PRODUCT REVIEW
Cheaper alternatives
Burt's Bees - Natural Acne Solutions Maximum Strength Spot Treatment Cream
Price: $9.99
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What can the product work for?
Moisturizing
squalene
2.4% -
3.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
phytosterols
1.4% -
2.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Lipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function
phytosteryl macadamiate
1.9% -
2.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
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Anti-oxidation
squalene
2.4% -
3.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing
ribes nigrum seed oil
0.6% -
1.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.
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Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
It is also effective on post-acne discolouration.
retinyl palmitate
0.1% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
The 42% vitamin-based formula works effectively to tackle discolouration caused by factors such as sun damage, ageing and pregnancy.
retinyl palmitate
0.1% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
4% -
6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
tocopherol
0.95% -
1.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Work to dramatically minimise the appearance of dark spots and discolouration with the Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Spot Treatment, a premium spot treatment with an intensive LightningCTM Complex.
retinyl palmitate
0.1% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
4% -
6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
16/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Potential irritants
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-inflammatory
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing
rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-oxidation,
Antibacterial
Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating
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Comodogenic ingredients
squalene
2.4% -
3.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
Similar products & dupes
 Derm Institute - Cellular Brightening Spot Treatment | Burt's Bees - Natural Acne Solutions Maximum Strength Spot Treatment Cream | |
| Price | ||
| WIMJ similarity score |
21%
| |
| Key ingredients | Common: Other: | |
| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
|
| Potential Irritants |
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| All ingredients |
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
4% -
6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Moisturizing
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
tocopherol
0.95% -
1.45%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-aging,
Moisturizing
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
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Potential irritants
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-inflammatory
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing
rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-oxidation,
Antibacterial
Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
squalene
2.4% -
3.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
All ingredients
isododecane
23% -
35%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture
caprylic/capric triglyceride
6.4% -
9.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
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Ingredient list view
Isododecane, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Diacetyl boldine, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Jojoba oil/macadamia seed oil esters, Squalene, Phytosteryl macadamiate, Phytosterols, Tocopherol, Octyldodecanol, Ribes nigrum seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Retinyl palmitate, Salicornia herbacea extract, Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, Parfum
Sources
- Assessment of penetration of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate into biological membranes by molecular dynamics
- Stability evaluation of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in isolation and incorporated in cosmetic formulations using thermal analysis
- A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative properties
- New lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), suppresses senile lentigo through controlling of melanocytes-keratinocytes interaction
- Squalene and its potential clinical uses
- Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology
- Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by squalene and oleic acid peroxides
- Safety Assessment of Phytosterols as Used in Cosmetics
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Evidence for the efficacy and safety of topical herbal drugs in dermatology: Part I: Anti-inflammatory agents
- Allergic contact dermatitis induced by rosemary leaf extract in a cleansing gel
- Safety Assessment of Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics