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Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Spot Treatment
Derm Institute

Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Spot Treatment

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Evens skin tone
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Retinyl palmitate
May help
What the product description says
“Work to dramatically minimise the appearance of dark spots and discolouration with the Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Spot Treatment, a premium spot treatment with an intensive LightningCTM Complex.”
Source: SpaceNK US

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, retinyl palmitate.

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~4–6%
Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.1–0.5%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Squalene + 5 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - squalene also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateKey activeEffect: HighA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~4–6%
SqualeneKey activeEffect: MediumAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~2.4–3.7%
Ribes nigrum seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.~0.6–1.4%
Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing~0.4–0.9%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.2–0.75%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.15–0.65%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.95–1.45%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Isododecane, Caprylic/capric triglyceride + 9 more
Works

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalene.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

IsododecaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture~23–35%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~6.4–9.5%
SqualeneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~2.4–3.7%
Phytosteryl macadamiateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.9–2.9%
PhytosterolsKey active· EmollientEffect: HighLipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function~1.4–2.1%
Ribes nigrum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.~0.6–1.4%
Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiablesKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.55–1.25%
Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearateKey activeEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.4%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate· EmollientEffect: LowA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~4–6%
Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~0.95–1.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.95–1.45%
Anti-aging
Side benefit the brand mentions · Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Retinyl palmitate + 1 more
May help
What the product description says
“The 42% vitamin-based formula works effectively to tackle discolouration caused by factors such as sun damage, ageing and pregnancy.”
Source: SpaceNK

This product contains ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, retinyl palmitate. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~4–6%
Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.1–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.95–1.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Retinyl palmitate + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 9 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extractA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missingHigh~0.4–0.9%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.75%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.1–0.5%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~6.4–9.5%est.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~4–6%est.
PhytosterolsLipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier functionMedium~1.4–2.1%est.
Ribes nigrum seed oilAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.Medium~0.6–1.4%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.15–0.65%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
SqualeneAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast2/5~2.4–3.7%est.
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Booster Temps Sublime Global Well-Aging Concentrate
Qiriness Booster Temps Sublime Global Well-Aging Concentrate
Cheaper51% match
$55.77
Booster Vitamin C+3
Intraceuticals Booster Vitamin C+3
Cheaper51% match
$30.60
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Isododecane~23–35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture

More about Isododecane
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~6.4–9.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Diacetyl boldine~4.9–7.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Diacetyl boldine
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~4–6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Jojoba oil/macadamia seed oil esters~2.9–4.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Jojoba oil/macadamia seed oil esters
Squalene~2.4–3.7%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast

More about Squalene
Phytosteryl macadamiate~1.9–2.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Phytosteryl macadamiate
Phytosterols~1.4–2.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Lipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function

More about Phytosterols
Tocopherol~0.95–1.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Octyldodecanol~0.95–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol
Ribes nigrum seed oil~0.6–1.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.

More about Ribes nigrum seed oil
Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables~0.55–1.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables
Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing

More about Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Tocopheryl acetate~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Retinyl palmitate~0.1–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Salicornia herbacea extract~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Salicornia herbacea extract
Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate~0.1–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate
Parfum~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Isododecane, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Diacetyl boldine, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Jojoba oil/macadamia seed oil esters, Squalene, Phytosteryl macadamiate, Phytosterols, Tocopherol, Octyldodecanol, Ribes nigrum seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Retinyl palmitate, Salicornia herbacea extract, Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, Parfum

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SpaceNK US
$320.00 Out of stock
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Derm InstituteCellular Brightening Spot TreatmentYOUR PRODUCTMANTLETHE WOW SERUMQirinessBooster Temps Sublime Global Well-Aging ConcentrateIntraceuticalsBooster Vitamin C+3
Match—55%51%51%
Price——$55.77$30.60
Shared key ingredients—5 of 114 of 112 of 11
Key difference—Beta-SitosterolCamellia Oleifera Seed OilAscorbyl Glucoside
Irritancy High Medium High Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 14 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Assessment of penetration of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate into biological membranes by molecular dynamicssciencedirect.com
  2. 2
    Stability evaluation of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in isolation and incorporated in cosmetic formulations using thermal analysisscielo.br
  3. 3
    A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative propertiessciencedirect.com
  4. 4
    New lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), suppresses senile lentigo through controlling of melanocytes-keratinocytes interactionmorressier.com
  5. 5
    Squalene and its potential clinical useseuropepmc.org
  6. 6
    Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology mdpi.com
Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Spot Treatment
Derm InstituteCellular Brightening Spot Treatment
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