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The Crème Shop x BT21 COOKY’S CALMING Printed Essence Sheet Mask - Infused with Bulgarian Rose Water, Glycerin, Propolis
The Crème Shop x BT21

The Crème Shop x BT21 COOKY’S CALMING Printed Essence Sheet Mask - Infused with Bulgarian Rose Water, Glycerin, Propolis

Efficacy0/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-blemish
Centella asiatica extract, Allantoin
Not delivered
What the product description says
“These ingredients are formulated to help calm redness and irritation associated with acne while fortifying skin to protect against future breakouts.”
Source: The Creme Shop

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Centella asiatica extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~1.1–1.7%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.05–0.15%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Madecassoside, Glycerin + 13 more
Works well

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, betaine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, cetearyl alcohol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: madecassoside

MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.35–0.85%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.4–6.6%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~2–3.1%
Propolis extractKey activeEffect: MediumA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating~1.4–2.1%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~1.1–1.7%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.95–1.4%
Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.55–1.3%
Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.45–1.05%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.35–0.85%
BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.3–0.75%
ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.15–0.55%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3.5–5.2%
Rosa damascena flower water· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~1.6–2.5%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.1–0.5%
AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.05–0.15%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Centella asiatica extract, Asiaticoside + 3 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - centella asiatica extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~1.1–1.7%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.95–1.4%
MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.35–0.85%
Rosa damascena flower waterEffect: LowUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~1.6–2.5%
Propolis extractEffect: LowA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating~1.4–2.1%
Anti-aging
Side benefit · Centella asiatica extract, Asiaticoside + 1 more
May help

This product contains asiaticoside, centella asiatica extract, madecassoside. There is some human evidence that these ingredients help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin elasticity and firmness, though it is smaller or less consistent than the evidence for the best anti-aging ingredients.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~1.1–1.7%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.95–1.4%
MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.35–0.85%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Rosa damascena flower water, Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosa damascena flower waterUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritatingHigh~1.6–2.5%est.
Propolis extractA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritatingHigh~1.4–2.1%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.01–0.05%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~2–3%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~1.1–1.7%est.
AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.95–1.4%est.
Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.55–1.3%est.
Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.45–1.05%est.
MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.35–0.85%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.1–0.5%est.
Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholineHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.05–0.2%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.15%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.35–0.85%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.4–6.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butylene glycol~3.5–5.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
1,2-hexanediol~2–3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Sodium hyaluronate~2–3.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Rosa damascena flower water~1.6–2.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower water
Propolis extract~1.4–2.1%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

A complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating

More about Propolis extract
Centella asiatica extract~1.1–1.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Asiaticoside~0.95–1.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside
Madecassic acid~0.55–1.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid
Asiatic acid~0.45–1.05%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid
Madecassoside~0.35–0.85%
Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside
Betaine~0.3–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Cetearyl alcohol~0.35–0.85%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Sucrose stearate~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sucrose stearate
Arginine~0.15–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine
Carbomer~0.1–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.1–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oil~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oil
Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine
Hydroxyacetophenone~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone
Allantoin~0.05–0.15%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-blemishReduces rednessExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Disodium edta~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Parfum~0.01–0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Sodium hyaluronate, Rosa damascena flower water, Propolis extract, Centella asiatica extract, Asiaticoside, Madecassic acid, Asiatic acid, Madecassoside, Betaine, Cetearyl alcohol, Sucrose stearate, Arginine, Carbomer, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oil, Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Allantoin, Disodium edta, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum

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The Creme Shop
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 22 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
  5. 5
    Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts ec.europa.eu
  6. 6
    Propolis: A Wonder Bees Product and Its Pharmacological Potentialsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
The Crème Shop x BT21 COOKY’S CALMING Printed Essence Sheet Mask - Infused with Bulgarian Rose Water, Glycerin, Propolis
The Crème Shop x BT21COOKY’S CALMING Printed Essence Sheet Mask - Infused with Bulgarian Rose Water, Glycerin, Propolis
Buy at The Creme Shop$4.00Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at The Creme Shop$4.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.