Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-oxidation
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Anti-blemish
- Evens skin tone
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (squalene) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing
An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating
Moisturizing
This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalene.
Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
Lipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin
An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
An emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture
An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
The 42% vitamin-based formula works effectively to tackle discolouration caused by factors such as sun damage, ageing and pregnancy.
Source: SpaceNK
This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.
This ingredient squalene might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
It is also effective on post-acne discolouration.
Source: SpaceNK
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Work to dramatically minimise the appearance of dark spots and discolouration with the Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Spot Treatment, a premium spot treatment with an intensive LightningCTM Complex.
Source: SpaceNK
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 16/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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Key Actives
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Lipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin
Potential irritants
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing
Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
Lipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function
An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Comedogenic ingredients
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
All ingredients
An emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
Lipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation
An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing
Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Ingredient list view
Isododecane, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Diacetyl boldine, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Jojoba oil/macadamia seed oil esters, Squalene, Phytosteryl macadamiate, Phytosterols, Tocopherol, Octyldodecanol, Ribes nigrum seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Retinyl palmitate, Salicornia herbacea extract, Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, Parfum
- Assessment of penetration of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate into biological membranes by molecular dynamics
- Stability evaluation of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in isolation and incorporated in cosmetic formulations using thermal analysis
- A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative properties
- New lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), suppresses senile lentigo through controlling of melanocytes-keratinocytes interaction
- Squalene and its potential clinical uses
- Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology
- Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by squalene and oleic acid peroxides
- Safety Assessment of Phytosterols as Used in Cosmetics
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Evidence for the efficacy and safety of topical herbal drugs in dermatology: Part I: Anti-inflammatory agents
- Allergic contact dermatitis induced by rosemary leaf extract in a cleansing gel
- Safety Assessment of Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- Rosmarinus officinalis Extract Suppresses Propionibacterium acnes–Induced Inflammatory Responses