Derm Institute Youth Alchemy Repairing Oil
- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
- acetyl tetrapeptide-17
- retinyl palmitate
- caprylic/capric triglyceride
- corallina officinalis extract
- +13 more

Price comparison
Product summary
Based on the ingredients included, "Derm Institute - Youth Alchemy Repairing Oil" works well for moisturizing the skin. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Derm Institute - Youth Alchemy Repairing Oil ticks this box. Algae extract in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (algae extract, helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, limnanthes alba seed oil, phytosterols and phytosteryl macadamiate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- this moisturizer includes a form of retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.15% - 0.55%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
- We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (acetyl tetrapeptide-17 0.10% - 0.45%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Irritation risk
There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails from 220.00$ up to 240.00$ in the United States and from 200.00£ up to 303.00£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Can the product deliver on its promises?
Promise
What does the product description say?WIMJ summary for anti-aging
This product contains acetyl tetrapeptide-17. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
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MEDIUM
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LOW
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LOW
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Promise
What does the product description say?WIMJ summary for moisturizing
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
algae extract.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl tetrapeptide-17
Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
---|---|---|---|
HIGH | |||
HIGH | |||
HIGH |
WIMJ summary for anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
---|---|---|---|
HIGH | |||
LOW
| |||
LOW
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How honest is this product?
Promise | Can it deliver? |
---|---|
Moisturizing | |
Anti-aging |
Potential irritants

Ingredient | Irritancy | Skin Benefit |
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caprylic/capric triglyceride | ||
spilanthes acmella flower extract | ||
ribes nigrum seed oil |
Ingredients by volume
Ingredient | Estimated concentration |
---|---|
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
| 25% - 38% |
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
| 5.5% - 8.2% |
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin without creatng a greasy finish
| 4.5% - 6.7% |
Show more |
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Questions
Skincare resources
Scientific Sources
- Transdermal behaviour of the N-alkylamide spilanthol (affinin) from Spilanthes acmella (Compositae) extracts
- Evidence for the efficacy and safety of topical herbal drugs in dermatology: Part I: Anti-inflammatory agents
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Allergic contact dermatitis induced by rosemary leaf extract in a cleansing gel
- Safety Assessment of Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils
- Moringa oleifera seed oil: Composition, nutritional aspects and health attributes
- Moringa oleifera Seeds and Oil: Characteristics and Uses for Human Health
- Assessment report on Sambucus nigra L., fructus
- SKIN PROTECTION AGAINST SOLAR UV RADIATION BY NATURAL PLANT PRODUCTS: EXTRACTS FROM ELDER FRUIT (SAMBUCUS NIGRA L.)
- Safety Assessment of Phytosterols as Used in Cosmetics