-and-copper-peptides-the-one-or-the-other-or-both#comment-2279

I'd try to stick to the actives that are most effective for your skin goals: clear skin + even skin tone. These would be:

  • Retinoid

  • Niacinamide

  • Azelaic acid

  • Ascorbic acid

    The first 3 work both for reducing oiliness & clogged pores + reducing pigmentation, Ascorbic acid works to reduce pigmentation + reduces photo damage more generally as an anti-oxidant. Everything else could be a nice addition, but it won't impact the results dramatically. So I'd let some of those other great actives go with a peace of mind, knowing that you already have a great regimen. So I'd think about Tranexamic acid, Copper peptide, Caffeine, Resveratrol as optional. They are nice supporting guys, but don't let them take away your focus from the main actives. You might even consider switching to the "plain" Buffet serum (without Copper Peptide) not to have the headache of combining it with Vit C (and then you can also let go of the Resveratrol "buffering"). The "plain" Buffet version contains a peptide cocktail that helps to support your skin barrier through moisturization - hence the smoothness results.

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Absolutely on point.

Thank you so much Maria for the work on this wonderful website and the fantastic help!

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Id say consider skin cycling. Youtube has a bunch of great resources from dermatologists on how to start.

4 night cycle:

  1. Use Cerave Acne Treatment Gel as Exfoliant night. This will help with hyperpigmentation and pores and acne.

  2. Use your Tretinoin as Retinoid Night

  3. Focus on hydration

  4. focus on hydration

During the day keep the routine consistent:

Cleanse, vitamin C serum , Moisturizer with niacimide for oil control (like cerave PM), then Sunscnreen

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Nice routine! I'm pretty sure Ferulic Acid and Azelaic Acid can make the peptide serum ineffective. Maybe move the peptide serum to the day and use Azelaic Acid only at night.

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I'm also not sure if tranexamic acid also reduces the effectiveness of Copper Peptides, so maybe move it to nighttime as well. You could use a Vitamin C derivative with Copper Peptides in the morning instead, which would also brighten and act as an antioxidant. The Ordinary has several.

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