Emmeke Emmeke
2 weeks ago

Local skin irritation every now and then

I am living in a climate with hot summer weather, a lot of sun and near to the sea. A month ago I switched to this routine, but I started to notice that when I apply the Umbra sunscreen (or at least I think that is the trigger) my face starts to feel irritated and slightly burning, especially on my forehead and around/under my nose. I don’t know if my new routine involves too many products that can cause sensitivity or that it is the sunscreen of which I though it was a safe one to use. I top my evening routine also with 100% organic rose hip seed oil from the ordinary.

AM - Everyday
1
Hydrating Facial Cleanser CeraVe - Hydrating Facial Cleanser
2
C-Firma™ Fresh Day Serum Drunk Elephant - C-Firma™ Fresh Day Serum
3
Hyalu B5 Hyaluronic Serum La Roche-Posay - Hyalu B5 Hyaluronic Serum
4
Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 Paula's Choice - Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50
AM - Twice a week
1
Umbra Sheer Physical Daily Defence SPF 30 Drunk Elephant - Umbra Sheer Physical Daily Defence SPF 30
PM - Everyday
1
Hyalu B5 Hyaluronic Serum La Roche-Posay - Hyalu B5 Hyaluronic Serum
2
Rosehip Cleansing Oil Q+A - Rosehip Cleansing Oil
3
RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment with 5% Alpha Hydroxy Acid Paula's Choice - RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment with 5% Alpha Hydroxy Acid
4
Lala Retro Whipped Moisturizer with Ceramides Drunk Elephant - Lala Retro Whipped Moisturizer with Ceramides
PM - Every other day
1
Resist Anti-Aging Intensive Wrinkle-Repair Retinol Serum Full size Paula's Choice - Resist Anti-Aging Intensive Wrinkle-Repair Retinol Serum Full size
2
Redermic R Treatment La Roche-Posay - Redermic R Treatment
1
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I think you might be over-exfoliating: the Paula's Choice 5% AHA is actually stronger than 5% total acids, it also contains about 1.5% salicylic acid (and then +2% salicylic every other day). Since you feel The Umbra sunscreen is the trigger, I'd pause it for now, and also stop exfoliating fully for 1-2 weeks. I'd also advice to pause Teh DE C-Firma for this period. I think that most likely the products in your routine are fine, but the over-exfoliation might have made your skin very reactive. For example, usually safe pentylene glycol (at about 4% concentration in the Umbra sunscreen) can enhance penetration of other ingredients into the skin, especially if the skin top layer is thin, and that could trigger the reaction.

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Thank you so much for this advice! It makes sense now that you told me that a few products in my routine might be too much all tiger and I understand the trigger of this reaction of my skin. This is really helpful!

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I hope it will help - please keep us posted if your skin got better with this change!

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And I've just double-checked the ingredients in the La Roche Posay hyaluronic acid serum, I'd stop this one too - because of the parfum and glycols (enhance penetration) as well

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I forgot to ask: for now I stop the exfoliating products for some time. When my skin has calmed down, what would be a good addition to my routine when I want to add an exfoliating product?

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You could use the same products from Paula's Choice, but just less frequently, for example, starting with either AHA of the BHA one once a week. Later, if your skin feels well, you could use one on Wednesday, for example, and the other one on Sunday.

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One week later and my skin is already so much happier (and me too)! No exfoliating for one week now and I notice a big difference. Thank you again for your good advice! I started to use the Umbra again yesterday and no problems there. I started again with the DE C-Firma too, but will leave the La Roche Posay hyaluronic acid serum out of my routine. I think the perfume is bothering too much. Paula's Choice 5% AHA only once a week starting from the weekend. I saw Vichy offers a serum with hyaluronic acid and niacinamide (Vichy Mineral 89 Probiotic Fraction), can that be a good substitute for the LRP serum I have skipped or do you suggest something else? I'm in my fifties, do not have that much visible wrinkles yet. My skin can feel dry very quickly.

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One week later and my skin is already much happier (and me too)! No exfoliating for one week now and I notice a big difference. Thank you again! I started to use the Umbra again a few days ago and no problems there. I started again with the DE C-Firma too, but I feel my skin tends to feel sticky all day, like it doesnt sink in that well. Today I didn't use it and my skin feels smoother without stickyness. Is there another product maybe that contains vitamin C/Ferulic acid/vitamin E that could be better for my skin? I also would like to add niacinamide to my routine too, but I am a bit puzzled and don't want to overload my skin/routine again. I have left the La Roche Posay hyaluronic acid serum out of my routine. I think the perfume is bothering too much. Paula's Choice 5% AHA only once a week starting from the weekend, and the LRP redermic R once a week but in the middle of the week. I'm in my fifties, do not have that much visible wrinkles yet. My skin can feel dry very quickly.

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