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Dermalogica Age Smart Renewal Lip Complex
Dermalogica

Dermalogica Age Smart Renewal Lip Complex

Efficacy87/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
Arginine/lysine polypeptide, Palmitoyl oligopeptide + 15 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Dermalogica's Renewal Lip Complex is an AGE-fighting daily lip treatment that is smoothing and moisturising.”
Source: Allbeauty

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, butyrospermum parkii butter.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: arginine/lysine polypeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide

Triticum vulgare germ oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).~0.85–1.25%
Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2Key active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from its surface~23–34%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.5–1.2%
Synthetic beeswaxKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~4.5–6.8%
Theobroma cacao seed butterKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~1.9–2.9%
Arginine/lysine polypeptideHeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~1.3–1.9%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.8–1.25%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.55–1.3%
Oryza sativa bran oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.95–1.4%
Palmitoyl oligopeptideHeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~1.1–1.7%
Persea gratissima oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~1.1–1.6%
Ricinus communis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~5–7.4%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.5–1.2%
Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~0.45–1%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.7%
Tribehenin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.85%
Di-c12-15 alkyl fumarate· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~3.2–4.8%
Anti-aging
Arginine/lysine polypeptide, Palmitoyl oligopeptide + 1 more
Moderate evidence
What the product description says
“A patented polypeptide restores delicate tissue, minimises contour lines and helps prevent the signs of ageing.”
Source: Allbeauty

This product contains arginine/lysine polypeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Arginine/lysine polypeptideKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~1.3–1.9%
Palmitoyl oligopeptideKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~1.1–1.7%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.8–1.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 8 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Ricinus communis seed oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~5–7.4%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~3.9–5.8%est.
Di-c12-15 alkyl fumarateUsed to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product textureMedium~3.2–4.8%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~1.1–1.6%est.
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
Vp/eicosene copolymerUsed to improve the product adherence to the skin, for example, to pro-long the protective effect of sunscreens. Can be irritating to very sensitive skinMedium~0.15–0.6%est.
Comedogenic
4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
4 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Theobroma cacao seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect3/5~1.9–2.9%est.
Triticum vulgare germ oilA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).3/5~0.85–1.25%est.
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.8–1.25%est.
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~0.45–1%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2~23–34%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from its surface

More about Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2
Ricinus communis seed oil~5–7.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Ricinus communis seed oil
Synthetic beeswax~4.5–6.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Synthetic beeswax
Tocopheryl acetate~3.9–5.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Di-c12-15 alkyl fumarate~3.2–4.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Di-c12-15 alkyl fumarate
Euphorbia cerifera wax~2.8–4.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Euphorbia cerifera wax
Theobroma cacao seed butter~1.9–2.9%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-dandruff

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Theobroma cacao seed butter
Lauryl lactate~1.6–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Lauryl lactate
Arginine/lysine polypeptide~1.3–1.9%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Arginine/lysine polypeptide
Palmitoyl oligopeptide~1.1–1.7%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingCleansingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl oligopeptide
Persea gratissima oil~1.1–1.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Oryza sativa bran oil~0.95–1.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Oryza sativa bran oil
Triticum vulgare germ oil~0.85–1.25%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).

More about Triticum vulgare germ oil
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.8–1.25%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Sodium hyaluronate~0.5–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~0.55–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil
Palm oil aminopropanediol amides/esters~0.55–1.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Palm oil aminopropanediol amides/esters
Squalane~0.5–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Ethylhexyl palmitate~0.45–1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate
Silica dimethyl silylate~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Silica dimethyl silylate
Butylene glycol~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Tribehenin~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Tribehenin
Sorbitan isostearate~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate
Stevioside~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Stevioside
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil
Vp/eicosene copolymer~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

Used to improve the product adherence to the skin, for example, to pro-long the protective effect of sunscreens. Can be irritating to very sensitive skin

More about Vp/eicosene copolymer
Benzyl alcohol~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Parfum~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, Ricinus communis seed oil, Synthetic beeswax, Tocopheryl acetate, Di-c12-15 alkyl fumarate, Euphorbia cerifera wax, Theobroma cacao seed butter, Lauryl lactate, Arginine/lysine polypeptide, Palmitoyl oligopeptide, Persea gratissima oil, Oryza sativa bran oil, Triticum vulgare germ oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Sodium hyaluronate, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Palm oil aminopropanediol amides/esters, Squalane, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Silica dimethyl silylate, Butylene glycol, Tribehenin, Sorbitan isostearate, Stevioside, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Vp/eicosene copolymer, Benzyl alcohol, Parfum

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 10 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Safety assessment of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-1 as used in cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Final report on the safety assessment of Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate SE, Ricinoleic Acid, Potassium Ricinoleate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Zinc Ricinoleate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Ethyl Ricinoleate, Glycol Ricinoleate, Isopropyl Ricinoleate, Methyl Ricinoleate, and Octyldodecyl Ricinoleatencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Castor Oil: Properties, Uses, and Optimization of Processing Parameters in Commercial Productionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Cocoa polyphenols and their influence on parameters involved in ex vivo skin restructuringncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Study on the Composition of Rice Bran Oil and Its Higher Free Fatty Acids Valuelink.springer.com
Dermalogica Age Smart Renewal Lip Complex
DermalogicaAge Smart Renewal Lip Complex
Buy at Dermstore$33.00Amazon

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Buy at Dermstore$33.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.