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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, "Derm Institute - Youth Alchemy Repairing Oil" works well for moisturizing the skin. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Derm Institute - Youth Alchemy Repairing Oil ticks this box. Algae extract in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (algae extract, helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, limnanthes alba seed oil, phytosterols and phytosteryl macadamiate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer includes a form of retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.15% - 0.55%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (acetyl tetrapeptide-17 0.10% - 0.45%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 220.00$ up to 240.00$ in the United States and from 200.00£ up to 303.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Can the product deliver on its promises?

See a mistake?
Promise
What does the product description say?
"Formulated with plant-based collagen it helps to visibly plump the skin and reduce signs of ageing."
WIMJ summary for anti-aging

This product contains acetyl tetrapeptide-17. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Ingredient Effectiveness Concentration Irritancy
MEDIUM
meets threshold
LOW
meets threshold
LOW
meets threshold
See a mistake?
Promise
What does the product description say?
"A versatile product, this oil can also be mixed with moisturiser for added hydration."
WIMJ summary for moisturizing

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl tetrapeptide-17

Ingredient Effectiveness Concentration Irritancy
HIGH
meets threshold
HIGH
meets threshold
HIGH
meets threshold
See a mistake?
WIMJ summary for anti-oxidation

This product contains antioxidants (ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

How honest is this product?

Promise Can it deliver?
Moisturizing
Anti-aging
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 87/100.

Potential irritants

Ingredients by volume

Ingredient Estimated concentration
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
25% - 38%
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
5.5% - 8.2%
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin without creatng a greasy finish
4.5% - 6.7%
An emollient that helps soften the skin. It also forms a protective on its surface to reduce water loss.
3.5% - 5.2%
2.4% - 3.6%
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
2.1% - 3.2%
1.5% - 2.3%
Plant extract that might hep calm down inflammation in skin
1.3% - 1.9%
An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation
1.1% - 1.7%
An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.
0.9% - 1.35%
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing
0.5% - 1.2%
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
0.45% - 1%
Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin. Is a likely irritant
0.35% - 0.85%
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
0.35% - 0.85%
0.35% - 0.75%
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
0.4% - 0.95%
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
0.35% - 0.85%
An emollient that softens the skin
0.35% - 0.8%
A good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).
0.3% - 0.75%
A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid
0.3% - 0.7%
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
0.15% - 0.55%
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
0.15% - 0.6%
An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function
0.2% - 0.75%
A plant extract that may contain a small amount of essential oils. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin
0.15% - 0.55%
0.15% - 0.6%
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
0.2% - 0.75%
Lipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function
0.2% - 0.75%
An algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties
0.15% - 0.55%
0.15% - 0.55%
0.15% - 0.5%
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
0.1% - 0.45%
0.1% - 0.35%
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants
0.1% - 0.4%
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
0.15% - 0.55%
A mineral that is claimed to be able to support collagen product in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is missing
0.05% - 0.25%
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
0.05% - 0.15%

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Potential Irritants
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