What's In My Jar
The INKEY List CA 15% Vitamin C + EGF Serum
The INKEY List CA

The INKEY List CA 15% Vitamin C + EGF Serum

Efficacy50/100IrritancyLow
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging
Ascorbyl glucoside, Oligopeptide-1
May help
What the product description says
“Epitensive™, an epidermal growth factor or EGF for short, works to soften the appearance of fine lines and promote a skin-plumping effect, providing multi-benefit action with each application.”
Source: Mankind

This product contains ascorbyl glucoside, oligopeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products15%
Oligopeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles1%
Evens skin tone
Ascorbyl glucoside
May help
What the product description says
“Brightens dull skin and evens tone without the sting - a beginner-friendly vitamin C, even for sensitive skin.”
Source: The Inkey list

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: ascorbyl glucoside.

Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products15%
Moisturizing
Oligopeptide-1, Butylene glycol
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Dewy, plump results incoming...”
Source: Cultbeauty

Does not contain good ingredients to help with moisturization.

Oligopeptide-1HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles1%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.4–2%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Ascorbyl glucoside
May help

This product contains antioxidants (ascorbyl glucoside) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products15%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 7 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.3%est.
Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium15%
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~3.6–5.4%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.55–1.3%est.
Sodium metabisulfiteA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Phytic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmeticsMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Plump Up
Trinny London Plump Up
Higher efficacy · 87/10053% match
Snail Renewal Serum
Biovene Snail Renewal Serum
Higher efficacy · 87/10052% match
View all alternatives

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Ascorbyl glucoside15%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside
Sodium hydroxide~4.8–7.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil~3.6–5.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Benzyl alcohol~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Butylene glycol~1.4–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Xanthan gum~0.95–1.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.55–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium metabisulfite~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium metabisulfite
Dehydroacetic acid~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid
Phytic acid~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics

More about Phytic acid
Oligopeptide-11%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Oligopeptide-1
Ingredient list view

Water, Ascorbyl glucoside, Sodium hydroxide, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl alcohol, Butylene glycol, Xanthan gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium metabisulfite, Dehydroacetic acid, Phytic acid, Oligopeptide-1

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Sephora
$20.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
The INKEY List CA15% Vitamin C + EGF SerumYOUR PRODUCTTrinny LondonPlump UpArenciaHolly Hissop Serum 12HUMANANOPlacen Concentrated Serum Legend
Match—53%52%52%
Price$20.00——$28.70+$8.70
Shared key ingredients—1 of 21 of 21 of 2
Key difference—Hexapeptide-9NiacinamideOligopeptide-4
Irritancy Low Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 7 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Healthncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivativesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Amended Safety Assessment of PEGylated Oils as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  4. 4
    Final report on the safety assessment of sodium sulfite, potassium sulfite, ammonium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, ammonium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite and potassium metabisulfitencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    4 Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acidjournals.sagepub.com
  6. 6
    Cosmetic and dermatologic use of alpha hydroxy acidsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
The INKEY List CA 15% Vitamin C + EGF Serum
The INKEY List CA15% Vitamin C + EGF Serum
Buy at Sephora$20.00Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Sephora$20.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.