The science behind niacinamide

Niacinamide is a versatile and powerful ingredient that addresses various skin issues, from fine lines and wrinkles to excess oil production and uneven skin tone. In this blog post, we'll delve into the science behind niacinamide and how it can work for your skin goals.

Niacinamide helps produce essential molecules called NAD(H) and NADP(H), which assist enzymes in carrying out chemical reactions vital to maintaining healthy skin. These molecules contribute to energy production, barrier reinforcement, and firming support, which results in a more youthful, glowing complexion.

As we age, our skin cells experience a decline in NAD+ and NADPH levels. But topical niacinamide can penetrate the skin's surface and directly target specific areas, offering a wide range of skincare benefits.

• Reduced hyperpigmentation: Niacinamide has been shown to inhibit melanosome transfer. This is how It helps fade dark spots for a more even complexion.

• Decreased redness: It soothes irritated skin and calms inflammation. It is used in treatment of rosacea.

• Brighter skin: It combats dullness and yellowing (sallowness)

• Oil control: It regulates sebum production for a balanced, non-shiny look.

• Minimized pores: It refines pore size for a smoother skin appearance.

• Improved texture: It enhances the overall surface texture of the skin.

• Fewer fine lines and wrinkles and enhancing elasticity: It helps diminish visible signs of aging.

Beyond these cosmetic benefits, niacinamide also improves skin health by:

• Boosting hydration: It helps moisturize the skin and lock in hydration.

• Strengthening the skin barrier: It reinforces the skin's natural protective layer.

Recent research has uncovered even more skin benefits associated with niacinamide, such as promoting skin structure, elasticity, wound healing, and pigmentation, but more research is needed to confirm these additional benefits.

A fascinating discovery is niacinamide's ability to protect against UV-induced skin damage. It has been shown to reduce the production of harmful molecules in skin cells exposed to UVB radiation and maintain cellular structures' overall integrity. This protection extends to both topical and oral applications.

Furthermore, studies on circadian rhythm regulation suggest niacinamide's critical role in connecting cellular metabolism with regulatory processes. This connection may contribute to strengthening the skin barrier.

Experts hypothesize that niacinamide's impact on cellular energy metabolism could be the secret behind its multitude of skin benefits. Whatever the case may be, niacinamide remains a powerful ally for radiant, healthy skin.

Combining niacinamide with other skincare actives can lead to even greater skin benefits. Clinical studies show that partnering niacinamide with specific ingredients can amplify their effects.

For example, niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, making it an excellent companion for topical retinoids. Applying niacinamide before or alongside retinoids can enhance skin tolerance, minimize irritation, and promote the repair of photodamaged skin.

Furthermore, niacinamide pairs well with other skincare ingredients, such as azelaic acid, exfoliating acids (salicylic and glycolic), and bakuchiol. However, it's crucial not to mix niacinamide directly with ascorbic acid, as this could compromise their effectiveness. Keep in mind that mixing different skincare formulations is generally not recommended.

Regarding the application order, there isn't much difference if you apply a niacinamide product before or after other skincare actives. Just allow the first product to absorb into your skin before applying the next one. It might be helpful to layer products based on their texture, starting with more watery products (toners, light serums) and finishing with heavier ones (oils, moisturizers).

Topical niacinamide is generally well-tolerated, even at higher concentrations up to 5%. However, it's important to note that, in rare cases, some individuals may experience mild skin irritation. As with any skincare product, it's essential to monitor your skin's reaction and adjust usage accordingly. Skincare products with 10-20% niacinamide concentrations that have recently gained popularity are more likely to cause an irritant reaction.

Topical niacinamide has been studied for its effectiveness in reducing hyperpigmentation and signs of aging. Multiple clinical trials have investigated this claim with different study formats and number of subjects. The evidence suggests that topical niacinamide may be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, particularly when used in higher concentrations (5% or greater) and over an extended period of time. In addition, it may be effective in reducing fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation spots, and skin sallowness.

One study showed that a test moisturizer containing 5% niacinamide reduced hyperpigmentation after four or eight weeks of use. In another study, researchers compared effect of a vehicle moisturizer, a vehicle moistruizer with sunscreen SPF15 and sunscreen moisturizer containing 2% niacinamide. After 4 weeks, the researchers found that the anti-pigmentation results were strongest in the group that used a sunscreen with niacinamide, followed by the control sunscreen moisturizer with SPF 15, and the vehicle moisturizer. niacinamide alone or in combination with other ingredients reduced pore, wrinkle, unevenness, erythema, and spot and increased moisture levels.

In terms of anti-aging, one study found that a test moisturizer containing 5% niacinamide improved fine lines/wrinkles, hyperpigmentation spots, texture, red blotchiness, and skin yellowing (sallowness) compared to the control in endpoints. Another study found that the test product containing 5% niacinamide reduced fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness (yellowing), and increased elasticity. A cosmetic regimen containing 5% niacinamide and peptides in a daytime lotion with SPF 30, a night cream containing niacinamide and peptides, and a wrinkle treatment containing niacinamide, peptides, and 0.3% retinyl propionate and 0.02% tretinoin in an emollient base was also found to improve wrinkle appearance.

Overall, topical niacinamide is an effective ingredient for reducing hyperpigmentation and signs of aging, particularly when used in 2-5% concentrations and over an extended period of time.

In conclusion, including niacinamide into your skincare routine can help address a variety of skin concerns, such as hyperpigmentation, redness, excess oil, enlarged pores, and visible signs of aging. Remember, consistency is key to achieving the best results, so make it a regular part of your daily regimen. While niacinamide is generally well-tolerated, be cautious with high concentrations (above 5-6%), as they may increase the risk of skin irritation.

• Niacinamide: A Topical Vitamin with Wide-Ranging Skin Appearance Benefits https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/9781118384824.ch10

• Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3921/10/8/1315